Ran against an(almost) 10sec Civic...

ARbowhunter7 said:
My comment was more based on the fact that he's running 370's, single disc NV4500, and a Dana 44. Hell, he may be in the low 12's for all I know...I've seen crazier chit, I guess.
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That D44 is up front... i'm not even thinking of launching with that thing now that the C9.25 blew up... i welded it shut, it was the spider gears that decided to leave the party....

I'm so not in the mood to swap the shackle mounts and rear axle yet...

So much work...

But i guess i'll run the stocker out until it blows and then upgrade to a dual disc South Bend...

I'm pretty confident that i know what i'm talking about... and i know that 10sec Civic will destroy me in the summer when the tarmac gets hotter.. not to mention if he runs racing slicks... after all he's close to 1000kg, and i am about three times his weight....

i as basing my times on weight and horsepower, i was completely unaware that these NV4500 would be my bump in the road....
 
angelic0- said:
i as basing my times on weight and horsepower, i was completely unaware that these NV4500 would be my bump in the road....
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A 7000 pound auto truck with 600ish rwhp will run in the low 12's with a decent 60' time. Keep in mind an auto transmission shifts about 1,000 times faster then you could ever shift that NV. Also an auto doesnt drop boost between shifts like a standard. The only way you're gonna run a fast time, is with a **** ton of horsepower.
 
I've managed to keep boost between gears with flat shifting... BUT... this stresses the clutch and internals of my tranny...
 
ARbowhunter7 said:
^ Very true, there are freaks out there. I enjoy hearing about that kind of thing from somebody who actually knows diesels. I have seen some local dumazzes do stuff with a stock clutch that no one would believe, including a CR 5.9 with an overfueled 63/68/14 and a Smarty set to "Kill" pulling 8k lbs on a bone stock clutch at WOT.
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My buddies twin turbo rig lived with a Con OFE forever as well. He and I both knew however that it was high torque at low rpm that damaged those parts. I never could explain that to anybody around here it seems.
 
So besides the fact that neither axle will hold nor the clutch... Do you have studs? You should just start over. You could not have picked worse parts. As proved by everything blowing up constantly.

Gotta give it to this guy though he is rolling with the punches pretty well.
 
I'm sure I am in the 10's. Once I change injectors and turbos and p pump it and...

Do you even know that said Civic is in the 10's or he just claims so?
 
Limited said:
I'm sure I am in the 10's. Once I change injectors and turbos and p pump it and...

Do you even know that said Civic is in the 10's or he just claims so?
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I claim my dick is ten inches. ..so until one of you wants to prove me wrong, it's ten inches.
 
Limited said:
I'm sure I am in the 10's. Once I change injectors and turbos and p pump it and...

Do you even know that said Civic is in the 10's or he just claims so?
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Saw him run 10s last summer ;) he's running a winter tune on his ECU now so he's not running full boost / reduced fuel...

So stating it's a 10sec civic was maybe a little off :) hehehe

The HX60 was improperly balanced, i will take a Holset over a BW any day...

I am waiting for new parts to come in for the turbo and i'm thinking about 7x.014 injectors, since i'm being told that they will be more suited to my daily driving...

Maybe i should just get 5x.018 ? With my pump maxed out, 5x.018... will YOU GUYS be satisfied with my setup ?

I think i should be pushing enough air to make 800hp with the 5x.018... or so i hope...

Once i make my powertrain ready i will start to build my drivetrain, this has been the plan all along...

So to clarify things...

What i have on my truck is currently listed in my signature..

What i have in stock, waiting to get on the truck are:
Dana60 front axle and Dana80 rear axle (4.10 gearing?, maybe it's 3.55?, the build sheet for the truck said they are supposed to be 4.10 but i feel my 3.91 from the gasser are shorter ratio)
Holset HX60 spare turbo, waiting for new internals to show up
Super 40 billet compressor wheel for the 40
External Wastegate, 38mm TIAL


I am looking to buy, when fundings are available;
South Bend Dual Disc Clutch
Billet input upgrade (should i be looking to buy something else internally? cryo treated or something?)
Dual Intake Horns
Racing Intercooler
 
No, you need a billet auto. The NV4500 is great, but does not like to be shifted fast. It's a poor choice for a drag build. A good auto from Garmon would probably make your truck as fast as you think it is now.
 
ARbowhunter7 said:
No, you need a billet auto. The NV4500 is great, but does not like to be shifted fast. It's a poor choice for a drag build. A good auto from Garmon would probably make your truck as fast as you think it is now.
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Yes. I gained 1.7 seconds just swapping out the trans... GRANTED, this was an older SBC DD. Before the sound dampening, the studs that help guide the floater plate and balancing.

I'm sure most of my slow shifting was due to the floater or something just not fully releasing. The single disk at ~550 was as easy to shift as a car.
 
ARbowhunter7 said:
No, you need a billet auto. The NV4500 is great, but does not like to be shifted fast. It's a poor choice for a drag build. A good auto from Garmon would probably make your truck as fast as you think it is now.
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Yeah if you want to go fast you need an auto. I know what your thinking but the manual has been tried and failed so many times. With the money you are going to spend on the NV it would be a good start on an auto. Its not a race car. Have you driven a diesel with a heavy clutch? If not I highly recommend you get someone with a DD clutch Cummins to let you test drive it first. I bet you anything you will hate it. It will shift even slower/harder with a DD. Also you want 3:55's and not 4:10's. Don't waste money on an intake horn, and I wouldn't even do the intercooler unless it leaks or you just have extra money to spend.

With a good auto you can be in the 12's with 500hp. With that NV you'll need 700hp+ and you'll have an even harder time getting it to stay together. It puts extra stress on everything jamming gears. Switch to an auto and watch 2 seconds drop off your time instantly. You'll wonder why you even tried with the stick. Trust us, its been proven.

Oh and studs? If not you'll most likely blow the head gasket before you hit 12's.
 
Limited said:
Yeah if you want to go fast you need an auto. I know what your thinking but the manual has been tried and failed so many times. With the money you are going to spend on the NV it would be a good start on an auto. Its not a race car. Have you driven a diesel with a heavy clutch? If not I highly recommend you get someone with a DD clutch Cummins to let you test drive it first. I bet you anything you will hate it. It will shift even slower/harder with a DD. Also you want 3:55's and not 4:10's. Don't waste money on an intake horn, and I wouldn't even do the intercooler unless it leaks or you just have extra money to spend.

With a good auto you can be in the 12's with 500hp. With that NV you'll need 700hp+ and you'll have an even harder time getting it to stay together. It puts extra stress on everything jamming gears. Switch to an auto and watch 2 seconds drop off your time instantly. You'll wonder why you even tried with the stick. Trust us, its been proven.

Oh and studs? If not you'll most likely blow the head gasket before you hit 12's.
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Been there.... done that.

A good happy medium is a manual valve body. Use a Lokar trans mounted floor shifter. It will still provide some sort of human error/challenge when racing. Plus, if you do some crazy turbo combinations you are your own PCM, no need to make a VB adjustment if you need to shift later/earlier. ;-)
 
The truck is used as a daily driver, and tows a car trailer around to pick up rental cars around the country... (Hyundai I10s and I30s, sometimes as big as Range Rovers)...

My cousin has a burnt up RH47 that i could possibly get and rebuild it from scratch myself, probably something i should be looking into while i'm burning up that single disc ;)

One thing you guys don't seem to understand is that i'm in Iceland, it's not as simple as hitting that Checkout button and whoom that package is at my door 2-3days later and i go and install it on my truck...

Shipping here is a killer, taxes here are a killer and everything one has to order seems to take a whole lifetime to get here...

My ISSPRO EV2s are biting the dust, so i ordered a new set on the 16th of December, set is STILL NOT HERE... it's "IN TRANSIT"...

When i bought this South Bend + Flywheel & Pressure Plate set, it originally cost 900$, then i had to pay about 500$ on shipping, and after taxes.... shipping and price was up to: 3000$...

So like i stated before, a 15.000$ build for you is more like a 40.000$ build for me...

I'm trying to work mostly with what i can aquire locally before i decide on ordering overseas...

Any suggestions on what i should throw on the "to buy for the transmission" list?

I loved my HX60 under HX40 combo before that HX60 disengrated, i'm thinking with more fuel this thing will be a blast, should make 80-90psi and 900 HOT HP should be possible??? or am i overassuming.... everyone i seem to ask seems to aggree that 900 CRANK HP should be possible, but will be HOT!

And another question, should i be running 3.55 with 35" tires ??

P.S.
Studs were the #1 thing i did rebuilding it, didn't really think i had to mention that...
 
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All the more reason to do it once and do it right. For the auto you should get all billet shafts and billet flexplate, with a triple disc torque converter and better valve body. Master rebuild of your choice, but if I remember correctly Garmon recommends Borg Warner or Raybestos over Alto red eagle. Hopefully that will hold although I've twisted a billet input and billet output running 12's. I run 3:55's with 33" tires but that's only because I pull, or I would run smaller tires.

As for the studs you mentioned a "Marine HG" would think you would mention studs that's why I asked.
 
jmd025 said:
Is the assumed hp still climbing?

You say your pump flows 700ccs? Or did i dream that?
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No, the assumed hp with overfueling and crazy EGTs is 900... CRANK

The assumed driving hp is 700-750ish...

Yes, i have 700ccs, didn't take a personal look at my DVs but the guys at the shop vere confident they were not stock...

Has anyone got a real experience on 7x.014 vs 5x.018 for an example ?
 
angelic0- said:
No, the assumed hp with overfueling and crazy EGTs is 900... CRANK

The assumed driving hp is 700-750ish...

Yes, i have 700ccs, didn't take a personal look at my DVs but the guys at the shop vere confident they were not stock...

Has anyone got a real experience on 7x.014 vs 5x.018 for an example ?
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So you have 700cc's just from a shop "looking" at the DV's?
 
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