Engine rebuild specialty tools..

I started blowing white startup smoke after towing a 8000# toyhauler to colorado. Then by the time I got back home, I had oil blowing out of my dipstick tube. Turbo is ok, but Im thinking a injector might have washed a cylinder.. rings failed as I see light scoring.

If you are the same I seen on another forum, 6bt in an E350, you found a great spot for a wealth of info on these engines. Get a good rebuild kit and get it back together and get that egt probe in the right spot.

There isn't a whole lot of specialty tools required for these engines. Pretty simple to build too
 
There isn't a whole lot of specialty tools required for these engines. Pretty simple to build too

Yup, that's me. Seems like when I ask to many questions people stop answering so I spread them out.

Like this one..

Which head bolts are best to attach a short length of chain to for lifting? I was thinking the front half of the engine would be heavier than the back so pick from between #4 and #3 and strap the front to the cherry picker arm for angle adjustment? I imagine it probably says in the service manual but time isn't on my side right now.

Thanks!

Oh, Im not sure on the mods done. Something about a fuel screw which I will look into when there.
 
Which head bolts are best to attach a short length of chain to for lifting? I was thinking the front half of the engine would be heavier than the back so pick from between #4 and #3 and strap the front to the cherry picker arm for angle adjustment? I imagine it probably says in the service manual but time isn't on my side right now.

doesnt matter as long as they are short enough to not bend.. or take washers/sockets to keep the chain close to the deck surface so you dont bent the bolt
 
Yup, that's me. Seems like when I ask to many questions people stop answering so I spread them out.

Like this one..

Which head bolts are best to attach a short length of chain to for lifting? I was thinking the front half of the engine would be heavier than the back so pick from between #4 and #3 and strap the front to the cherry picker arm for angle adjustment? I imagine it probably says in the service manual but time isn't on my side right now.

Thanks!

Oh, Im not sure on the mods done. Something about a fuel screw which I will look into when there.

It would be good to find out what injectors are in there and what work has been done. Give these guys here a little more of the story and they will get you set straight.
 
It would be good to find out what injectors are in there and what work has been done. Give these guys here a little more of the story and they will get you set straight.

I figured Id send my injectors to whoever I buy my gear from. But Id bet they are stock bosch. If appearance counts for anything the injectors are junk. I need to call mumau tomorrow. Hopefully mumau has enough patience to set me up with everything I need.

A cummins engine stand isn't easy to find I now see.
 
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Jeff is a great guy to deal with, but is a busy man. The engine stand can be a bear finding an affordable one. I think in the shop talk section of this site there is a thread on engine stands.
 
I think this might work after I replace the boom bolt with a longer one and washers.

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A cummins engine stand isn't easy to find I now see.[/QUOTE]

You don't need anything special, I have one sitting sideways on just a old U haul engine stand works fine you just need a big bar to flop it over. Be careful though when you get over center it want's to go quick.
 
Well, the engine, and my back, are both out!

All good suggestions, keep them coming. thanks

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Hey.. unclicking Link Back to Albums worked..

And what the frick do I do here..?
 
I think I may have learned why the engine failed. I fellow told me I had marine injectors. Who knows how long they had been washing the cylinders if they are and maybe time to replace them..
Unless building with marine pistons is a better option. How can I confirm that? And surprised, how, what, like 10 degrees difference, could have that effect.

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And can someone tell me where engine overhaul is covered in the FSM? Wish I would have bought the paperback
 
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Put up the pics of your pistons showing the spray patterns.



Do you know what year dodge your engine came from? If 89-early 91 then the 370 injectors are the

correct spray angle.





Sent from my primeco phone
 
Put up the pics of your pistons showing the spray patterns.

Not sure on what you mean by that. "showing the spray patterns."?


Do you know what year dodge your engine came from? If 89-early 91 then the 370 injectors are the correct spray angle.

Its a 1990 with a IC added.

Would the numbers on the injectors match the timing gear cover ID plate injector numbers if stock?

Honestly, Iv been dragging my feet tearing into this engine. I figured Id better read up how dodge recommends disassembling it but cant find the engine rebuild instructions in the FSM. Only bits and pieces and Im starting to doubt my abilities to reassemble it correctly since I have NO experiance with diesel rebuilds. The only other engine Iv rebuilt was a 318 25 years ago and I had a book called..[ame="http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Mopar-Engines/dp/0895861283"]How to Rebuild Small-Block Mopar Engines: Don Taylor: 0075478001286: Amazon.com: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51YFEM5EWKL.@@AMEPARAM@@51YFEM5EWKL[/ame]. I wish something like that existed for the cummins.
 
This picture.


I believe you said you were in quickserve? If not, get on there and put in your ESN and pull the manual. It is very self explanatory if you have been in an engine before.
 

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It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like it was spraying outside the bowl some but I could be wrong. I'm also not so sure you have a non i/c engine. I see 7mm injectors, intercooled style injector lines, intercooled deliver valves, and 5 hole spray pattern. It could still be a non i/c engine with the stuff swapped onto it but that seems like a lot of work to me.
 
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