Old School HX35/HT3B vs Modern Compound Setup

Sorry for not reading the entire 6 pages of this thread.

I have acquired a HT3B off of a 400 Big Cam Cummins that seems to be in decent shape. all the oil passages were sealed up, due to being on the motor until a few weeks ago, and the turbine and compressor wheel spin freely. I am curious what needs to be run for fuel to have a drivable HX35, HT3B twins set up. I think it would be a fun project and I can do it fairly cheaply having both chargers.

Can I run stock injectors with a tuner and a programmer? Or can I run stock software with a set of injectors?

This will be on a 2000 24 valve.
 
Not all HT3B's are the same, measure the wheels and turbine housing... chances are it's a 30 something housing which is decently large compared to the 23 or 26-27cm housings used in small/tow compounds. You should be able to use stock injectors and a tuner. I'm not a 24v or tuner kind of guy, but I would think stock software with big injectors would not do as well. But if you can't find info I suggest doing it and relaying the information as you go.
 
Big injectors with stock tuning does better then you think, I ran 6x.013's with a 62/65/12 over HT3B/26 and it spooled faster than stock and could hit 55psi total and 18psi primary. Never saw above 1150° either.
 
Wow! I wasn't looking for that much manifold pressure. I didn't think one of these little motors could drive that charger that hard.

I figured tuners with added timing would help spool up more than fuel. How big are those 6x0.018? I'm kind of injector dumb.

How was smoke control with that setup?
 
It could really used less tire, but those wheels limited me. The new looser DPC converter helped out alot, I think with a cam swap and a few other details the truck will be balanced out.
 
I have 22x12s so its hard to get a smaller tire for them. There is already only a a couple inches of side wall. I also had my converter loosened by DPC and have a 1500ish flash stall. I wish it was 1800 but Im not pulling the trans again, cant have the truck down for another week its my work truck

I might go to 20x12 and 32s then take the leveling kit out and cut down the factory rear blocks down to lower the truck. I think its gonna be much quicker with the smaller tire.
 
Truck has been down for a little while... BUT it's currently in the early stages of a G56 swap. Seems the steep gearing of the G56 should match up well with 3.54 rear gears and the 315/75/16's. I'll update as the project progresses.

G56
1st: 6.29
2nd: 3.48
3rd: 2.10
4th: 1.38
5th: 1.00
6th: .79
R: 6.29

The 47RE and parts are listed in the for sale section.
 
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The G56 swap was a success! I'm running a Valair Comp dual disc clutch that came with the trans and my 241DHD that I changed from 23 to 29 spline for the manual. I shortened the rear driveshaft and had the front one lengthened. I also had to modify my factory 47RE crossmember to lower the transmission slightly and move the mount a little to the rear. Other than that, everything else bolted up... no starter spacer, nothing, except cutting a hole in the floor for the stick and larger boot.

I have plenty of pictures from the swap, but I have to delete some old pictures from my album to make room for more. I will say the truck is a different animal with a G56. I've yet to make a long tow trip, but just running a trailer around the block proves it's a better towing machine already. Unfortunately, due to my shifting ability, or disability, the truck has slowed significantly. However you can feel the power going to the ground in each gear and the compounds seem to synch up with the shifting giving the rig a more useful power band in each gear.

I'll be back with pictures once I make some room.
 
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Two things.

First a few pictures of the most involved part of the G56 swap the crossmember. I was told to get a wide version, but I'm hearing people having clearance issues with the 271 flange or driveshaft. So I stuck with the one I had.

The album isn't big enough for all the pictures and if anyone takes this swap on and wants some more just PM me and I'll email them.

Where I cut.
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Cut crossmember.
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Drilling holes after it was tacked together. This shows a little bit of the offest compared the 47RE.
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Welded piece.
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Finish product.
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Second it's time to get serious about tuning the truck up to run right. I towed my Duramax a few weeks ago and the bouncing hasn't changed much. I will say that towing has also slowed down compared to the automatic. The truck was down for a while during the swap and I couldn't test what I changed. So, I've got the parts and next week I'll start having the time.

Timing: It seems the many of you feel the timing is off, which I agree with. I think it's the biggest issue with my truck and I'm finally going to fix it. 17.5 degress static with plunger lift had me around 10 degress on the timing light. I don't have the diesel timing light available to me anymore [unless someone in Central OH does] so I'm going to have to go off of plunger lift. I think I'm going to get as close to 21 as I can and see how that works. The truck does run a little cooler in OH than it did in NM, but it's still WAY too hot. Runs about 900 down the road at 60mph.

Fuel: Hooked up my fuel gauge to the pump and it's still losing pressure up top. So I'm going to buy a Beans Sump and run that to the factory stuff. I have a MITUSA and two filter heads I had ultimately planned to install, but if the sump and bigger line fixes my issue, why waste the money? It's just a farm truck.

Delivery Valves: I have 7mm DVS, but I'm going to hold off on those until I get things squared away elsewhere. At the moment I get a puff starting off, and slight haze going down the road. Obviously I need no extra fuel, but perhaps after other things are fix I can add a little to the mix. For now factory 181's are doing fine.

Cam and valvetrain: My truck falls flat on it's face after 2600rpm. Maybe my valvesprings are tired, but I'm going to check all other areas [fuel, timing, etc] before installing the cam, springs, pushrods, and tappets so I can give a accurate account of how the cam helped or didn't help. It's all Hamilton stuff. This will also give me a chance to fix my timing case that has a little crack.

AFC and AFC live: I guess to understand the full benefit of AFC live I would need to better understand how to tune my truck. I'm thinking about buying on of these kits to help me tune as I drive and maybe take some of the mystery and time out of tuning the AFC on this truck. It would also seem to give me a "tow tune" and "street tune" by dialing in the knobs, that is about the coolest thing for 12v motors since the Ppump came along.

Governer Springs: I'm starting over with the GSK. It's been like 8 years since I installed Peaks Diesel's 4000rpm GSK. At the time I remember people claming "4000 is good for sticks, 3000 for auto" but has anything changed since then? I don't plan on revving much over 3600rpm. Should I be looking for something better? If not I'm starting over with the GSK. I can't remember how or what I put in there, if it's got the spring for 4000 or 3000, so I'm pulling it all out and reinstalling it. I'll be posting pictures and requesting advice about setting those up. I think that's a good place to start.

Exhaust leaks: I did find a gasket leaking on #6 at the manifold during the G56 swap. I fixed that, but it seems the 4 center section bolts on the HX35 want to back out. Does anyone think that locktite would stand up to that heat or would lock washers be my only option?

Drive Pressures and Turbo pressures: I've got ports in my manifold and turbo piping the take these readings. Can anyone point me in the direction for what to buy to check drive pressure? Should I be mounting drive gauge in the cab permanently? I mean it doesn't change too much does it, or would it be used detect exhaust leaks or other issues? If there is a good thread on this stuff please post it, I need to better understand it.

Waste gate: My old spring setup fell apart during one of my 1800 mile trips and now it's wired shut. I'm going to get another one on there quick, but I have one of these http://www.engineereddiesel.com/wastegates should I invest the money to use it instead? It's the T3 plate and has the round waste gate flange. I have no other parts for it. Now, the HX35 has a larger waste gate hole and flapper with a 14cm housing and it dumps into the hot pipe. Should I be trying to dump the ED gate into the downpipe as well? Again, I'm not up on this stuff.

For the guy talking about the posi causing bounce. My posi is officially locked. I'm not sure if that would change your opinion, but it's somehow fused itself together.

I'm probably forgetting something else, but that's the bulk of it. Any help getting my old 12v running proper would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I sold my Duramax so the Cummins went from backup to workhorse again. Let me just say it's a totally different truck to tow with, man did I miss it! I've towed a few times with it since the G56 swap and the bouncing is still there. After towing a car home, my buddy noticed some axle wrap as I was moving my empty truck in his driveway. Here is a video of the wrap in grass with my empty gooseneck. It seemed to be worse with more air I had in the firestone air bags. The wrap also seemed to be worse with the trailer compared to empty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9Up3ukSSxo

Seeing that I'm going to be towing a lot this month I bit the bullet and ordered some Caltracs. I don't really care for the long bars that most oralers are wearing out and these seemed like they'd give me the benefits I'm looking for without the low hanging fruit. I hope to get them on Friday and I'll report back with a video and results.

Waste gate: I found a good sized spring at rural king and put it on. The truck seems to run better, but it could be a placebo. I'm going to fire up this new GoPro and take video of when it's opening.

Next up is governor spring adjustment and timing advancement.
 
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just read through this whole thread. lots of good info. especially for us new guys to all of this diesel stuff. im wanting to do a hx35\Ht3b compound setup. cheap and easy from everything ive read. keep up the good work.
 
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