HE351VE on a 12 valve

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the actuating between a big diameter and a small diameter Air cylinder?
i found a very small air cylinder (1/2" diameter and about 4" long) that i think about using on a 3rd vgt project. This time on a 12 valve cummins in a 71 ford
 
12valve said:
Does anyone know if there is a difference in the actuating between a big diameter and a small diameter Air cylinder?
i found a very small air cylinder (1/2" diameter and about 4" long) that i think about using on a 3rd vgt project. This time on a 12 valve cummins in a 71 ford
Click to expand...
A larger bore should be slightly slower to actuate, not necessarily a bad thing, it would also push out or pull in with more force than a smaller bore at the same pressure since the plunger has more surface area. this is where I bought mine
Pneumatic Components Products I got a 9/16 bore 4" stroke but they have many different sizes. Of course i haven't got around to putting the turbo on the truck so I cant say how well it works if at all. I also got some meter-in and meter-out flow control valves from the same place, shipping was very fast.
 
Last edited:
Thanks!

I didn't check back till now and i already the small cylinder on the turbo...
What you are saying makes total sence! thanks
i was able to make it open at whatever psi i wanted with different springs settings but its not very constant and it doesnt have have much force, im affraid if the turbo starts slightly sticking, it will open later or it wont open at all. cause at 25 psi with regulated air i can easily pull it back shut

How are you mounting it to the manifold? im planning on putting it on a 12v today. lets see how it goes
 
12valve said:
Thanks!

I didn't check back till now and i already the small cylinder on the turbo...
What you are saying makes total sence! thanks
i was able to make it open at whatever psi i wanted with different springs settings but its not very constant and it doesnt have have much force, im affraid if the turbo starts slightly sticking, it will open later or it wont open at all. cause at 25 psi with regulated air i can easily pull it back shut

How are you mounting it to the manifold? im planning on putting it on a 12v today. lets see how it goes
Click to expand...
I bought a t3 and a wgmt weld flange and plan to get a piece of 3x1.5 or 2xihavent decided a thickness yet rectangular tubing cut at an angle on both ends so that the shorter sides of the flange and the tubing match up. Then either split it down the middle take some metal out and weld it back together, or just clean up the outlets with an air file to make the longer ends flush with flanges then weld it all together. im hoping this rolls the turbo far enough away from the shock tower to clear with out flipping the manifold. But I think this will create a clearance issue between the compressor inlet and the oil filter for the intake. I've yet to see a swap that didn't flip the manifold with out just welding the turbo directly to it or machining a t3 pattern in to the housing
 
New to forum and doing a VGT swap

Hey guys. Sorry to just drop in on this thread but I have an idea of controlling the VGT and just wanted to get some opinions.
I have a single action air cylinder with a 5psi cracking pressure to use as the actuator. I will be running off of drive pressure.
No here's the kicker.....I have a Greddy electronic boost controller I am going to use. You can set the boost level at which the actuator opens. Set how quickly it opens. Set how fast it closes. And a lot of other little adjustments here and there.
Now the cool thing about it is that there is a HI and LO setting that you switch back and forth by the push of a button. Have the HI setting for rawhiding and playin around. Then set the LO side to keep the veins open more for cruising and highway speeds to keep lower EGTs and drive pressure for economy.
Sorry for the long post, but if anyone has any input on this setup I'd be glad to get some feedback.

Thanks
 
recklesskelly said:
I bought a t3 and a wgmt weld flange and plan to get a piece of 3x1.5 or 2xihavent decided a thickness yet rectangular tubing cut at an angle on both ends so that the shorter sides of the flange and the tubing match up. Then either split it down the middle take some metal out and weld it back together, or just clean up the outlets with an air file to make the longer ends flush with flanges then weld it all together. im hoping this rolls the turbo far enough away from the shock tower to clear with out flipping the manifold. But I think this will create a clearance issue between the compressor inlet and the oil filter for the intake. I've yet to see a swap that didn't flip the manifold with out just welding the turbo directly to it or machining a t3 pattern in to the housing
Click to expand...

My bro had a vgt put on a 4x4 with an adapter (two flanges and a square tubing in the middle) it did hit the shock tower, after some testing without the shock tower, he took it off and welded it on and reinstaled th shock tower! not the best tough!
So I installed a vgt with a machined t3 inlet on a 12v today and removed too much material behind the stock manifold to bolt the turbo :doh:
besides it worked and fit like a charm!
should i weld it shut?
 
12valve said:
My bro had a vgt put on a 4x4 with an adapter (two flanges and a square tubing in the middle) it did hit the shock tower, after some testing without the shock tower, he took it off and welded it on and reinstaled th shock tower! not the best tough!
So I installed a vgt with a machined t3 inlet on a 12v today and removed too much material behind the stock manifold to bolt the turbo :doh:
besides it worked and fit like a charm!
should i weld it shut?
Click to expand...
you can weld cast iron but you have to heat it up, not red hot but close, and then cool it down slowly after you weld. I'm sure the experts will chime in on this.
Fischer86 said:
Hey guys. Sorry to just drop in on this thread but I have an idea of controlling the VGT and just wanted to get some opinions.
I have a single action air cylinder with a 5psi cracking pressure to use as the actuator. I will be running off of drive pressure.
No here's the kicker.....I have a Greddy electronic boost controller I am going to use. You can set the boost level at which the actuator opens. Set how quickly it opens. Set how fast it closes. And a lot of other little adjustments here and there.
Now the cool thing about it is that there is a HI and LO setting that you switch back and forth by the push of a button. Have the HI setting for rawhiding and playin around. Then set the LO side to keep the veins open more for cruising and highway speeds to keep lower EGTs and drive pressure for economy.
Sorry for the long post, but if anyone has any input on this setup I'd be glad to get some feedback.

Thanks
Click to expand...
sounds like this is just what we've been looking for. put it on, let us know how you like it.
 
Just started machining the exhaust housing today. Hopefully I can start putting everything together this weekend. I'll post some updates as it all comes together.
 
I tried a new method of controlling the vanes! Simplier than ever!

i found out the drive pressure WILL push the vane collar open, so i just installed a spring to keep it closed, to where the screw is set, when there is no/low Drive pressure and as drive pressure increases the collar opens up,

as of right now it might feel a little laggier than with the w/g actuator,
but i have not tuned it in yet very good! last time i had my bro powerbrake the truck it opened up too soon.
Max boost is the same, so i know its openening all the way to where the max screw is set to
 
12valve said:
I tried a new method of controlling the vanes! Simplier than ever!

i found out the drive pressure WILL push the vane collar open, so i just installed a spring to keep it closed, to where the screw is set, when there is no/low Drive pressure and as drive pressure increases the collar opens up,

as of right now it might feel a little laggier than with the w/g actuator,
but i have not tuned it in yet very good! last time i had my bro powerbrake the truck it opened up too soon.
Max boost is the same, so i know its openening all the way to where the max screw is set to
Click to expand...

What kind of mechanism are you using to turn the drive pressure into movement?

I am using a wastegate actuator that is running off of drive pressure.. I'm not sure if this is what you mean you are doing or?
 
recklesskelly said:
I bought a t3 and a wgmt weld flange and plan to get a piece of 3x1.5 or 2xihavent decided a thickness yet rectangular tubing cut at an angle on both ends so that the shorter sides of the flange and the tubing match up. Then either split it down the middle take some metal out and weld it back together, or just clean up the outlets with an air file to make the longer ends flush with flanges then weld it all together. im hoping this rolls the turbo far enough away from the shock tower to clear with out flipping the manifold. But I think this will create a clearance issue between the compressor inlet and the oil filter for the intake. I've yet to see a swap that didn't flip the manifold with out just welding the turbo directly to it or machining a t3 pattern in to the housing
Click to expand...


I have an adapter that totals just over 1" in thickness, I made new mounts for my shocks that eliminates that tall shock tower.
 
bna5017 said:
What kind of mechanism are you using to turn the drive pressure into movement?

I am using a wastegate actuator that is running off of drive pressure.. I'm not sure if this is what you mean you are doing or?
Click to expand...

no mechanism at all, he's saying the pressure against the collar inside the exhaust housing will force it open without the need of an actuator.
 
12valve said:
I tried a new method of controlling the vanes! Simplier than ever!

i found out the drive pressure WILL push the vane collar open, so i just installed a spring to keep it closed, to where the screw is set, when there is no/low Drive pressure and as drive pressure increases the collar opens up,

as of right now it might feel a little laggier than with the w/g actuator,
but i have not tuned it in yet very good! last time i had my bro powerbrake the truck it opened up too soon.
Max boost is the same, so i know its openening all the way to where the max screw is set to
Click to expand...

Do you have any pics with the new spring setup?
 
recklesskelly said:
no mechanism at all, he's saying the pressure against the collar inside the exhaust housing will force it open without the need of an actuator.
Click to expand...

Makes sense now, I guess I never thought of that. Just play with the compression on the spring to get it to open at a decent rate.
 
Yep exactly... Works well... Im just truing different things.. I ran a 13.4 @ 98 mph yesterday night with that setup, with spoolup lije stock i really like that as a daily driver
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top