Dicking Around . .

So, the OEM front body-mount rubber isolators I replaced/installed 15(+) years ago were found presenting as distressed. The bottom washer was too small in diameter such that the installed/compressed rubber isolator was being extruded past and around the washer. Those stock/OEM rubber isolators are no longer available.
Meh.

I'm not into the hard Polyurethane stuff typically available so, after asking around, I found that my rubber-headed mallet has the ideal profile and a similar Durometer hardness. (All things considered, it's a bargain. I can readily get a new mallet).

Makeing-New-Front-Body-Isolators-1.jpg




I cut the appropriate thickness discs and using a hole-saw, cut the appropriate hole in the center.

Making-New-Front-Body-Isolators-2.jpg




I also made new, larger in diameter, 1/8" thick washers for the isolators to rest on. Installing the stuff and torquing the bolts to 50ft/lbs, the discs were compressed to that allowed by the assembly's inner spacer-tube. It looks like I cut those new washers the right diameter.

Making-New-Front-Body-Isolators-3.jpg




Looking at it from the engine's point of view:

Making-New-Front-Body-Isolators-4.jpg




Cool.

With that, I got on with snugging-up the fenders to the radiator-support (may have to tweak them a little), replaced the IC-to-radiator-support gasketing, installed the IC, HVAC condenser and that lower valance thing.

IC-Condenser-and-Valance-Installed.jpg




I've still a number of loose ends to wrap up. I guess I need to quit dicking-around and get on with it. :poke:
 
You should go into business supplying Geno’s with body mount kit for 1st Gen dodge trucks. Next we will see a shortage on rubber mallets.
 
It's a PITA dressing all the harnesses, hoses and ducting such that none of it touches anything in that area where they transition from the truck and connect to the engine. AND, have all of it well away from the hot, post-turbo charge-air pipe. The air-filter element is soaking.

Clearancing-Hot-Charge_Air-Pipe.jpg




Renewed all the gasketing of the radiator/radiator-support/IC. More through, less bypass. ;)

Radiator-IC-Gasketing.jpg




Installed the transmission's front fluid-to-air cooler. Just about ready to install the grill.

Trans-Fluid_To_Air-Cooler-Installed.jpg




Flush trans cooler lines and connect, Battery +12vdc main auxiliary feed terminations, DATA-logger sensor harness-to-controller clean-up. Injector set POP/assembly and install. Address all the extra parts found laying around, . . . wait, . . . what?
 
Red Sleeper said:
this tape . . .
Click to expand...
There's a bunch of that (OEM) all over my engine-bay harness. Such has been used successfully for many years on a very large variety of stuff.

I've always called it "Friction Tape". I like it!
 
I don't care for automotive wiring, thank you.

The Battery Neg connection to the radiator-support is now ample. Still gotta ensure some form of electrical bonding from the rad-support to a fender, the fender to the cab, etc exists.

Body-Ground.jpg




Organized chaos. I've cleaned up the wiring mess a LOT! Made an auxiliary +12vdc power-point for the remote trans fluid cooler fan, the fuel-cooler fan, the fuel-pump, the headlights, the horns, etc. All that was duct-taped to the battery terminal before. :doh: With that, the main battery +12vdc terminal still has the starter feed, the alternator feed, that new aux power feed and the two fused grid-heater element feeds. Jeeeeeez! To the left out of sight are the relays for the horns and headlights. >sigh<

Removing the excess data-logging sensor feed-line slack helped a lot to the right.

Auxilliary-+12VDC-upgrade-DATAlogger-clean-up.jpg




One day, I'm gonna do the duck's-foot upgrade thing and combine it with relocating all the remote +12vdc power-relays, fuses and shit to one panel/box.

One day. :bang
 
Why is there always one injector that you have to adjust shims like 10 or 15 times to get it right? :banghead:

- I can: Remove the injector from the tester, break it down and tap out the shims in right at 30 seconds. Yee-haw!! :1tooth:

Setting-Injector-PoP-Pressure-(280).jpg
 
- Removed the old W/M plumbing/wiring from the engine-bay to under the bed. It was in the way up front.
- Updated fusing for the LED headlights.
- Located and installed a fuel-filter.
- Fired-up the fuel-pump and purged/flushed the fuel supply circuit up to the IP.
* Found the I can't remember how old it is Walbro electric fuel-pump that's been sitting for going on a year requires a tap with a wrench to actually start. Hmmm. Perhaps it'll straighten up with some run-time. We'll see.
- Connected the fuel-supply line to the IP and ran the lift-pump enough to see a little fuel backing out of the injector return manifold. (Filled/purged the IP).
- Filled the power-steering pump with new fluid, . . about half a cup too much. Dang it! :doh:
- Installed the injectors leaving the high-pressure feed-lines loose for later purging.
- Installed three gallons of 10w30.
- Spun the engine over to actually see the oil spilling from the correct remote oil-filter port. It's good. (My dumbass hooked that mess up backwards as Hell when I first built the trips).
- Installed the filter and spun the engine over enough to build up decent oil-pressure for running on the starter.
* Discovered that I failed to turn off the damned fuel via the manual fuel shut-off at the IP while doing the oil-pressure stuff. Fucking diesel all over the passenger's side of the head/block and turbos. Excellent!! :bang

Stopped right there, put the charger on the battery and went into the house. I'll see what it's gonna do tomorrow.
 
While I made efforts to protect the openings of all the various hoses and stuff, I failed on the front F2A trans fluid cooler lines at the radiator-support. Some insect set up a cocoon in the two lines that were quite elaborate. With all I've got invested in the relatively new recent trans build, I'm compelled to be absolutely sure all that mess is gone. I'm about two feet short of new line on-hand to flat replace the lines. :doh:

So, . . . with both ends of the two lines disconnected, I:
- Using the phacking garden hose, flushed a given line with 40ish psi of water for a moment. Then, followed that water with 90psi of compressed air for a moment.
- Did that twice to each of the two lines.
- Then, free-flowed 90psi of compressed air through each line for a measured five minutes.

Finished the air-filter assembly and associated ducting. Flushed and installed the radiator's reservoir.

Air-Filter-Radiator-Reservour.jpg
 
All that diesel sprayed will insure the reduction of rust anywhere under the hood. It’s called forward thinking.
 
nice, just did that to mine this morning. gotta go take it for a ride now.
 
The CompuShift MINI-ll fails to respond to its associated App. The app shows that it sees the device including a nice signal-strength from it but, the device fails to do the WIFI handshake apparently. The folks at HGM are at a loss. They are happy to have me send them the controller for review.
:redx:



>sigh<
 
As an update:
- At the end of the day, the CompuShift MINI 2 is funny about piggy-backing on the stock/OEM throttle-position sensor (TPS). Long story short, I cut the stock/OEM wiring free of the TPS. If I understand things right, there shouldn't be any operational issues with the stock/OEM electrical system other than a fault-code in the OBD system of the 1st Gen truck. With that, the CompuShift mess works correctly. Gotta finish learning and setting what works best in my application. (That's what I was doing when I broke the block a year ago. :doh: )
- Over the course of three or so drives, I've put perhaps 15 or so miles on it.
- Got the truck inspected.
- Renewed the vehicle registration.
- Found and addressed a couple of weeping coolant hose connections.
- Gotta replace the fuel shut-off solenoid's 1/4" push-on connector with a ring-connector.
- The existing Walbro 392 lift-pump must be replaced. It's worked flawlessly for the last seven or so years. With sitting for a year, I had to tap it to have it start. That worked for a few times. I thought it might straighten up. I thought wrong. I've two of the pumps for another project so . . .

I'm trying to get things sorted so I can put a few more miles on it for break-in purposes and then adjust the valves, change the oil & filter, etc.


All things considered, so far, so good. :)
 
That's a solid update. What pressure is your 392 producing for the mighty VE?
When is the first trip back to the track scheduled?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top