Chains or Straps??

he doesnt have a winch...i know that much LOL


also i use the 2500lbs winch to hold my 4 wheeler to the front of the trailer...but the trailer also has 1' tall rails around it (utility trailer) and the 4 wheeler still gets a strap on the back
 
I use axle straps and 2" rachet straps that have like a foot of chain on either end. The chain part is easier hooking on the rub rails than a regular strap with just a hook, JMO.
 
I use 4 Kinedyne 2" rhino web straps with chain hooks. I hook them to the frame on the corners pulling cross ways away from the truck. I stagger the stake pockets I use so the straps don't rub.
 
if its something with a motor on it i use chains anything else i use straps and alot of them and have alot of extra ones just in case one breaks seen it to many times break and not have enough i just have to remind my dad to put them back in the right truck lol and i like the rachet binders better and WIS DOT is starting to mandate them at least one of them and other binders are ok i just dont like the fact them can come flying open
 
the chains i have are long enough to cross...but which is better with 4 chains and my racheting binders

226314.jpg
 
A, but move your attach point on the trailer farther in, the sharper the angle of whatever retention device you use, the better, i.e., if you can get your chain at a 45* angle instead of a 30* angle it's better. I always hook so that the suspension of whatever is on the trailer is compressed, when you hook to just the axles you are putting extra stress on your load securing straps/chains every time you hit a bump. If you go with binders, try to get some of the "soft release" types, they don't boom quite as bad and are a bit safer IMHO.
 
Everybody I have seen hooks to the axles, and lets the suspension free. If those axles can hold up to sled pulling, they will hold up to the forces you put on a binder. I will work on the pics of the mounts TJ.
 
Billysgoat said:
A, but move your attach point on the trailer farther in, the sharper the angle of whatever retention device you use, the better, i.e., if you can get your chain at a 45* angle instead of a 30* angle it's better. I always hook so that the suspension of whatever is on the trailer is compressed, when you hook to just the axles you are putting extra stress on your load securing straps/chains every time you hit a bump. If you go with binders, try to get some of the "soft release" types, they don't boom quite as bad and are a bit safer IMHO.
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the tires get in the way, and I always hook to the axles, never the frame.
 
chain the frame not the axles. chaining the frame down wont allow the truck to bounce on the trailer. it wont sway or lean the trailer as much on rough roads. and you dont have to worry about anything on the axles getting smashed.
 
But when you chain the frame, and compress the suspension, every bump you hit compresses and unloads it putting slack in your chain/straps. You cannot bring all the flex out of the suspension by tying it down.

I always chain the axles...usually 2 chains on the rear, sometimes crossed, sometimes not crossed, and 2 chains on the front the same way!

Why are you worried about body roll on something you're hauling?? I haul tractors that are a heck of a lot taller than a truck, and heavier...a little body roll on a 7000lb truck is nothing. Throw a 15K lb tractor or combine on there, that is 13' total height, and it's a different ballgame;)

Chris
 
Signature600 said:
But when you chain the frame, and compress the suspension, every bump you hit compresses and unloads it putting slack in your chain/straps. You cannot bring all the flex out of the suspension by tying it down.

I always chain the axles...usually 2 chains on the rear, sometimes crossed, sometimes not crossed, and 2 chains on the front the same way!

Why are you worried about body roll on something you're hauling?? I haul tractors that are a heck of a lot taller than a truck, and heavier...a little body roll on a 7000lb truck is nothing. Throw a 15K lb tractor or combine on there, that is 13' total height, and it's a different ballgame;)

Chris
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Quoted for truth! Thank you!
 
Also, if you use "over-center" binders...make sure to wrap your excess chain around the binder, or wire the binder closed. The Hwy Patrol are getting more picky all the time about how you deal with the excess chain. Usually, on our trucks, we wrap the chains around them, then hold everything together with a tarp strap!


Not that any of this is "the law," but I've hauled lots of stuff in my short time, and have not had any problems yet. It all boils down to making it look like you care enough, and have payed attention to what your doing. If it looks like you just threw stuff on there, they will write you up...if it looks like you tried and did it as best you could, they will usually ask you to change it to suit them before writing tickets for unsafe loads!

Chris
 
When I haul my cherokee, I use the 4 straps (its like 4,000lbs) and then take all the extra strap and put in the rear hatch or front doors and shut the door on them so they cant come out.

And when it comes to strapping stuff down...my old man takes the cake. We used to put 4 ATV's on our big trailer sideways. each one got 2- 6,000lbs rated 2" rachet straps (front and rear) and run all the excess strap back around the frames and tied them off to the trailer. Then after that, he would run our long 10k lbs rachet straps through ALL of them together and tighten it down, and would then run that excess strap back through all of them again before tying it off.

those 700lbs ATV's would have to break 4 layers of 6k strap, and 4 layers of 10k strap in oder to come off that trailer. not to mention they are automatics with a "Park" in the trans so they arent free rolling like the 2wd race bikes.

Overkill...a lil bit :D
 
Signature600 said:
But when you chain the frame, and compress the suspension, every bump you hit compresses and unloads it putting slack in your chain/straps. You cannot bring all the flex out of the suspension by tying it down.

I always chain the axles...usually 2 chains on the rear, sometimes crossed, sometimes not crossed, and 2 chains on the front the same way!

Why are you worried about body roll on something you're hauling?? I haul tractors that are a heck of a lot taller than a truck, and heavier...a little body roll on a 7000lb truck is nothing. Throw a 15K lb tractor or combine on there, that is 13' total height, and it's a different ballgame;)

Chris
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you can take all the flex out of the suspension. when i chain my truck down the bump stops bottom out on the axles. i dont want what im ahauling to move at all.
 
Most of the guys I know chain to the axles, go to the pulls that is how most of them are chained down. If the axles won't take the stress of having a chain on them, then they probably shouldn't be used for pulling. I understand if you have a lifted truck with lots of travel and articulation, there could be lots of body roll. We always chain the axles and have had zero issues. To each his own. I would rather my body on the truck have a little up and down movement as it would allow the trailer an easier time when it goes over the big bumps, as the truck can absorb some of the weight.
 
Restraint Requirements

getblown5.9 said:
For strapping down my truck on the gooseneck. I currently have only used two heavy chains and heavy binders (1 for each axle pulling opposite directions) rated for 16k each (heavy equipment stuff)

This year I will be hauling it alot more and was thinking 4 10k car straps with axle wraps would be easier to strap down...but my old man thinks I am gonna get in trouble with the DOT if I don't start using 4 chains and binders like they require when he hauls heavy machinery for work.

Anyone think that 4 new/properly working 3" wide load staps with axle wraps are not sufficient to strap a 7,400lbs truck to the trailer?
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I realize this thread is going on a month + old and many people have already levied their opinions, but.....

The business of restraining anything inside a cargo aircraft happens to be my job. Yes I did say aircraft, however what I am about to tell you easily translates to every day, non-aircraft uses.

I cant exactly give you facts on DOT regulations but here's what I was trained to do and know ...

Restraint is all about overcoming G-forces and inertia.

General rule: Think of the following directions of travel in the manner of which direction the load would travel IF your device (strap/chain/binder) were to FAIL.

This is known as Load Factor.

Forward requires load weight multiplied by 3.0
Aft requires load weight multiplied by 1.5
Left & Right (VERTICAL) requires load weight multiplied by 2.0

SOOO...

A 7,400 pound vehicle needs 22,200 puonds of Restraint Factor for Forward.
11,100 pounds of restraint are needed for Aft
14,800 pounds of restraint are needed for Left, Right, & Vertical.

NOTICE there are "remainders" or hundreds given.

You WILL NEVER, EVER LEAVE A REMAINDER. ROUND UP TO THE NEXT HIGHER, EVEN-NUMBERED THOUSAND!!

So by this example, you require 24,000 pounds of restraint for forward and 12,000 pounds restraint for Aft.
16,000 pounds restraint for Left, Right & Vertical.

To find how many straps/chains/binders you require, divide the value of restraint required by the device's rating.

***WARNING***

You nor I will ever achieve the maximum rating of any strap/chain/binder. AUTOMATICALLY SUBTRACT 2,000 POUNDS FROM THE DEVICE'S MAXIMUM RATING FOR SAFETY!! By calculating the maximum rated value is begging for the device to fail by being overstressed regardless of the number of devices used for the same direction.

Moving on..

So if you are using 5/16" chain & binders (typically rated for 10k) subtract
2k leaving 8k. So now your calculations will look like this

24,000 / 8,000 = 3
12,000 / 8,000 = 1.5
16,000 / 8,000 = 2

***WARNING***
NEVER USE AN ODD NUMBER OF DEVICES FOR TIE-DOWN.
NOR WILL YOU EVER USE HALF OF A STRAP/CHAIN

ALWAYS USE DEVICES IN EVEN NUMBERED PAIRS. ALWAYS ROUND UP TO THE NEXT HIGHER EVEN NUMBER.

So you require by this example 4 10k chains and binders for forward, 2 for aft, 2 left, and 2 right.

Now I know your thinking how do I achieve the left, right & vertical. Unless you're dealing with a special purpose vehicle or heavy equipment you wont have tie-down points on the left and right. You achieve the left and right restraint by "X-ing" the devices, that is forming an X with your chains. Vertical is achieved through all devices used.

***INFO NOTE***
Devices used in Straight lines applied to the direction of travel provide the most restraint. (Meaning not tied to the left or right of the vehicle anchor point on the trailer, but directly forward/aft/left/right.)

***CAUTION***
No more than 50% of the Forward restraint can be achieved by going around the axle.

So of your 4 needed for forward, only 2 can go around the axle. Make the other 2 tie down points around the frame, receiver hitch, spring perch, etc...

Making your tie-points to the vehicle and to the trailer symetrical is critical.

There..... I know that's a whole lot of words.... but it's really quite simple.

I tell you all this because I feel it is my duty to inform people on the correct way of restraining a load.

Trust me... God forbid your on your way to the next big diesel event, trailer, truck, and gear behind you, when granny or the brand-new teen-age driver forgets to look both ways before leaving the drive-way and you have to take the ditch on the opposite side to avoid killing them. You'll have better chances of your race truck staying put on the trailer vs. it becoming a guilitine coming straight for your head or some by-stander.

I have lived through a very near experience as I just mentioned and witnessed many others with variations.

I have also seen what damage something as light as 175 pounds can do unrestrained on impact.... VERY UGLY.

Taking the easy way of going about restraining your load IS A VERY :badidea:

I can only equate this to the impact and carnage of a .50 cal BMG round @ 50 yards... I'll let you all think about that one.

Class dismissed.
 
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=119893&id=508737350

thats what happen to my cousin a drunk driver hit them comeing home and they had 4 chains and 4 binders out of all of the ONLY ONE binder came loose which surprise the hell out of me and i always thought they over did chaining down not any more lol and no one got hurt totalled the truck trailer was fixable but was totalled out tractor needs new frame rails fender and some other small stuff and just check out the other pics of everything its nuts
 
ramtough01 said:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=119893&id=508737350

thats what happen to my cousin a drunk driver hit them comeing home and they had 4 chains and 4 binders out of all of the ONLY ONE binder came loose which surprise the hell out of me and i always thought they over did chaining down not any more lol and no one got hurt totalled the truck trailer was fixable but was totalled out tractor needs new frame rails fender and some other small stuff and just check out the other pics of everything its nuts
Click to expand...

Is there any way you can post those pictures for those of us that do not have facebook?
 
Billysgoat said:
A, but move your attach point on the trailer farther in, the sharper the angle of whatever retention device you use, the better, i.e., if you can get your chain at a 45* angle instead of a 30* angle it's better. I always hook so that the suspension of whatever is on the trailer is compressed, when you hook to just the axles you are putting extra stress on your load securing straps/chains every time you hit a bump. If you go with binders, try to get some of the "soft release" types, they don't boom quite as bad and are a bit safer IMHO.
Click to expand...


I agree with Billy here. Don't cross (Option A) and keep the angle close to 45*. The more suspension or tires are compressed the better. If the load is poping the restraint..it's not tight enough. Just think of it as adding 4 to 10,000 lbs of weight to the load. Would the truck (ie, load) bounce with 10k in it? I've been around for a while and I have yet to see ONE rubber tired machine strapped down by the axels or tires......always by the frame.

Please remeber, you are moving Forward and your strongest chains should be used at the rear. ...........I saw a horrible sight some years ago. I saw a small rubber tire loader (20k or so) sitting in the cab or what was left of it. The Lowboy driver had chains on the front and one on the back. The rear chain popped as he approached the red-light. The other chains popped 'after' the tractor was in motion, 8+ feet of slack will do that.

As long as the trailer and load act as one you shouldn't have a problem. If there is movement between the two.....ya got problems.

Ratchet binders are the only way to go.
 
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