lets see pics of traction bars

^^^I have them on my truck and would recommend them! I had Jamie make me a custom set ( longer ) i havent had any issues with them, very well built!
 
East Coast Diesel traction bars

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What do you guys think about this design? I saw it on fb and I am wondering if this would be considered over kill.

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They are the strongest looking bars I've come across sold by a vendor! Your not breaking these!
 
young12valve said:
What do you guys think about this design? I saw it on fb and I am wondering if this would be considered over kill.

289062_193954710667083_100001576664523_532477_8063818_o.jpg
Click to expand...

Well past overkill unless their planning on only using the springs for lateral stability.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
 
Alright guys. After looking at 28 pages of ladder bars, it seems as though there are a million and one ways to make them. So, I have just a few questions. I am working on a work stock puller. I want the use of my suspension, per the rules I need to allow for 3" of suspension travel. From what I gather the bars need to be at the same angle as the drive shaft to prevent binding, correct? Also if I want full use of my suspension the bars need to be hinged at either end. If I weld the bars to the axle housing and hinge them on the frame I will still get binding of the suspension, correct? But if I hinge either end of the bar will I completely eliminate the axle wrap?

Also I was considering making a set of triangular ladders bars. With one main bar running from the underside of the axle to the frame. A second bar from above the axel back to the main bar. if I do this all 3 points need to be hinged, correct? And if the top bar is level and not at the same angle as the drive shaft will it cause binding.

I was considering using 1.5" steel tubing with 0.125" wall thickness. Will this be heavy enough?

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Never built a set of ladder bars before and my dad and I are going round and round about how to build them. Thanks.
 
RockinRam96 said:
I want the use of my suspension, per the rules I need to allow for 3" of suspension travel. From what I gather the bars need to be at the same angle as the drive shaft to prevent binding, correct?
Click to expand...
I would believe the suspension travel would be from what your suspension stops were set at. Same angle as the driveshaft? If you had a four link rear setup or something similar I can follow, but the leaf springs are the rear suspension. They're not known for big articulation, they're limited by length and spring rate. The bars are to prevent the pinion from seeing what the bed floor looks like. To stop or limit the axles natural upward rotation under throttle. Keeping in mind, this adds stress to the axle tubes. The pinion always wants to rotate up even with bars being added. By isolating the tubes, you will always run the risk of the center section still rotating, breaking the plug welds. Welding the tubes to the center section and or adding a pinion link will help stop that movement and binding won't be an issue. But, it's going to take some horsepower to break those plug welds.

I threw a vid together a few years back. My friends 97 Ford, twin turbo 12v. I mounted a camera under his truck (pre-GoPro and its mounting gear) LOL before and after the traction bars. The bars mounted to the leaf spring u-bolt plate, not welded to the axle. Just shows a before and after.

Before
http://youtu.be/3g6pSk-8oAE

After
http://youtu.be/h2DgTMNT1Hs
 
cumminsman315 said:
But in the video they also were not welded to the axle, just the leaf spring brackets
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I still think that is a lot of movement with a traction bar. Maybe I just assumed that they bars eliminated more wrap than that. I would say most of bars the are attached to the leaf spring brackets in some way. I guess I need to attach my gopro to our puller and our drag truck to see how our bars work, which are attached to the leaf spring brackets.
 
cumminsman315 said:
But in the video they also were not welded to the axle, just the leaf spring brackets
Click to expand...
Correct

97crewcab said:
I would say most of bars the are attached to the leaf spring brackets in some way. I guess I need to attach my gopro to our puller and our drag truck to see how our bars work, which are attached to the leaf spring brackets.
Click to expand...
I have brackets welded to the tube.

I still need a damn GoPro
hehe.gif
 
trac bar set up...?

im gonna make a set of trac bars for my truck this weekend, and i've seen people on here say to make them long as possiable... but a old timer told me to make them the same angle as your driveshaft..... so when your truck sqwats goin down the track the bars wont work/ fight against each other and put extra stress on the drivetrain. any truth to what the old er and wiser ex 4wd truck puller told me or is he just old and crazy?
 
This has been discussed before on here. With that said, the answer is kindof. The reason for the "driveshaft rule" is for long travel off road suspensions that would need a ton of slip yoke if the suspension didn't cycle in the same arc as the driveshaft. Also, they need to be the same length as your driveshaft if you want to follow the rule precisely because even if the bars/link are parallel with the driveshaft they won't cycle in the same arc if they have different lengths. Meaning your frame mounts would need to be at the same spot (front to rear along the frame) as your last pivot point of the driveshaft before the axle, whether that's the output of your transfer case or your carrier bearing. Unless your building a prerunner or rock crawler, don't worry about it.
 
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