Alluminum Driveshafts?

CREED1

CREED1

Throwed Off
Had to go to a different output and overdrive housing on my drag truck in doing so I need a longer driveshaft 76".. All the driveshaft shops I've spoken with say they cannot do a 1 piece steel that length but they can do it in 5" aluminum.. I opted to go with a place I've used before and dropped off my yoke earlier but I'm still skeptical of it holding up to the abuse I'm going to be giving it. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with them? He did guarantee it not to break or twist but that doesn't mean it wont, I'm the guy that can successfully destroy a sherman tank with a rubber mallet lol..
 
While I have not used an aluminum shaft in a truck but I had one in my procharged camaro SS which was a 6 speed. I had to have it rebuilt once and it is expensive but it seemed have held up OK. The yokes on mine had been wallowed out a little and had to be replaced. I'm assuming that was from the shock of shifting hard. I noticed the vibration before it got too bad. Fwiw. $.02
 
That's weird I had a one piece steel shaft made up for my qc3500 it was 80 something inches long - no issues?
 
I've had a bad experience with aluminium drive shafts . Had one in the rear of my '90 f350 and while pulling a steep hill with about 25k of round bales it said "I quit screw this " and twisted like a licorice stick . Put me in a situation in the dark and cold having to walk get help and still feed cows . Never again and that was a stock 460 , 34" inch tires and 4:10 gears ! I now have .250 wall and 1410 u joints . Never a failure since .
 
weazel said:
700 plus..

I was told anything over 73" center of cap to center of cap needs to be aluminum. Steel over that 73" will whip and cause problems
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You should be able to use steel for that length however you will option a.) Be limited in speed (like 70-100 mph max) if you use the same o.d. and wall as before or option b.) Its gonna be a heavy mofo. Either option is not very useful for a race truck.

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This one is $625 out the door i provided the trans yoke they provided the u joints.. 5" diameter 1/8" wall tube. He says he will guarantee it not to break or give me issues but ive heard that before.. I know what there building is far stronger than any oem driveshaft. Just not sure if I believe it to be as strong as he is thinking it will be but at this point I don't have any other options steel isn't able to be used and only other 2 options are go back to a stock 2wd od housing and output shaft or shorten the wheelbase of the truck, or set motor an trans back and thats not happening. Guess time will tell if it holds up or not.
 
I had a 5" aluminum shaft made for my 02 eclb and has been holding up great for 2 years now it was only $550 out the door made with Spicer u-joints and yokes.
 
I never had that truck on the rollers if I was to guess 600-650hp at the wheels, I also used that truck to pull a 35ft goose neck loaded with any where up to 12tons on it. This summer it will be getting a good testing once the new motor gets put in, hoping to be pushing the 1k mark on the rollers. IMO its the only kind I would run now, its super light which makes handling it very easy and if its really light that means less rotating mass which is always better in my book.
 
CREED1 said:
This one is $625 out the door i provided the trans yoke they provided the u joints.. 5" diameter 1/8" wall tube. He says he will guarantee it not to break or give me issues but ive heard that before.. I know what there building is far stronger than any oem driveshaft. Just not sure if I believe it to be as strong as he is thinking it will be but at this point I don't have any other options steel isn't able to be used and only other 2 options are go back to a stock 2wd od housing and output shaft or shorten the wheelbase of the truck, or set motor an trans back and thats not happening. Guess time will tell if it holds up or not.
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I think that may be thicker than the stock Duramax shafts... but I could be wrong... When I have seen them split and unfold on the tract a few times they seemed much thinner than I expected.

Is the tube seamed or seamless? I would think that would make a huge difference in strength!!! DOM being better than EW tube.
 
Not sure of the length, but Brian Parkers RCLB race truck has an aluminum shaft and has held up fine.
 
Bigphil54 said:
You should be able to use steel for that length however you will option a.) Be limited in speed (like 70-100 mph max) if you use the same o.d. and wall as before or option b.) Its gonna be a heavy mofo. Either option is not very useful for a race truck.

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not my steel one. It is larger dia. Then stock and raced with it and been well above 120 many times. Plus many boosted 4wd launches. Maybe my guy sprinkled some magic pixie dust on it after it was dynamically balanced.:hehe:
 
The guy did tell me its close to double the wall thickness of most oem shafts. I did not however ask if it was seamless or seamed that didnt even cross my mind but good point ill have to ask tommorow when I pick it up not sure what to think of it guess if it breaks back to the drawing board.
 
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