47re Clutch Pack Upgrades

Great thread.

Can anyone show a thread that shows the 48RE issue discussed on the old DTT site? Info doesn't appear like it was transfered to the new DTT website.

Big Blue. Is thread a thread that show your drum mods for better fluid evacuation?
 
Great thread.

Can anyone show a thread that shows the 48RE issue discussed on the old DTT site? Info doesn't appear like it was transfered to the new DTT website.

Big Blue. Is thread a thread that show your drum mods for better fluid evacuation?

that's in his junker truck thread
 
I must have missed the drums mods when I read back through the Junker thread yesterday.
 
Moving on to the main transmission case, there are two clutch packs, one in front of the input shaft hub and one behind the input shaft hub. The one in front is commonly called the direct clutch and the one behind the shaft is commonly called the forward clutch. This terminology is a little confusing but the way I remember is the forward clutch is for forward movement and only disengages when in reverse.

Direct Clutch Pack:
- Has a smooth drum that is wrapped with the 2nd gear band.
- This clutch pack is engaged when the transmission shifts into 3rd gear.
- Stock 47re has (4) frictions in this clutch pack.
- Stock 48re has (5) frictions in this clutch pack.
- There are many different aftermarket drums, pistons, plates, etc for this clutch pack, it's probably the most modifiable pack in the transmission.
- This pack takes a lot of abuse especially on misadjusted transmissions because the 2nd gear band holds the drum stopped in 2nd gear and this clutch pack engages the drum and makes it spin in 3rd. Commonly there is a small bind-up on the 2-3 shift that really puts a lot of wear on this clutch pack, especially if the 2nd gear (aka intermediate) (aka front) servo is worn and leaky.
- Hydraulic pressure pushes a piston that engages this clutch pack.
- If the pump stator and or bushing in the drum is worn, hydraulics leaks cause a loss of pressure behind the piston making this clutch pack susceptible to premature failure.
- In short, if you do anything in your transmission, you should at a minimum upgrade this clutch pack.

The cheapest way to gain more clearance in this pack for additional frictions and steels is to install a different reaction plate. The stock reaction plate is about 0.280" thick. You can buy machined, stepped, altered plates for about $30, or you can buy a used pressure plate from the forward clutch pack for about $4.

In the picture below is the stock 0.280" reaction plate vs a used pressure plate from the forward clutch pack.
11-28Tranny029.jpg


Upgrading this pack is really simple, you can use stock .085" thick frictions and steels and fit 1 extra friction and steel for a total of (5).
Or you can buy stock .070" steels and .065" frictions and fit a total of (6) frictions and (6) steels. If you really want to go extreme, you can fit (7) of the super thin alto frictions and (7) kolene .068" steels but those parts alone will run around $110.

For my truck, I installed (4) 0.065" frictions, (2) 0.085" frictions, and (6) 0.070" steels. There is a clearance specification for this clutch pack so depending on the make of the frictions, sometime you have to get creative with the thickness of the frictions and steels to make the clearance meet specification. On my 47rh transmission in my other truck for example, I used (3) 0.64" frictions and (3) 0.096" frictions with (6) 0.070" steels.

Then top off the clutch pack with the stepped used plate that came from a forward clutch pack pressure plate.
11-28Tranny028.jpg


Then install the waved snap ring and verify proper clearance.
11-28Tranny030.jpg


In this picture you can see the groove in the drum where the snap ring rides. Proper clearance for the clutch pack usually happens when the top of the reaction plate (used stepped forward clutch pressure plate I purchased for $4) is just below the bottom of the waved snap ring groove. As you can see in the picture, there is enough clearance and I of course double checked this with a set of feeler gauges.
11-28Tranny031.jpg


For those wondering where to get different thickness steels and frictions, Wittrans.com has a great selection. Another bit of useful information is that the direct clutches and steels and forward clutches and steels are the same profile, just different thickness so they are 100% interchangeable. Typically the forward clutches are much thinner and therefore you can get more of them to fit in the direct drum.

So if I were to modify a 47re or 48re like this but add in the billet piston that that TCS or DTT have that allows one extra friction and steel, in theory I could get one more set in there than Big Blue did.

Am I correct in my thinking?
 
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So if I were to modify a 47re or 48re like this but add in the billet piston that that TCS or DTT have that allows one extra friction and steel, in theory I could get one more set in there than Big Blue did.

Am I correct in my thinking?


Correct, you can get (7) full thickness clutches in there with the aftermarket piston setup.

In my experience so far, with 1400+ ft lbs/700+ at the wheels, the (6) friction setup is adequate with the elevated line pressure required to make the overdrive brake clutches and forward clutch hold up.

I haven't built a tranny for a 1000 HP, 2000 ft lb truck yet so if I ever get there or get the chance to work on the transmission for one, I'll know for sure what it takes to survive at that level.
 
Does anybody know how to modify(rise) shift points(1-2, 2-3) on a 47RH?
...getting lighter governor could be one option!?? ...or shaving some wight off of it...?!!
I can not find any lighter governor(components) anywhere or any info on the subject...
 
^somehow you are mixing P7100 governor talk into auto trans talk.

there is no spinning governor in a 47 series transmission.

shift points are controlled by the valvebody, in accordance from input by the TPS and the TV cable.
 
^somehow you are mixing P7100 governor talk into auto trans talk.

there is no spinning governor in a 47 series transmission.

shift points are controlled by the valvebody, in accordance from input by the TPS and the TV cable.


There is a governor pump on the RH series. That is how they generate Gov Pressure. 1 PSI per MPH is the goal.
 
^somehow you are mixing P7100 governor talk into auto trans talk.

there is no spinning governor in a 47 series transmission.

shift points are controlled by the valvebody, in accordance from input by the TPS and the TV cable.

...bottom right
#175
 

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V10 RH WOT shifts at 4100/4200
Diesel shifts @ 2800/2900, at least my tranny does...
My goal would be between 3500/3700 @ WOT
 
What is the consensus on valve body work? Do people have their own secrets/mods or mainly going with mainstream kits?
 
The valve body modificatins made are both in nature. Every company has a similar way to produce the same results. Fairbanks shift kits are very effective. THere are other methods and or products used in conjunction with their builds. Everyone has a way of getting these transmissions to hold high power levels some are more effective then others.I personally have rebuilt ats transmissions and the claims they make are mostly lies. I'm very much so a perfectionist. The build is this link is great insight for the novice that wants to give a build a try. I personally have had great luck with alto! The kolene steels hold up much much better to abuse and the red eagle powerpacks are far superior to others. I've seen the testig of alto red eagle clutches in comparison to borge warner and the red eagle clutch coeficient of friction is about 3 times greater. Sonnax servo for the front band is a must to lesson leaks and provide more apply pressure. Also a sonnax accumulator aids leaka with 4 sealing rings and the stock plastic one is in the garbage. And lastly dnj componets has a high flow governor for these units that will greatly reduce leakage and will never flood. It utilizes a 4l60e pressure regulator which is much larger and never floods preventing 2nd gear take off and limp mode. When building any 47rh/re for over 600rwhp a 48re rear planet is a great idea along with a 48re shell and sun gear. A few hundred is a small price in comparison to a planetary gear exploding. I've seen excessive marring of the rear planet and extreme thrust washer wear in as little as 6,000 miles under 500hp. I prefer to machine the planets for torrigton bearings and toss the thrust washers. I have a full 20+ pic run down of the ATS trans i just rebuilt on facebook.com/newlimitmotorsports
 
In my opinion the red sonnax servo causes issues with the 2-3 shift. Really bad binding like its in two gears. Almost feels like it doesn't release fast enough for the 2-3 shift. Several others on this board have had similar issues.
 
The valve body modificatins made are both in nature. Every company has a similar way to produce the same results. Fairbanks shift kits are very effective. THere are other methods and or products used in conjunction with their builds. Everyone has a way of getting these transmissions to hold high power levels some are more effective then others.I personally have rebuilt ats transmissions and the claims they make are mostly lies. I'm very much so a perfectionist. The build is this link is great insight for the novice that wants to give a build a try. I personally have had great luck with alto! The kolene steels hold up much much better to abuse and the red eagle powerpacks are far superior to others. I've seen the testig of alto red eagle clutches in comparison to borge warner and the red eagle clutch coeficient of friction is about 3 times greater. Sonnax servo for the front band is a must to lesson leaks and provide more apply pressure. Also a sonnax accumulator aids leaka with 4 sealing rings and the stock plastic one is in the garbage. And lastly dnj componets has a high flow governor for these units that will greatly reduce leakage and will never flood. It utilizes a 4l60e pressure regulator which is much larger and never floods preventing 2nd gear take off and limp mode. When building any 47rh/re for over 600rwhp a 48re rear planet is a great idea along with a 48re shell and sun gear. A few hundred is a small price in comparison to a planetary gear exploding. I've seen excessive marring of the rear planet and extreme thrust washer wear in as little as 6,000 miles under 500hp. I prefer to machine the planets for torrigton bearings and toss the thrust washers. I have a full 20+ pic run down of the ATS trans i just rebuilt on facebook.com/newlimitmotorsports


Someone has too much play in their planetary assemblies....
 
In my opinion the red sonnax servo causes issues with the 2-3 shift. Really bad binding like its in two gears. Almost feels like it doesn't release fast enough for the 2-3 shift. Several others on this board have had similar issues.


I've noticed this too with a few of my builds. Going slightly looser on the band adjustment seemed to resolve the issue for me but I wonder if others had the same issue. I knew I wasn't losing my mind :hehe:
 
Also, I had a link on this website to my ATS 48re disassembly and was as shocked as you were when I saw what junk they sold and called a Stage 1. Took 6 pinions and factory 5 clutch drum out as well as several other cheap cop-outs on parts and charged in excess of $3000.
 
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