Dicking Around . .

[BC847]

Cleaned the skank engine-bay and started sorting wires and hoses. Removed the Water/Methanol stuff.

Back when I installed the 49RH transmission, I learned Dodge didn't include room for transmission bell-housing bolts of a 49RH to go in/come out with the cab in place. Tilted or not. I was reminded when I pulled the failed engine.

- I took the opportunity to "Make Room" by removing/folding-over sections of the cab's pinch-welds right there behind/above where the top two bell-housing bolts need room for dis-/assembly. (Shown with the transmission drooping big-time).

Got those pesky little parts to tie-up loose-ends like the now unused water/methanol injector port getting a plug (the 2nd of the two is a charge-air temperature sensor now). A plug for the unused KSB's temperature sensor port in the intake-log's cover-plate. REAL Silicone-lined hose to best accommodate those hot turbo lube-oil drain connections to the pan/block. Refined the VE's fuel return banjo fitting/line by replacing the OEM fitting with one that immediately transitions to -4AN. Crap like that.

I'm at the point I think everything's ready to set the simple long-block into the truck.

 

[BC847]

Phack! Tip to the wise: Don't install the engine mounts until you have the engine/trans mating and secure. :doh:

Gotta mess to clean up as it's connected on this side. Gonna do some bull-dozing with some of the rat's-nest wire . . . thing.

Gonna have a highly choreographed assembly of three sub-assemblies over here.

It appears my firewall clearancing'll work.

I don't know that I've a decent photo of the turning-vane I included in the cold-pipe back when I built this mess, so . . . .

A little closer though.

 

[biggy238]

What is the intent of the vane specifically? Very nice work on it. I'm curious about the pressure differentials it will create.

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[bateman]

I tried to search.. what is a 49rh trans out of?

 

[biggy238]

Clearly it's the one that doesn't clear the floor pan, duh

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[BC847]

What is the intent of the vane specifically? Very nice work on it. I'm curious about the pressure differentials it will create.

I imagined where the two primaries played into the face of the secondary would be turbulent, at best. The thought was the turning-vane would aid in calming all that down and perhaps generally improve airflow in that area.
I had a spare bollard-cap from making the secondary's intake thing. I just cut it up and slipped it inside.

- As seen by the primary's output:

- As seen by the secondary's inlet:

I got the idea from seeing this:

 

[BC847]

I tried to search.. what is a 49rh trans out of?

The Secret-Squirrel Division of the Livesay compound. It amounts to a 47RH 3-speed case, a 46RH overdrive case, and a 48RE converter & rotating assembly using billet/alloy shafts, etc. Custom 47RH valve-body with a CompuShift MINI-II.

I call it a 49RH as "Expensive pile of $hit" brought on too many questions from the wife.

 

[BC847]

- Tonight, I started by installing the secondary sub-assembly.

* I then realized that I failed to first install the down-pipe. :doh:
- I removed the secondary sub-assembly, installed the down-pipe and then the secondary sub-assembly again.

- The installation of the primary sub-assembly wrapped up the evening.

There's a notable difference in assembling this heap on a stand and, doing the same in a snug engine-bay.

Dicking around.

 

[Red Sleeper]

I like the pressure manifold you have on the assembly. Post #122 pic 3.



Dicking Around - to spend time idly or aimlessly : to waste time :

Source: Webster

 

[BC847]

I like the pressure manifold you have on the assembly. Post #122 pic 3.

Dicking Around - to spend time idly or aimlessly : to waste time :
Source: Webster

Are you talking about the turbo lube-oil manifold? It's just a gasser's fuel distribution-block.

Dicking around. Yeah, I'll get busy eventually. It's former President (Insert name here), climate-change (*pending another name change to suit), and the at the moment virus's fault.

Yeah. That's it.

 

[Red Sleeper]

If we were neighbors, I’d be over lending a hand with this project.
I think we’d be great neighbors.

What oil/additive are you using for first fire up and cam break-in?

 

[BC847]

If we were neighbors, I’d be over lending a hand with this project.
I think we’d be great neighbors.

What oil/additive are you using for first fire up and cam break-in?

Frankly, I don't know what I'd do with a neighbor who had a clue about anything I do. I think it'd be a pleasant change of pace.

No particular brand. Just something with a big dose of the ZDDP stuff. I typically read what a given product does in terms of increasing the ZDDP. How many bottles is good for the typical gasser's five or so quarts of oil. Required math comes into play then.

 

[Smokem]

No particular brand. Just something with a big dose of the ZDDP stuff. I typically read what a given product does in terms of increasing the ZDDP.

What is the top ring material/coating, and what did you set the gaps to? When you installed the pistons what did you lubricate the rings and cylinder walls with? You should very much consider using a CK-4 10W-30 engine oil for the initial break in period.

 

[bateman]

Isn’t zddp the last thing you want to use when trying to break an engine in? The engine builder who did the work on my gas turbo engines always told me to use basic oil and no additives and to not pssyfoot the engine rather run it spirited and allow proper cooling cycles. He’s a champion NHRA racer that builds his own engines so he knows a thing or two, but he doesn’t do diesels. I’m curious is there something different when breaking in an oil burner?

 

[jasonc]

Your gas engine was most likely a roller cam motor.
Flat tappet cams, especially new with higher rate springs must run a Zinc additive.

 

[biggy238]

Isn’t zddp the last thing you want to use when trying to break an engine in? The engine builder who did the work on my gas turbo engines always told me to use basic oil and no additives and to not pssyfoot the engine rather run it spirited and allow proper cooling cycles. He’s a champion NHRA racer that builds his own engines so he knows a thing or two, but he doesn’t do diesels. I’m curious is there something different when breaking in an oil burner?

Samples for you

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[biggy238]

So let's cut to the chase. What PPM zinc are we talking?
I think the one bottle of stp I used put me at 1400 ppm? Will go back and look.

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[bateman]

Biggy I will be more than happy to put them through the lab. I tested one of our 10-30 blends last week and zinc was over 1300ppm. I was impressed.

Jason they were flat tappets. My understanding was those wear in just like other parts of the engine and you want them to break in all the same. After the initial break in then you use the zinc. Just repeating what I thought I knew. Would like to know more about what others do and why.

Wish I could say my truck has had zinc added. Wanted to start, but at 330k miles I don’t see the point. I run basic rotella and change it every 5k.

 

[BC847]

What is the top ring material/coating, and what did you set the gaps to? When you installed the pistons what did you lubricate the rings and cylinder walls with? You should very much consider using a CK-4 10W-30 engine oil for the initial break in period.

Ah. I used those rings that came with the Mahle piston set no:224-3525WR.020. I believe they have the Chrome/Ceramic Top Ring but I am not sure.

I can't find my notes to confirm what I ended up with gap-wise. As I'm sure you know, the range can be all over the place pending the application. In doing some research, it appeared to me that folks tended to go larger with the gap-size if they were beating on it and getting hot. The goal was to compensate for expansion of the rings due to the heat. The downside of that being increased loss of compression through the gap. Well, my thinking was the whole point of the triple-mess was to keep my heap cool with the given fuel. With that, the gap I set was most toward the stock gap. Clear as mud, huh? (Sorry).

The assembly lube for the cylinder walls and rings was the typical Rotilla 15w40. And had planned on running the Rotilla 15w40 with a supplemental ZDDP additive if only for the fact I've got a 5gal pail sitting in the shop.

Is the initial charge of 10w30 (thinner) oil to address the initial, I dunno, "tightness" of things till the bearings and such settle in due to real world loading? (I'm guessing here). Better all-corner penetration to all load-bearing surfaces? Teach me.

 

[BC847]

Folks, I appreciate y'alls input regarding break-in oil stuff in general. After thinking about it, it makes sense that a ZDDP supplement could very well interfere with the initial seating, burnishing, mating, whatever, of the various components. Further, an initial use of a lighter lube-oil perhaps further compliments the initial set of things.


I've got to pause assembly on the passenger's side and fix an issue of the HVAC's refrigerant suction-line (red dot) whoring around with that compressor-housing. Went and got a case of tubular perforation. (They sell "goods" for that fellas. )

Anyhoo, if I stand up straight and look hard, I can make out the woods at the end of the row.