Old School HX35/HT3B vs Modern Compound Setup

DTT Assassin pump was a dud, when I called to inquire on installation they promptly asked me to send it back cause it can't keep up with a 12v. I'm looking into other options now. MITUSA and Fuel Boss mainly since I've got the rest of the fuel system for something like that.

No camshaft yet, waiting on my new garage to be done and the cam swap will be pop it's cherry.

I did uprade my leaking stock intercooler to a BD unit, I'll get more into that in another post or the 12v section.

-Dustin-
 
Did you build the piping for your twin setup or was it bought? I'm going to be building a hx35/HT3b set up for my 24v
 
Samaras Diesel said:
Did you build the piping for your twin setup or was it bought? I'm going to be building a hx35/HT3b set up for my 24v
Click to expand...

Search :poke: and bug Roachie LOL

All you need for a hot pipe is a sch 40 steel 3" 90* piece of pipe, Roachie has mentioned the part # numerous times. The cold pipe can be 3" or 4" just depends on what you want to use.:pop: I need to get started on mine. :blahblah1:
 
Bersaglieri said:
DTT Assassin pump was a dud, when I called to inquire on installation they promptly asked me to send it back cause it can't keep up with a 12v. I'm looking into other options now. MITUSA and Fuel Boss mainly since I've got the rest of the fuel system for something like that.

No camshaft yet, waiting on my new garage to be done and the cam swap will be pop it's cherry.

I did uprade my leaking stock intercooler to a BD unit, I'll get more into that in another post or the 12v section.

-Dustin-
Click to expand...

Update us when its up and running again....I need to get started on my twins.
 
Thanks for a very informative thread!

I'm not sure what proper etiquette is, but I say post up the results for the intercooler here and not in another thread since it is still relevant and will add to this already epic thread.
 
What is considered a modern twins setup for dd/towing rig for a 24v that lives at 6k+ altitude?


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The twin piping is from Olee Poole.

Truck is running now, I just haven't been online much or tinkering with the truck lately. I'm trying to finish a street Camaro build for my economy/daily driver car.

Short version of the intercooler upgrade is noticeably faster spool up and lower, more stable EGT's towing and WOT. Cruising EGT's are about the same, but then again right after I installed it is when we got hit with our higher summer temps.

-Dustin-
 
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Very imformative thread :pop:.. Keep us updated on what happens next... Did you ever find out the fuel pressure issue?
 
After me and the guys were bull****ting lately I decided to take a look at my ported stock manifold. Porting it did seem to make a small difference, but I was saddened to find it shrunk on me. The exhaust flange to head is off by 1/16" to 1/8" [shrinking inward towards where the turbo mounts]. The bolts are all angled slightly and obviously pushed to outside side of the exhaust manifold bolt holes.

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I'll have to look for and load the porting pictures as well. We ported the exhaust manifold on all runners and the T3 port. We also ported the 14cm HX35 housing. Mind you it gates all cylinders and has a larger upgraded wastegate port and flapper.

Finally get a chance to throw in some Cummins 60lb springs this weekend as well. I bet I've been floating valves for a while now and I'm hoping for gains in changing the springs as well. If you ever seen a dyno run where the valve springs float, the power falls off pretty bad. I think it's why my top end feels like it's stalls over 2500rpm.

I'm trying to get a 3 piece aftermarket manifold used, which seems to be a good budget replacement option since they are "old news" compared to Stainless and Steed manifolds of new. If it isn't ported it will be.

I still keep upgrading the compound setup in the back on my mind, but I'd like to see how far I can take this "Classic" setup. I figure installing the Hamilton Big Stick 2 and later porting the head would make this a quick spooling, easy to tow, and efficient setup.

Almost forgot I changed out the injectors recently. I was running a set of older Weston worked injectors which seemed to work pretty good. But I was curious about trying something different. I got a set of DFI injectors and they seem to idle and run a little smoother but with a little more smoke and maybe a little more heat. Both were supposedly 5x.014, but I think the DFI may move more fuel regardless of the tip hole size.

-Dustin-
 
Updates...

Well the trans lost 4th not long ago, I've been swamped with other stuff and haven't gotten around to fixing it yet. But it does seem to be a clutch or seal problem and not a actuation or electrical one.

I bought a 3piece manifold but it had a crack, I just got it welded up and hopefully it'll hold once I install it. I also have a E.D.waste gate plate to put on, but it'll be closed off for the time being. Sort of want a Steed but I can't justify the cost for a street truck under 650hp or so.

I have a set of Smokem delivery valves to try out. I'm pretty sure it'll be too much fuel for what I need, but I'm going to give them a shot anyways and see the truck reacts. I'm also considering racking the barrels to see how my setup likes it. Of course the trans needs dealt with first.

I'm not sure what else I've already said but I've got a valet switch to put in for those time I need the G/F to drive. Still got the cam/springs/lifters laying around and a new timing gear case since mine is cracked. Just lacking the spare time to get around to do the big jobs.
 
Awesome thread btw...how was your 4th gear acting? Mine seems to have a lot of chatter til i hit about 1900 and then it goes away...not even standing on either.
 
Thanks for the compliments fellas.

4th Gear just suddenly disappeared. Drove around all day, then "bam", it was gone. It's either a seal or solenoid failure. I can see the valve body demand 4th on the gauge but the pressure just isn't there, it's around 35psi I think. I wonder if my Garmon VB that supplies "extra PSI to the OD clutches" had something to do with it....

Chatter is probably clutches or converter if it's locked up. I think mine would be fine if I replaced the seal, just haven't got around to it yet.
 
I just re-read your whole thread, and I think it's your timing that's causing the EGT issue. Another member just had the same thing on here. On my 89, we found out it was accidentally retarded a tooth on the gear when I got it (9 deg on a light) which is probably why I could bury the pyro at 1600 in second gear. We skipped it two teeth ahead, plus part way to the head (27 deg on a light) and I didn't see anything above 1400 until OD and 100+mph. Also, lots of power, spooling was terrible, and my old battery wouldn't even start it. So, there's a happy point, but I run 22 deg on my 95 with the 57/71mm twins, and I love how it works.

As far as whether or not to upgrade, I don't think you'd see much of a difference unless you did something crazy, like twin Garrett GTX ball bearing chargers. I'm looking at switching the 71mm k31 on mine to an 80mm S400, the 71mm actually starts to spool too fast, and slows the 57 down when it is trying to light.
 
Isn't the A5K you are running a tight T4 housing? You maybe be able to just swap turbine housings on the primary to allow more flow.
 
No, it's a tight T3, I was going for full boost off idle LOL
 
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