24v p-pump and build
- Thread starter Ghostman
- Start date
Ghostman
24v crazy
A little more progress so far. It's all 1/4" so far. The winch actually weights more than the bumper so far. I'm about out of material. I may pick up 3/16" for the rest. I still have to finish welding it out and drilling the holes. I think I'm gonna go with 7/16" bolts. They will be in double shear. The bumper has a plate that goes on both sides of the 4x4 square that's welded to the frame. The winch is staying right there. It seems like that's the strongest part to pull from and it's actually level with the frame right there and tucked in tight. Now I just need to finish the wings and finished welding it out.
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Chrisd91
New member
Ghostman
24v crazy
Ghostman
24v crazy
Well it works and holds water lol. I need to get some cheapo temp sensors and screw into the 3/4" ports I have.
Ghostman
24v crazy
Yes, I still plan on using the A/W interstage cooler. Just takes a lot more time and money still lol. I got the primary here obviously and am working on the hot pipe in my spare time along with my other projects. I hope to order the secondary here next and then the manifold last. Then it will be more piping and wastegate. I'm going easy right now cause the oilfield isn't doing the greatest haha.
whitneyj
still in pieces
Ahhhhh..... Tracking.
What secondary are you going with?
I ran into some of your posts on pirate today researching some things and am looking forward to you getting your rig further along and out there.
On that note, do you have any thread on when you did your hydro assist? I've built several setups, but never with hydroboost. I've been looking into industrial hydraulic pumps to get away from an EOM pump. Curious on what you did, what you're working with, and how it performs.
Also looking for more info on your suspension. Your links look long and parallel. Nothing ever really came from your post on suspension numbers.
What secondary are you going with?
I ran into some of your posts on pirate today researching some things and am looking forward to you getting your rig further along and out there.
On that note, do you have any thread on when you did your hydro assist? I've built several setups, but never with hydroboost. I've been looking into industrial hydraulic pumps to get away from an EOM pump. Curious on what you did, what you're working with, and how it performs.
Also looking for more info on your suspension. Your links look long and parallel. Nothing ever really came from your post on suspension numbers.
Ghostman
24v crazy
I'm going with the BW s362/68/0.83 FMW secondary.
I don't think I did a thread on my hydro assist but if you have any questions just ask. It works great right now with my "west texas pumps mods" except it can be a hair slow at a real slow idle going left(large fill side). I was wanting to add a larger ram which was my reason for searching for a bigger PS pump but I may give up on that. I've been trying to find an industrial pump, but it's been a fruitless search so far. I think I'm going to try the "high flow" pump from PSC next and see how it does.
On my front suspension I built it all myself. It's parallel four links but it kind of sucks. I built it a couple years back and now knowing so much more I am wanting to change it again already. I have a HP ford Dana 60 that I'm working on also, going to swap early model dodge outer knuckles on it and truss it and run a three link with alot better link geometry(lots less anti-dive) and hopefully some coilovers.
The rear shackle flip from TGC sucks really bad too. That was the worst mod I ever did. Also the front coils I got are for a hemi and they're too soft or my shock valving isn't "stiff" enough.
Changes to be made, but that's the fun part; fabbing and learning and trying new things. I enjoy doing it.
whitneyj
still in pieces
Before you go with an aftermarket pump read this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/973826-what-s-going-inside-ps-pump.html
That's the secondary I'm looking at if I don't like my HTT 364/74. Curious how it works for you.
What's wrong with the shackle flip? Is it their kit in general or the shackle flip itself was a bad idea? I've never heard anything bad about shackle flips.
I'm a huge fan of 3 links. They're far more adjustable than a parallel 4 link. Both suspension designs are going to have side to side movement of the axle and that's really the only drawback until you get into large amounts of articulation. On that note, the front of my crewcab is getting linked and I've been tossing around the ideas of radius arms... What concerns me is only have 2 mounts holding the front axle. With a 3 link I'm curious how you'll build the axle upper mount strong enough to hold the weight and torque of our trucks. I'm also curious what joints you'll use.
You're running hydro assist and hydroboost? Can you pull a full load on both functions and not lose brakes? I'm curious how you plumbed that as the cylinder requires flow over pressure whereas the hydroboost requires pressure over flow.
That's the secondary I'm looking at if I don't like my HTT 364/74. Curious how it works for you.
What's wrong with the shackle flip? Is it their kit in general or the shackle flip itself was a bad idea? I've never heard anything bad about shackle flips.
I'm a huge fan of 3 links. They're far more adjustable than a parallel 4 link. Both suspension designs are going to have side to side movement of the axle and that's really the only drawback until you get into large amounts of articulation. On that note, the front of my crewcab is getting linked and I've been tossing around the ideas of radius arms... What concerns me is only have 2 mounts holding the front axle. With a 3 link I'm curious how you'll build the axle upper mount strong enough to hold the weight and torque of our trucks. I'm also curious what joints you'll use.
You're running hydro assist and hydroboost? Can you pull a full load on both functions and not lose brakes? I'm curious how you plumbed that as the cylinder requires flow over pressure whereas the hydroboost requires pressure over flow.
biggy238
Active member
Any Thoughts given to trw pumps from heavy Ford or kenworth b model applications?
I would love a thread on your steering mods ghost man.
I've been meaning to learn how to port my box for assist.
I'm curious if a recuperating check valve circuit would make up for your cylinder fill speed.
But it's late and I'm tired.
I would love a thread on your steering mods ghost man.
I've been meaning to learn how to port my box for assist.
I'm curious if a recuperating check valve circuit would make up for your cylinder fill speed.
But it's late and I'm tired.
whitneyj
still in pieces
Here's for tapping the steering box: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/dodge/944064-tapping-borgeson-box-etc.html
There are a few threads on pirate about how people plumbed their hydroassist steering, essentially just running a T fitting off the pump to the feed the hydroboost and steering gear box separately. There wasn't any feedback on how that worked though, so I'm hesitant to give it a shot when I get my truck back.
Ghostman
24v crazy
Yep, brakes always work great. Everything is plumbed like the OEM, I just tapped the saginaw steering box and ran the hoses.
Yeah, I've searched and tried alot, but haven't really found anything I'm willing to risk my money on at the moment. The steering assist is pretty simple. I just tapped the box like he linked below and the ran the hoses to the cylinder. One side of the cylinder is connected to the axle and the other side to the tie rod.
No tee fitting needed. I have full brake power and good steering, it's just a hair slow at LOW idle speed, ie:cold motor, in gear, no throttle, like 500-600 rpm.
Ghostman
24v crazy
Yeah lol, a lot. Working with the constraints of the system, the LCA mounts on frame will be welded on bottom of frame, and LCA mounts on axle as far outboard as possible and level with axle centerline. This will give the flattest lower link possible without extreme low hanging brackets and a little triangulation on the lowers. Going to be around 36"ish lowers. The upper will be around 8-9" separation on the axle end pretty much directly over the pumpkin, straight back to inside frame rail. Weld on bracket to inside of frame rail, slightly shorter upper probably depending on what pinion angle does, flat as possible again, probably 4-5" separation at frame. Of course all depending on what fits and what works best when I cycle the suspension etc. Trying to get low anti-squat(dive) or as close to less than or equal to 20% as possible.
I'm not sure if that explain it, but all makes perfect sense in my head.
TURBOLVR
Mr. Whipple
look into this some more. moving the LCA pivot up directly behind the axle will put a lot more stress (pull) on the upper arms during braking and also on the bushings during compression. this is because the axle wants to tilt.
As an example, my fox chassis mustang had similar rear suspension design and it would tear the rear upper mounts out since they were the only thing preventing the axle from tipping up under power, or down under braking.
The further down under the axle the mounts go, the more this force is reduced and transferred to the LCA . $.02
Ghostman
24v crazy
Very good point there sir. I'll take that into consideration. Might rotate down a little.
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whitneyj
still in pieces
There's an equation for figuring out what separation should be at the frame and axle side. It takes into consideration the tire size and.... well that's all I remember at the moment 
I'll dig into it tonight when I have a free second.
The issue I've always run into with 3 links using the upper on the pumpkin side was packaging. Space becomes a concern very quickly. The other issue is welding to cast: I hate it. I've seen lighter, high hp buggies with a single upper have their brackets welded to the cast, but as heavy as our pigs are there's no way I'd trust that to hold, especially with our torque levels. I'm assuming that your truss will be what the brackets are welded onto? Even then I feel you're going to have a hard time cramming everything in there. These are really the only 2 reasons I've been thinking radius arms versus a 3 link for my truck. It also won't be anything more than a DD and mild utility.
I'll dig into it tonight when I have a free second.The issue I've always run into with 3 links using the upper on the pumpkin side was packaging. Space becomes a concern very quickly. The other issue is welding to cast: I hate it. I've seen lighter, high hp buggies with a single upper have their brackets welded to the cast, but as heavy as our pigs are there's no way I'd trust that to hold, especially with our torque levels. I'm assuming that your truss will be what the brackets are welded onto? Even then I feel you're going to have a hard time cramming everything in there. These are really the only 2 reasons I've been thinking radius arms versus a 3 link for my truck. It also won't be anything more than a DD and mild utility.