Engine rebuild specialty tools..

rebar

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Sep 11, 2012
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Can someone tell me what rebuild specialty tools I will need to order for my 1st gen please. I'm surprised I cant find anyone asking the same question.

I know of only one thing I don't have, but knowing whats ahead and what I will need would keep things moving before all work stops and then waiting game..

Thanks
 
Torque wrenches, ring compressor, feeler gauges, plastigauge, snap ring pliers, dial indicator/base
 
Torque wrenches, ring compressor, feeler gauges, plastigauge, snap ring pliers, dial indicator/base

Check.. Got all those.

Only thing on my list is the barring tool. Isn't there a special tool for installing the main seals I think I heard?
 
Don't necessarily need a barring tool and the ring to install the seals come with the seals themselves
 
Yea there's a rear main installer that presses it on perfectly square. I've never bought one, but I would like to.
 
Yea there's a rear main installer that presses it on perfectly square. I've never bought one, but I would like to.

So the rear main installer isn't necessary.. Great, thanks.


Instead of starting another topic.. Which rebuild kit should I buy?

Pure diesel power's, mumau diesel's, or enterprise engine's? Other?

I want to stud the head, good valve springs, and on the bottom end install A1 rod bolts, stud the mains, and total seal rings. Suggestions on where, and what brand for those things would be appreciated. I will also have the head rebuilt locally.

Will I need a new camshaft?

Thanks again..

[ame="http://s640.photobucket.com/user/re-rod/media/Van/91D9CB73-B36A-4C7E-B7B8-8E2CBE6F5898-3504-000001CA67BEC4AA_zpsb08c9144.jpg.html"]91D9CB73-B36A-4C7E-B7B8-8E2CBE6F5898-3504-000001CA67BEC4AA_zpsb08c9144.jpg Photo by re-rod | Photobucket[/ame]
 
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So the rear main installer isn't necessary.. Great, thanks.


Instead of starting another topic.. Which rebuild kit should I buy?

Pure diesel power's, mumau diesel's, or enterprise engine's? Other?

I want to stud the head, good valve springs, and on the bottom end install A1 rod bolts, stud the mains, and total seal rings. Suggestions on where, and what brand for those things would be appreciated. I will also have the head rebuilt locally.

Will I need a new camshaft?

Thanks again..

91D9CB73-B36A-4C7E-B7B8-8E2CBE6F5898-3504-000001CA67BEC4AA_zpsb08c9144.jpg Photo by re-rod | Photobucket

It's possible after you put rod bolts and main studs in you'll need to hone them out to re-true them, typically once higher torque from a fastener is on the main bore will distort as well as the rods.

Doesn't anyone near you have a dial bore gauge you can check them with?
 
It's possible after you put rod bolts and main studs in you'll need to hone them out to re-true them, typically once higher torque from a fastener is on the main bore will distort as well as the rods.

Doesn't anyone near you have a dial bore gauge you can check them with?

The dial bore gauge is one thing I don't have but could probably obtain..

Is that step (A1 rod bolts, stud the mains) a step I shouldn't skip for a mild cummins designed for mileage and towing?
 
The dial bore gauge is one thing I don't have but could probably obtain..

Is that step (A1 rod bolts, stud the mains) a step I shouldn't skip for a mild cummins designed for mileage and towing?

In my opinion if your not going to turn lots of rpm don't do rod bits and the mains won't benefit much if your just gonna drive it
 
Best tool I've found for rebuilding an engine, when you don't do it on a daily basis, is the service manual.

You can use QuickServe and get it all for free online. I found someone selling a set of them on one of these forums and bought them. I like to have hard copies.

When you get to a point where you don't understand something, or find that you "need" a tool for a specific job, just get online and search. There are probably a few people who have "been there, done that" and will have excellent advice.

This forum has a wealth of knowledge for you to search out.
 
In my opinion if your not going to turn lots of rpm don't do rod bits and the mains won't benefit much if your just gonna drive it

Is it common practice to replace any bolts other than head studs?
Sounds like I would be ok running the original rod and main bolts.

Best tool I've found for rebuilding an engine, when you don't do it on a daily basis, is the service manual.

You can use QuickServe and get it all for free online. I found someone selling a set of them on one of these forums and bought them. I like to have hard copies.

When you get to a point where you don't understand something, or find that you "need" a tool for a specific job, just get online and search. There are probably a few people who have "been there, done that" and will have excellent advice.

This forum has a wealth of knowledge for you to search out.

Iv got Geno's service manual on CD but haven't read the entire thing. Only as needed right now.

The wife and I want the big "D" So I need to get this done asap and leave a major burn out infront of the house as Im leaving, to break in the new rings of course.
 
Is it common practice to replace any bolts other than head studs?
Sounds like I would be ok running the original rod and main bolts.



Iv got Geno's service manual on CD but haven't read the entire thing. Only as needed right now.

The wife and I want the big "D" So I need to get this done asap and leave a major burn out infront of the house as Im leaving, to break in the new rings of course.

That will sure show her
 
It's possible after you put rod bolts and main studs in you'll need to hone them out to re-true them, typically once higher torque from a fastener is on the main bore will distort as well as the rods.

Doesn't anyone near you have a dial bore gauge you can check them with?

any time one goes form OEM bolts to ARP or the like its absolutely nessaary to bore/hone the areas IE rods and mains... i read that some took a dmax block with TQ plate from oem bolt to head studs. the walls flexed enough that if pushed hard could cause piston bind up.


if you arent planning on pushing it hard.. i dont see why stock OEM rods and mains wouldnt be a problem.. especaily giving your situation less money less machine time quicker turn around.. i would have them checked to make sure they are in spec though
 
That will sure show her

Yea sorry, that comment was after a few beers and rounded bolt heads last night.

if you aren't planning on pushing it hard.. i don't see why stock OEM rods and mains wouldnt be a problem.. especially giving your situation less money less machine time quicker turn around.. i would have them checked to make sure they are in spec though

I guess it depends on what pushing it hard means to you.. I pushed it so hard towing my toy-hauler it failed. Lugging it in 5th towing and not really knowing what my actual pre-turbo egt's were. Just guessing from the post egt's of 900+.



Is there any other parts supplier out there that helps as much as "the" Mumau? No. Hands down I would have him.
Mumau all the way!

Great. I will give them a call Monday
 
I guess it depends on what pushing it hard means to you.. I pushed it so hard towing my toy-hauler it failed. Lugging it in 5th towing and not really knowing what my actual pre-turbo egt's were. Just guessing from the post egt's of 900+.


im talking over 500hp and sustain EGT over 1400*
IIRC the 5.9BT are rated for sustain 1300*


what actually failed?
mods done to the engine?
 
what actually failed?
mods done to the engine?

I started blowing white startup smoke after towing a 8000# toyhauler to colorado. Then by the time I got back home, I had oil blowing out of my dipstick tube. Turbo is ok, but Im thinking a injector might have washed a cylinder.. rings failed as I see light scoring.
 
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