24v p-pump and build

Do your studs have 6 studs that are slightly longer? Ive seen it where the longer studs are put in the wrong spot and snap because they bottom out. Just something to keep in mind.
 
WhiteKnight said:
Do your studs have 6 studs that are slightly longer? Ive seen it where the longer studs are put in the wrong spot and snap because they bottom out. Just something to keep in mind.
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Nope. All the same length. I checked before I ran them in. Only two studs had the shoulder machined higher up on it for the two dowel pin spots. They all "bottomed out" on the shoulder of the stud at the block. Directions said to thread all the way in.


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Imo this happens because the threads aren't as precise as the arp studs. When you put the load on them it doesn't pull evenly on the threads and causes a uneven load on one side of the stud and snaps it off.

When I put the studs in the block I actually back them of a tiny bit so you can wiggle the stud back and forth.

With the extreme stud we broke you couldnt Even wiggle it back and forth with it only threaded half way in the block.

phone
 
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Ok just something i remembered seeing so i figured id relay the info! I know the arp studs i used in my truck have 6 longer ones so i didnt know if it was the same with any of the other stud brands out there
 
Talked to Extreme this morning and was very nice and helpful. Offered to send a whole new set or one stud whichever I preferred. He said was very surprised one snapped, and could count on one hand the number of times its happened which is understandable. He said they have torqued them to 180 lb/ft without failure, but have revised their instructions and they say to only torque to 120 lb/ft not 140 lb/ft like the old instructions say. He says their studs wont stretch like others so once their tight and gasket is crushed then that's it. I'm going to try to back this one out with a left handed drill bit and put one back in. If that don't work, I'll yank the head and send the whole set back for another set. I have them all at 125lb/ft except #1 & 2 in the sequence at 140 lb/ft. If I can get #3 out, I'll torque it back down and leave everything else alone.
 
Be hard to touch with a drill bit being that They are so hard. Def worth a shot though

phone
 
ClamDigger4 said:
Try to use some type of sleeve so the bit stays in the Center of the stud.

phone
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I'm thinking if I can find one of those pieces you clamp on the bit to limit depth it may also stay centered, if the diameter is small enough.
 
Tried everything I could think of short of the welding rod trick to no avail. Pulled head and it's broke off about 3/4" down in block. Tried again to get it out with no luck. Its like it welded it self in. Damn. I'll try more to get it out, if I can't then I guess I'll have to pull the damn engine back out and take to machine shop I guess. This sucks!


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Option #3, send the studs back for cash in hand and get 625's? Lowering the final torque from 140 to 120 isn't a confidence builder.
 
Yeah we fought for awhile to get the one we broke out. It was a bitc. I think we ended up using a small chisel and getting it to spin that way. Extreme studs was willing to replace broken stud but not the 200+ firering gasket set

phone
 
Yeah I pulled them all out and going to send them all back for refund I think. I tried the chisel method and it didn't help. It almost like it's really hard and brittle. When trying to chisel it chips kind of. Tried drilling on it too with no success really. Going to get some more brand new most expensive bits I can and try to drill it and use an easy out. If that don't working guess I'll have to yank the block back out and take it to a machine shop.

**** at that point might as well rethink the whole build.


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LMK if you have to go that route. I will have my motor out soon and its not going back in, also have some new mahle pistons/rings/rods/arps to go with it. ;)
 
TURBOLVR said:
LMK if you have to go that route. I will have my motor out soon and its not going back in, also have some new mahle pistons/rings/rods/arps to go with it. ;)
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What's going in? Send me a PM on the parts you have. Specs and what your asking. Just so I know.


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DANGIT! Hate to read this man. If you buy some easy outs I have had better luck with the square shaped ones than the twisted style if that makes any sense on a description LOL I usually drive the phucker in with a hammer and get just about anything out. It does a number on the easy out but sometimes desperate people have desperate ways!

That's the best I can tell ya best of luck!
 
zfaylor said:
DANGIT! Hate to read this man. If you buy some easy outs I have had better luck with the square shaped ones than the twisted style if that makes any sense on a description LOL I usually drive the phucker in with a hammer and get just about anything out. It does a number on the easy out but sometimes desperate people have desperate ways!

That's the best I can tell ya best of luck!
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Yeah I know what your talking about. That's what I'm going to try tomorrow.


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I would've started trying to weld on it by now. Actually honestly I probably would've asked my co-worker Jose for help. That man is the broken faster removing expert. I have no idea how he figured it out, but he has gotten out EVERY broken bolt or stud we have ever had. I can try picking his brain tomorrow if you don't have anymore luck
 
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Well tried again on it tonight and it ain't coming out. Bought brand new bits, EZ outs, punches, etc. hopefully I didn't jack up the threads. Gonna have to yank the block and take to machine shop. Might as well re-think my whole build if it's gotta come out again.

What's it take to spin 5,000 rpm?

Maybe a 6.4L build?

Big cam?

13mm pump?


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