Studs or head bolts?

97crewcab

97crewcab

Wrong.
I am reading more and more about people running stock head bolts with 0-ringed heads. Are studs really needed.
Truck is a 12v running a silver bullet. Twins are a possibility but at this time are not planned.

Opinions?

Thanks
 
I'm going to twins soon and Jeff Garmons says an O-ringed head and my stock bolts is All I will need!!!

He runs stock head bolts on BOTH of his trucks (850ish HP race truck and 650ish on his Ram 2000)!!

just me passing on his .02
 
I know of several folks who think that bolts are fine(myself included)..... and they are if you do them right. If you are worried about ding them right, it is probably easier to do studs, although more expensive.
 
what do you have to do to do it right? do you retorque the head bolts?

Swole: How much boost is Garmon saying you can run with headbolts and o ringing the head?
 
There is a specific torque sequence you have to follow to keep from screwing the bolts up.(ir is posted around here somewhere) Keating runs ungodly amounts of boost in his race engine on stock bolts.
 
I've been told head bolts are the way to go as well with a special torqueing procedure. Anyone happen to know what that procedure is as I'll be doing my head with them in about two weeks?
 
that's a Garmon top secret procedure :hehe: they break if anyone else tries to do it !.

What I know about it you have to torque each bolt in 5lbs increments.... all the way to where to want ( 120lbs ) which is asking for them to break but, if done right.... they hold. It will take hours to do but, I believe that's how it's done.
 
triton said:
that's a Garmon top secret procedure :hehe: they break if anyone else tries to do it !.

What I know about it you have to torque each bolt in 5lbs increments.... all the way to where to want ( 120lbs ) which is asking for them to break but, if done right.... they hold. It will take hours to do but, I believe that's how it's done.
Click to expand...

Not quite... It took Jeff about 15 minutes to do mine and they are all at 150+
 
that's because he has a magic wand LOL anyone else beside maybe Darren, it would take hours :) !
 
Sleddy's old puller had the stock head bolts and a o-ring job which EEP did many moons ago.That same truck still pulls today with those very headbolts and it has never been taken down for anything.The truck finished third at the Keystone Indoor pull......Andy
 
I see why anyone would be interested in any Excuse not to use the studs because thier so damn expensive, but its just that an excuse. Stud it and be done with it. The bolts will streach thier suppose to, the alloys in the arp or others, do not at least not as much nor as soon. This is the very reason the HG's let loose, the bolt streaches and the boost escapes. Theres no better fastener or way to hold a head on than studs, and your not trying to pull the threads out of the block this way also. Thier overpriced i agree, but necc. if enough boost is used, but overtorque and using the bolt in the wrong psi than it was manufactured for is asking for trouble in my opinion... Ryan
 
stock600 said:
This is the very reason the HG's let loose, the bolt streaches and the boost escapes. Theres no better fastener or way to hold a head on than studs, and your not trying to pull the threads out of the block this way also.
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Wrong and wrong.

I have seen trucks running stock headbolts make enough boost to cause you to crap yourself. When torqued properly, bolts will work fine. Also, I have never seen bolts pull threads out, but studs are another story.

HG's can go for a variety of reasons. I'll buy that bolts at stock TQ specs can lead to HG failures, but these would happen with studs at those same TQ specs.
 
stock600 said:
. Thier overpriced i agree, but necc. if enough boost is used, but overtorque and using the bolt in the wrong psi than it was manufactured for is asking for trouble in my opinion... Ryan
Click to expand...

You should really tell this to Keating, Garmon, Morrison, Prince and others. They would probably be glad to find out that the bolts in their 1000+ HP motors are not sufficient LOL
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Wrong and wrong.

I have seen trucks running stock headbolts make enough boost to cause you to crap yourself. When torqued properly, bolts will work fine. Also, I have never seen bolts pull threads out, but studs are another story.

HG's can go for a variety of reasons. I'll buy that bolts at stock TQ specs can lead to HG failures, but these would happen with studs at those same TQ specs.
Click to expand...

So do I need to take out my existing Headbolts and lubricate them before torqueing them over the manufacture # or can I just tighten them just the way they are in the truck? Do you have the sequence to tighten them to and the right specs? Thanks
 
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