Engine rebuild specialty tools..

[rebar]

M8-1.25 x 50ish capscrews, to pull the IP gear.

 

[rebar]

M8-1.25 x 50ish capscrews, to pull the IP gear borrowed from the rocker lever pedestals.

 

[rebar]

It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like it was spraying outside the bowl some but I could be wrong. I'm also not so sure you have a non i/c engine. I see 7mm injectors, intercooled style injector lines, intercooled deliver valves, and 5 hole spray pattern. It could still be a non i/c engine with the stuff swapped onto it but that seems like a lot of work to me.

It is a 1990. Did they offer IC in 90?

 

[white93]

No i/c in a dodge in '90 unless somebody installed one at some point. From the pics it looks like its a newer engine.

 

[rebar]

My Machinist mentioned the cylinders didn't look so bad, but still no word yet.

I spoke with Zach Hamilton about his 178-208 cam. But after I explained what I wanted from my tow vehicle he said..

""If it were mine, I would get a htbg 57mm s-300 with a 14cm housing and pair it up with a 188-208 cam. That will be enough air to cool your egts quite a bit. On injectors, there are a few options available. You should verify with the choice with an injector company, but I would run a 5x.012" which is a 5 hole nozzle with a .012" orifice , if you want to lean towards economy or 5x.014" if you want to lean towards performance. Also, I would go vco not sac style.""

Think his suggestion is a good plan?

I'm also giving up on Jeff at Mumau Diesel.. I talked to him and it seemed he wanted to help me out. But I then sent a more detailed email which was never answered. Even after I called back and asked a employee to remind him to answer.. Nothing.

So I'm tempted to order my rebuild kit from Cummins Performance Parts since Zach linked to it for whatever reason. Decent vendor?

 

[RCCUMMINS89]

5x11-5x13 Injector would be what I would recommend.

I personally would go SAC over VCO

An htbg is an htt turbo and they are quite a bit more than the same exact turbo from BD.... which on a 1st gen, one might as well just buy the "turbo only", which USUALLY can be had for under $1100.00 (as opposed to the $1300-$1400 for the "kit")


But his recommendation for fueling to air...I would definitely agree with and recommend all the time.

 

[rebar]

Thanks..

I just got a call from my machinist..

He said #1 cylinder had been re sleeved.
A hone job was all that was needed to get the bores in good shape.
Pistons are stock and in reusable condition!
Head needed decked and now only needs valve stem seals to be ready.
Last three crank main bearing surfaces need turned, and he was surprised the bearings didn't spin.

So its good news, but leaves me wondering where all the blow-by came from if the rings didn't fail.
And what took out the last three crank main bearing surfaces? Anyone?

Did this cause the blow by?

 

[diesel_importer]

I wouldn't waste money on a cam. That's just my opinion, but people have made lots of power on stock cams, good fuel mileage, etc. I would spend it elsewhere.

 

[cumminsman315]

Did this cause the blow by?

Yes, that passage is the gasket where the fire ring burned up is an oil passage where the oil goes up into the head, therefore compression was going into the crankcase and everywhere else.

If I had to guess, I would say all that compression contaminating the oil caused the mains to get so tore up. Most engine failures are closely related to oiling problems.

 

[rebar]

I wouldn't waste money on a cam. That's just my opinion, but people have made lots of power on stock cams, good fuel mileage, etc. I would spend it elsewhere.

I wouldn't if mine was OK. Mines chewed up and needs replaced. Or ground.

Yes, that passage is the gasket where the fire ring burned up is an oil passage where the oil goes up into the head, therefore compression was going into the crankcase and everywhere else.

If I had to guess, I would say all that compression contaminating the oil caused the mains to get so tore up. Most engine failures are closely related to oiling problems.

So as I was pushing oil out with blow by, fuel was taking its place?

That chunk of fire ring might have ended up in the bearing as well.

 

[rebar]

So here we are the next year and the rebuilt short block and tee shirt weather awaits me..:Cheer:

I'm AM feeling it, and Need to make this happen on my own.:blahblah1:


Anyone on board? because Iv got some questions. :blahblah1:


I guess without further ado.. :blahblah1:


What sealer do I want to look for and use while assembling to the point where I can paint the engine? The head and oil pan need to remain off until the short block is in the van.

And how do I seal the oil return? Its just press fit, and will turn with force.

Feel free to comment about the differences between silicone intake boots, and the old fashioned stock Aramid fiber hose..

:thankyou2: