Old School HX35/HT3B vs Modern Compound Setup

JQmile said:
I just re-read your whole thread, and I think it's your timing that's causing the EGT issue. Another member just had the same thing on here. On my 89, we found out it was accidentally retarded a tooth on the gear when I got it (9 deg on a light) which is probably why I could bury the pyro at 1600 in second gear. We skipped it two teeth ahead, plus part way to the head (27 deg on a light) and I didn't see anything above 1400 until OD and 100+mph. Also, lots of power, spooling was terrible, and my old battery wouldn't even start it. So, there's a happy point, but I run 22 deg on my 95 with the 57/71mm twins, and I love how it works.

As far as whether or not to upgrade, I don't think you'd see much of a difference unless you did something crazy, like twin Garrett GTX ball bearing chargers. I'm looking at switching the 71mm k31 on mine to an 80mm S400, the 71mm actually starts to spool too fast, and slows the 57 down when it is trying to light.
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Thanks for that info, I've brought up the light vs plunger thing but it seems people either do one or the other. I agree, being retarded a tooth or something is probably why I've seen as much as 80psi without head gasket issues on factory bolts. It's also why I can bury my pyro with ease even with the intercooler upgrade and twins. Perhaps I should look into studs before I add timing.

Are you running 22 on the light or plunger? I can't remember what I wrote but I think mine is 17.5 plunger and 9-11 on the light. My diesel buddy and I talked about the difference, but never ended up doing much about it.

Good info on the chargers, one of these days [when I get 4th gear and timing right] I'm gonna throw some gauges on the ports I have between stages and stuff and see what it's doing.

Again, thanks for the insight.
 
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Headcase98002 said:
How long have you been pushing 80psi on factory head bolts? I pushed 75psi for year before mine blew.
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Shoot, even with studs, 65psi x 2 years, mine blew. Thinking it may have not been the best from the beginning though.

Edit: On the 95, the 89 is holding tough.
 
I don't take it to 80psi much, but it's been there and hasn't blown yet. I think the first time I hit 80 was maybe 3 years ago. I took the truck to the strip to see what it would do and it split an intercooler boot right after it hit 2nd gear and locked. I coasted the rest of the track and still beat a convertible SN95. The hour drive home required some creativity though.

I haven't taken it up there in about 8-9 months, then again I'm trying to keep projects on the road instead of in the shop.

JQmile. I remember the rust bucket getting a re-torque, at what point did you feel that wasn't enough on either truck? I've debating doing a "quality" re-torque and seeing how long it'd last. Of course no one local Orings heads.
 
Well trying to getting caught up on some truck work.

Installing Ported HTT Manifold
Installing Rancho 9000 shocks
Removing the stack [Oralers]
Pulling the OD
Installing Pusher Pump [Probably Carter 4601HP]
Add timing [Per JQmile, hoping that gasket doesn't pop]

Was going to install my E.D. waste gate plate but I don't have a cap or waste gate for it and I just don't think my setup justifies the need for it. I'll probably just sell it off for now.

It seems I already ran into a snag on my HTT manifold. It's used cause I'm cheap, and it seems that one side of 3 pieces is pressed too far into the center section for my manifold bolts to go in. Has anyone lightly hammered the ends in or out? Maybe taken them all the way apart?

I'm not looking for gains vs my factory ported manifold, but the factory one shrunk and the bolts were getting pulled towards the middle.

I'll add some pictures tonight of a gasket leak I found, welded HTT, and the manifold length issue.
 
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Bersaglieri said:
It seems I already ran into a snag on my HTT manifold. It's used cause I'm cheap, and it seems that one side of 3 pieces is pressed too far into the center section for my manifold bolts to go in. Has anyone lightly hammered the ends in or out? Maybe taken them all the way apart?
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Yes, you can lightly tap it in or out. Be careful and don't whack it too hard with a hammer, its cast iron.
 
Put the HTT manifold on a while back. Didn't notice a big difference over the ported stocker, but the turbos do sing slightly different on hard throttle.

Did a full rebuild on the 47RE, had Phil @ DPC loosen the converter, and had Garmon add 2nd gear lockup to the valve body. I just finished the install tonight so I'm going to drive it with the new converter a while and get a baseline before changing anything else. So far it seem like it'll tow much better without a 1200-1300rpm flash stall. [Suncoast 44 series].

Rear cam plug is leaking, so the 181/210 Hamilton, valve springs, and tappets will go in soon. Evidently the new cat's meow is the 188, but for my modest needs I'm sure the 181 will do. My cam gear is walking off as well which really forces the whole swap. I'll probably bump the timing before that install takes place though. I'm hoping to document some before and after results of the cam swap.

Was going to get the 4601hp, but I'm holding out for the designer of the belt driven fuel pump DTT used to sell. He's supposedly making a better design after DTT shafted him.

Used some spare piping to build a side exit 5" exhaust while the trans was out and replaced the stock transcooler with a B&M super cooler.
 
JQmile said:
I'm looking at switching the 71mm k31 on mine to an 80mm S400, the 71mm actually starts to spool too fast, and slows the 57 down when it is trying to light.
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I'm looking to add timing this weekend, the looser converter helped how fast the EGT's went up, but they are still too high the rest of the time.

How are you figuring out this about your turbos? I've got ports for checking pressures, I've just never done it before. Does anyone have a break down for testing drive pressures, pressure between stages, etc?
 
I have an HT60 22cm exhaust housing if anyone would like to trade for bigger. Housing is in good condition.

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angelic0- said:
Wouldn't you need the exhaust wheel for it aswell... ???

HT60 and HX60 share the same exhaust housings ??
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I'm hoping I won't need a bigger exhaust wheel for a bigger housing.

I believe that the HX60 and HT60 share the same center section, but have different wheels for the rotation. I'm guessing housings wouldn't be interchangeable, because of the opposite rotation.

Why does rotation direction matter?
 
I'm a hands on/picture guy, so this should help.

turbo_variable_turbine_1.jpg


Think of how this would work if the exhaust came in on the other side.


In other news I spoke with the guy who designed and CNC'ed DTT's belt pumps and he highlighted the issues with DTT's low budget design and how he plans to improve it. I'd like to wait for one but I need the fuel situation taken care of before I do the cam swap so I can get good before/after results. I'll probably put the Carter 4601HP on for now then retire it to our VE project later.

Looks like I'll be retiring the 60lb springs to the VE truck as well and buying better beehives for the Hamilton cam swap. Might do pushrods as well, but I'm trying to stay on budget while still having things matched correctly.

Rancho 9000's are on the truck. They are made in the USA and are clearly better quality than the generic white shocks everyone has their stickers slapped on. Everything about them is bigger, welded better, better designed, etc. I love that they have a intergrated nut above the piston rod on the fronts do you can hold the rod still while removing the top nut in the engine bay. That alone is worth the money...
 
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The Carter 4601HP showed up last week and I've got to fix a few things on a buddy's C4 Vette, finish building some garage shelves, and clean up the garage before I do any more performance work on the truck. It's been a mess since my last motor swap, I can't find chit, and I've lost about a 1/3 of my work area.

The track bar on my truck is worn out as well, today I'll probably tackle that so the random shakes stop.

I bit the bullet and got Hamilton pushrods, 165lb springs and everything for the cam swap. I'll probably do the springs first by themselves and then do the cam later for isolated results. I plan to do some before/after testing with the camshaft swap and I don't want to skew the results with springs since I'm sure just a spring swap on my truck would show gains.

Timing is still on my list of to do's. I was going to bump it last week but found my timing marks on the balancer were gone. I'll be doing the timing bump this weekend since I've been contracted to transport a jeep and stuff into an 8000ft altitude area in two weeks. I think I'm at 17.5 now, I'm going to aim for 20 or so with hopes that the head gasket will hang tough. JQmile is right, even after all the stuff I've done on this truck seeking lower EGT's it seems my motor needs the timing to find it's equilibrium.
 
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ive read that the ht60 is just a newer version of the ht3b, kind of like hx35w is to wh1c. is this correct, and if it is are the exhaust housings interchangable from ht60 and ht3b?

RockinRam96 said:
I have an HT60 22cm exhaust housing if anyone would like to trade for bigger. Housing is in good condition.
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if the ht60 and ht3b housings can be swaped, i have 2 ht3b exhaust housings larger than 22cm but id have to go check to tell you the different sizes for sure. pm if your interested, so we can quit cluttering up this thread, and ill check them out.
 
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