rjp
Go or Blow
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2010
- Messages
- 226
Thanks for the help,something different here that i am not accustom to.Ill figure it out one day.
Got all the parts and started the assembly today.
Just recently lost the bottom end of my 6.7. My truck is in the 900+ hp range and and I'm in the process of rebuilding.If there is anyone in the know of how much piston to valve clearance is needed,are preferred i would greatly appreciate some advice.Here is a pic of the drivers side view.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Official 68RFE Suncoast Test Truck
Did you tack-weld the freeze plugs? If so, sounds easier than drilling and pinning them in.
They are all drilled and pined.I did not pin the ones that are accessible so that if one needed to blow it could and still be changed without to much of a hassle.
coming along nicely
Some pictures of the drilled and pinned plugs? I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to do mine. Are you going to clip the water pump?
Some pictures of the drilled and pinned plugs? I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to do mine. Are you going to clip the water pump?
if you dont mind- how much was the 6.7 block?
RJP i don't know if you have kids or not, but if so, the age old saying about daddy not being a window maker does not apply in your case. LOL
No clipping here.I have my own beliefs about this.The pump is not the issue,it is not capable of building enough pressure to blow a freeze plug.It is a combination of aerated coolant and heat witch always happens close to the area where the most heat is gathered.(TURBOS)I will be using the kit from Shane to keep the that pressure equalized and under control.
So my theory is the pump aerates the coolant under high rpms witch i guess you could say its a pump issue, but not a issue that we could really do anything about except for maybe slowing it down witch may hurt the amount of flow needed to cool.Once this aerated coolant is made it tends to migrate to the back of the block,the way the gasket is constructed it only allows very little coolant to come up in the front of the head where it then gets more flow in each cylinder as you continue to the back of the head.All of these passage ways just add to the aeration that is already induced by the pump.So now you have air in the system witch is now in the rear of the head and just so happens to flow right by the exhaust ports along with the exhaust housing of the turbo that is right next to the #4 and #5 cylinders.Steam has now been made in the back that expands faster than what is going on in the front witch then blows a freeze plug.Any how this is my thoughts witch some may not agree but until someone proves it any different I'm sticking with the above.This is why i went with Shanes bypass as i think its the best option today.
When I brought my head in to get re machined for a different side mount the guy asked me if I knew what caused freeze plugs to blow. I said well from everything I read and understand, the cause is coolant pressure. He said nope, what causes it is cylinder pressure getting into the coolant passages. Otherwise known as a blown headgasket or the head lifting. Any thoughts on this? By the way he is a well known high performance gas engine builder.
nope- pressure from the coolant/ steam pressure
I blew a rear plug after the 1/8 mile-- fun ride- replaced with a EEP coolant bypass and not an issue since