24v p-pump and build

T-Case finally came in.

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ahale2772 said:
ick, why a 205?
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Why not? I know some people have blown them apart, but they have held up to alot also. Hell, lots of people have blown up the np241 and n271 also. Swapping out all three bearing retainers with the beefier billet pieces commonly offered and throw a rebuild kit in it. I also wanted to twin stick it, can't do that with np271 or 241. Ron Allen had one behind his 6.7 and it held up. Now I don't plan on sled pulling which is where I think most of the damage can occur due to the not so low "low range".

Well see how long it lasts.
 
I just see no benefit other than someone twin sticking one. Even the , the low range is no better than a 271 or 241

Not to mention they are heavy SOB's
 
ahale2772 said:
I just see no benefit other than someone twin sticking one. Even the , the low range is no better than a 271 or 241

Not to mention they are heavy SOB's
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True, they are heavy. This one weighs in around 162 lbs. The np241 was close to ~100 lbs I would say. The low range is only a ~2.0:1 with the NP205, the others are ~2.7:1. I see the benefit in the twin stick, no slip yoke and all gear driven, no chain. Could be a bad decision, IDK.
 
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Here are the flow numbers from the head Joe at Joker Fab got done.

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He said it still had really good swirl as well and low lift as well. I should be seeing it in the mail soon.


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So the head finally showed up today. Honestly. I'm a little disappointed. The work looks good and I like the manifold, but it took far too long which I was ok with; but upon inspection the head looks gritty or sandy which I feel like I'm going to have to clean it before I can run it. Also no plugs in the tapped holes. Also still need o-rings, which I was going to cut the block with the loaner tool from Joe, but it hasn't shown up yet so I'm not sure now. He was cool about loaning me the tool though, just hope it shows up. Overall I guess he did give me a cheaper price on things since I went with a package deal from him, but it could been a little better. Just my honest assessment. I'll say a 7 out of 10.





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Well spent about 4 hours cleaning head and surfaces and used plenty of ARP ultra-torque following instructions to the tee!! Then on final sequence of 140 lb/ft #3 in the sequence was feeling funny just a split second before SNAP.
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1388965451.205422.jpg

What now?!?!?


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Ghostman said:
So the head finally showed up today. Honestly. I'm a little disappointed. The work looks good and I like the manifold, but it took far too long which I was ok with; but upon inspection the head looks gritty or sandy which I feel like I'm going to have to clean it before I can run it. Also no plugs in the tapped holes. Also still need o-rings, which I was going to cut the block with the loaner tool from Joe, but it hasn't shown up yet so I'm not sure now. He was cool about loaning me the tool though, just hope it shows up. Overall I guess he did give me a cheaper price on things since I went with a package deal from him, but it could been a little better. Just my honest assessment. I'll say a 7 out of 10.





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I agree there about Joker. Your side draft come in filled with shavings and never cleaned out either?
 
ClamDigger4 said:
Same exact thing happened to our 12v extreme studs. How hard did it thread into the block?

phone
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They all went in with my two fingers and I snugged them up only using my fingers/hand. I did chase threads and cleaned them 4 different times. What was y'all's outcome and how did you get stud out?


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Ghostman said:
They all went in with my two fingers and I snugged them up only using my fingers/hand. I did chase threads and cleaned them 4 different times. What was y'all's outcome and how did you get stud out?


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Couple options that I'm not a fan of. Take a small piece of brake line. Find some welding rod that fits into the brake line. Put break line in hole. Stick welding rod in and start small Ark and stick it to broken stud.

Edit-chip of flux so it doesn't get in threads.

Or pull the head off which is what we did

phone
 
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Also he will replace stud for free. He has great customer service.
We ended up sending them back and getting 625s

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ClamDigger4 said:
Couple options that I'm not a fan of. Take a small piece of brake line. Find some welding rod that fits into the brake line. Put break line in hole. Stick welding rod in and start small Ark and stick it to broken stud.

Or pull the head off which is what we did

phone
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I'm thinking I'm going to have to pull head. I think by the time I try dicking around with it I'll be time ahead just pulling head back off.

Think I can reuse gasket? Don't see why not?

TURBOLVR said:
same ones?? http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160507
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Yep. Same.


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