who has good cams

i run the mobil delvac, rotella breaks down to easily when mixed with diesel fuel:hehe:
 
The funny one is that just a few short years ago people paying a grand for one with a bolt on gear, now since the max spool and fletcher cams come onto the market at off the sudden those cam are now in the $500 range, the people that paid those big prices got screwed.

No different than injectors, make a stage/version whatever and sell 200 sets then every few months come out with bigger set that makes more power and do this over the course of a few years....makes for a good retirement account.

I'm done, Jim
 
Out-of Here I thought cams where hardened before they were ground not after. Re-grinds are not re-hardened after grinding, so they have been ground twice. How thick is the hardened surface after 2 grinds?
 
These cams are not hardened by any means other than the casting process. They are NOT induction heat treated. The mold is chilled, then the molten material is poured in, creating the depth of hardness. Whoever is telling these are hardened after the casting is WRONG!

They are difficult to grind, because they are hard to begin with. Trust me, unlike talking to a cam grinder we deal with the manufacturers.

Here is a link to a comparison between the stocker and ours, it is the same casting in a UGL not a regrind.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35836
 
Jim Fulmer said:
The funny one is that just a few short years ago people paying a grand for one with a bolt on gear, now since the max spool and fletcher cams come onto the market at off the sudden those cam are now in the $500 range, the people that paid those big prices got screwed.

No different than injectors, make a stage/version whatever and sell 200 sets then every few months come out with bigger set that makes more power and do this over the course of a few years....makes for a good retirement account.

I'm done, Jim
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Yep I'm one that got screwed too.. I like the F1 and all but to know what I paid then and what they cost now is sickening....
 
Yeah your goona get a chit loat of mixed answers on this.. But do your research and buy what makes you feel comfortable in your purchase... It's no different that a turbo or injector manufacturer...
 
OT-OF-Here said:
I have run (2) of the cams mentioned above. Both were very good IMO. The question was asked,.. "what can I expect from a cam?" I don't think you can expect a dyno proven increase like you can see with a gasser. What you can expect, IMO, is much better idle,... better economy by a 1 to 2 mpgs and better spoolup which is why you get better mpgs.

Here is what I don't get. Maxspool is talked down on because they are regrinds.???? Pls! Anybodys cam that is a mod of the oem is a regrind. Take a few minutes out and call ANY camgrinder and they will tell you as long as the changes in duration and lift are done within the Rockwell standard of hardness on the lobes then what is the difference?? I may be using the wrong word here but once even a brand new blank is ground then it is induction hardened and hence the Rocwell level of hardness. Cams don't just come that way,... unless I'm misunderstanding what Cam grinders have told me,..... they ALL need to be induction hardened. It is a numerical standard of hardness. As long as it is within the Rockwell level then you are as good with one as another so IMO don't let someone who hasn't even looked into this color your opinion of one manufacturer vs another. It's much better to let the people who are running them or have run them provide their experience.

Another HUGE issue with Cams, again IMO, is your oil being used. Cams will wear faster than anything else in your motor if you don't change from OEM oils. You need CI & CI+4 oils. Ck the labels on your oil and if doesn't have this then you will have premature wear and the dreaded cam lobe flaking problem which is the deterioration of the hardened layer on the cam lobe. The newer oils don't have what we need in the way of additives due to emissions. The CI additives will eat your CAT internals but as most of us have lost the CAT then it no longer plays in the equation. To mention a few oils I have found that carry the CI additives needed then Valvoline Classic Premium Blue is a good one,.. most auto parts stores can order it for you and I believe it only comes in 5 gal or drums. One OTC that is available at Walleyworld is Rottla T,.... it is very reasonably priced too. I'm sure any of the big $$$ premium brands probably have it too. :Cheer:
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So, wich one did you like better?
 
I have been very happy with the Maxspool cams. We sell and run them!
 
Jim Fulmer said:
David, not to rain on your parade but were is the before and after data.....BOTW, I run a stock cam.

Jim
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I was told in PM so I wasn't naming names. He owns a dynojet 240 so I trust it was not just a seat of pants type of reading, but I haven't seen the graphs personally. I'm not trying to drag anyone into a cam thread, but it was a stock to maxspool swap and now he runs F1 in a different motor.
 
I've ran both and am a dealer for both Helix cams and Maxspool's, but I run a Billet Helix 2 in my truck.
 
That sounds right,...

aircop said:
Out-of Here I thought cams where hardened before they were ground not after. Re-grinds are not re-hardened after grinding, so they have been ground twice. How thick is the hardened surface after 2 grinds?
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but the point is that the camgrinder tests the level of hardness b-4 they go out. One guy did tell me how thick that level was but I forget,.. but it is definitely sufficient to regrind a cam.
 
Hmmmm!

WICKEDDIESELS said:
These cams are not hardened by any means other than the casting process. They are NOT induction heat treated. The mold is chilled, then the molten material is poured in, creating the depth of hardness. Whoever is telling these are hardened after the casting is WRONG!

They are difficult to grind, because they are hard to begin with. Trust me, unlike talking to a cam grinder we deal with the manufacturers.

Here is a link to a comparison between the stocker and ours, it is the same casting in a UGL not a regrind.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35836
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I know you know your stuff Shane so I must have been misinformed. I will do diligence and call a few more cam companies as I would have never commented unless I had looked into this,... and I had. I'll stand down.


To comment on a previous post by another member about losing power follwing a cam installation. I am fairly certain that many if not most guys buy a cam and install it without degreeing in the cam. I'm not saying definitely that this is what happened to the truck in question but it is a good possibility. The cams being discussed here I feel were R&D plenty and if they don't perform there is a reason,... installation error most probably.
 
I have not installed a aftermarket cam in one of my trucks yet, well the one being built but it is not done yet. I have friends the have run enterprise cams, schieds cams and powerparts cams. The most common answer i get to did it make a difference, is "yeah a big diff, well some, maybe alittle" Running a cam that does not require cut pistons can only gain so much. If a guy has to pay to have one installed and pay $1000 bucks for the cam, i would say it is not worth it. If you do it yourself, and pay $500 then the egt reduction and touch better spoolup it is worth it. Its nice to see the prices becoming more competitve though. Bye the way, if there is no cut pistons, the cams no matter what brand will be basically all the same. There is only so much room you have to work with. Tim
 
try doing a search for regrinds or other cam threads. some people have not had good luck with regrinds, which forces a cam swap 2 times. not worth it, but to each his own,.
 
I have not installed a aftermarket cam in one of my trucks yet, well the one being built but it is not done yet. I have friends the have run enterprise cams, schieds cams and powerparts cams. The most common answer i get to did it make a difference, is "yeah a big diff, well some, maybe alittle" Running a cam that does not require cut pistons can only gain so much.
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That reminds me, I have an old Mitchell cam that I need to get checked out to see what the grind is just for fun.

If a guy has to pay to have one installed and pay $1000 bucks for the cam, i would say it is not worth it. If you do it yourself, and pay $500 then the egt reduction and touch better spoolup it is worth it.
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And even some of us don't want to spend the time!

Its nice to see the prices becoming more competitve though. By the way, if there is no cut pistons, the cams no matter what brand will be basically all the same. There is only so much room you have to work with.
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Or even mill the pistons too, I had to do that on my stage 3 cam as it had a .535 valve lift!

Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
The funny one is that just a few short years ago people paying a grand for one with a bolt on gear, now since the max spool and fletcher cams come onto the market at off the sudden those cam are now in the $500 range, the people that paid those big prices got screwed.

I'm done, Jim
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As one of the guys who paid nearly a grand for one, and then bought another one at the new price, I'm still happy as a pig in chit. Both cams do what they should...the H2 in my tow rig made a big improvement in EGT's, and also the truck seems to pull a little better now...in the 98, I changed so much stuff at once, I can't tell you a real change, but the truck runs DARN good, when it runs:p


And I'd buy another one if I had a truck to put it in...I think the mileage is up a little too in the tow rig...not much, but another mpg is a whole lot better than a gasser;)
Chris
 
Jim, .535 valve lift is quit a bit. Im not sure on what the actual valve lift is on my Schied cam, but it required .120 thous cuts in the pistons. My brothers new piston will be the industrial ones with a low ring land so we can cut them .250 That is for the puller only cam but we are going to run the next step down cam so it will remain streetable but if things change, throw in the big cam with a big charger and go. Tim
 
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