Wrist pin Bushing

I would use the j-jets alone. The j-jets take oil from the oil galley before the oil goes to the rod and mains. The oil is under more pressure and is cooler then the old style jets.

Paul
 
Have you considered that 150*f may be too low for a 50w lube. 50wt has essentially the same viscosity as 80w90. Normal operating temps for oil is 30-40*f higher than thermostat temp. You may want to try leaving the line witht oil around 200*f. I wouldn't be afraid of seeing oil temps climb into the 250-260ish area at the end of a pass with a good quality lube like you are using. It doesn't matter how good your oil is, if its too thick and not finding its way into the wrist pin eye it will fail eventually. I also think the pressure lubed wrist pins are a great idea. Those d&j rods sure look sweet.
 
CurtisEmery said:
Have you considered that 150*f may be too low for a 50w lube. 50wt has essentially the same viscosity as 80w90. Normal operating temps for oil is 30-40*f higher than thermostat temp. You may want to try leaving the line witht oil around 200*f. I wouldn't be afraid of seeing oil temps climb into the 250-260ish area at the end of a pass with a good quality lube like you are using. It doesn't matter how good your oil is, if its too thick and not finding its way into the wrist pin eye it will fail eventually. I also think the pressure lubed wrist pins are a great idea. Those d&j rods sure look sweet.
Click to expand...

Having no water in block or head, my run time is limited this year. I could switch to a 20-50 oil to help with the thickness when cold. My bearing clearences are pretty loose on the rods and mains. I could use a pan heater to help get oil up to temp. Those rods look really good.
 
That was my exact thought before as well that the oil was maybe on the cold side. We run 20-50 and I still wait for oil temp before getting into it.
 
I think a pan heater would be a great start. I personally run 20w50 in my puller. My oil is 200*f +before i make a pass. A 50w can take a ton of heat and still maintain its viscosity. Unfortunately it is quite lacking at colder operating temps. I know of a few local pullers who have spun bearings with 50wt lube leaving with only a few minutes of warm up time before making a pass. No pan heater was used and they ony lasted a couple of passes before sawing the block in half. Hope this helps.
 
I grabbed some logs and with the filled block and water in the head we're leaving at ~ 150-180 or so and its hardly breaking 200 by the end of the pull but we're running water in the head and factory oil cooler. Pan heater would be a good option.
 
I've always run 20-50 in my puller, I never payed a minutes attention to oil temp. Probably have 150 passes on the bearings, had the engine apart 3 times since I put it together. I've put the original set of bearings back in it every time.
 
We had these troubles years ago with a connecting rod manufacturer. That used a bronze bushing. We switched back to a stock steel backed bushing, we burnished the bushings. We also went to a tool steel pin at the same time. The engine made 3 passes and had issues with the bronze bushings. Sent them back to the manufacturer, and spun them the first pass. Once we switched back to OEM steel back bushing and burnish them those same rods are still running with same bushings. 500 passes I bet like 6 years ago.
 
Not just sure what's in the small end of the rods I got from Woodruff but it's not oem bushings. Have years on them as well. I'd be tempted after running the DLC pins in the monotherms to use steel bushings. The pistons are steel and wear great with even smaller surface area.
 
Well I have six new tool steel pins now, New set of pistons, and the hopefully the rods will be back in time to get it together for some early feb pulls. The bushing that were in the rods did not have a steel backing. What is the process for burnishing on a pin bushing? Could a person dlc coat the pins and run no bushing if the rod hole was made to size. Cams run it blocks for hundreds of thousand of miles and with no coating but oil film.
 
Crower rods don't have a bushing in the small end. They only have the normal oil feed hole in the top, and suggest using factory pins. Claim to have zero issues with them.
 
I have two sets of Crower rods and they both have bushings in the small end.

Paul
 
Odd. Maybe they've changed them or we got a rogue set. We got this set at the beginning of this year, and it was a point of some debate as to whether we would even run them since they didn't have the bushings. So I called them at Crower and they said there was no problem, never had been. They've been in the truck all year and it hasn't locked up yet. Teardown is in the next few weeks so we'll see what it looks like then.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top