Superduty P-pump 24v cummins build thread

Hawker said:
OK... I'm a couple steps behind you, hopefully gonna start mine up soon. Couple questions though -

How did you wire the fuel shutoff solenoid? A couple guys were telling me I could just use a starter solenoid, but I wasn't sure.

Do you have a part number or thread size/specs for the turbo oil supply line?

Are you planning on only running one battery, or is that just for testing?

Looks like you didn't use the stock ford overflow canister - that small one is enough?


I've got my laundry list i'm trying to go through to get this thing going, but it seems like it never ends...
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For the fuel shutoff I had the wiring from the 97 dodge harness for it, so I used that connector to the relay. I ran the ignition wire off the connector to an ignition source. Then ran the hot at all times from the relay to the battery, grounded the grounds on the fender. Then for the hold in wire I ran that to the wire off the starter relay that runs to the signal terminal on the starter. I used a 7.3 starter relay. If you need better details on it let me know and Ill try and make a wiring diagram when Im back down at the truck.

For the oil feed for the turbo I just have jegs fittings and stainless braided line. You need a 1/8" NPT to -6 AN fitting to go on the oil filter housing. Then a 90 degree -6 AN fitting then -6 AN stainless braided line to a -6 AN fitting for the line. Then I cant remember what size fitting to go into the plate my friend built for the top of the turbo, if you need I can get you all the part numbers.

Im running two batteries, I just had the one in for testing, but that tray holds two optimas side by side

Yeah i ditched the stock one, this canister should work fine, that came from summit racing

And I know what you mean about it never ending, there is always something to buy or figure out
 
i want to see this one done so bad! I should make good progress next weekend on mine! was hoping my welder and plasma would show up last week! looks like its gonna be tommorow........
when are you gonna get to work on this thing again matt?
 
Update:

I got the idle bumped up so it wont stall out now and figure out whats causing the transmission to shift, but have not determined a solution.

I figured out that the issue is in the trans control relay. The control side of the relay (pins 85 and 86) work the way they are supposed to. It gets ignition power to pin 86 when I turn the key to that side and then completes the circuit through the relay to the PCM via pin 85 (PNK wire) for the trans relay control.

The issue is that this doesnt close the switch on the controlled side of the circuit which is the hot at all times wire to pin 30 which should close to give power to pin 87 to send power via the RED wire to the trans solenoid assembly in the valve body.

I tried a couple different relays and no matter what it stays open. I got it to close once and it went in first when I put it in drive but then opened back up. I have no clue whats going on.

Anyone have any ideas? Im considering ordering a PCS and making it work with this valve body since suncoasts standalone VB is on 3 month backorder if I cant figure this out but as of right now Im lost
 
Little update from working on the truck yesterday:

I got my charging issue figured out by running the ignition signal for the regulator to the ignition source for the vacuum pump.

Then I moved on to the transmission to see if I could get it to shift at all. I first checked the gap for the engine speed sensor again and it was way off so I reset it back to .020. Then I went and checked ground and power and I was getting both. Moved on then to checking that I was getting 5v reference voltage to the engine speed sensor, tps etc while the truck was running and I was getting a solid 5v. So I know the PCM is sending out power.

The problem though was the relay was still not closing the switch on the controlled side for the transmission relay. So I just decided to jump pin 30 to pin 87. I back the truck out of the shop and starting moving forward and it shifted from 1st to 2nd to 3rd all nice and smooth so I was pretty happy there.

Still no OD or lockup Im thinking using the ford VSS might have something to do with that as Im sure its not the same signal. Im going out of town for the weekend but when I get back Ill look at it more but progress has been made.
 
good to hear man.

good info here too!

glad to see its moving in a better manner now! looking forward to the next update
 
big_bran said:
good to hear man.

good info here too!

glad to see its moving in a better manner now! looking forward to the next update
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Thanks!

I just sent this to you in a PM as well but I think I may have figured out my OD and lockup issue.

From what I learned today in 99 they switched the trans temp sensor from an NTC to PTC sensor and the lockup and OD solenoids look to be a little different. Im using a 97 PCM with an 01 VB so I think the sensor is reading completely wrong showing the trans never getting up to temp keeping OD and lockup disengaged at all times.
 
i pmed you about this a little too! thankfully i think mine should be a little simpler... hopefully! i actually was not sure what year truck the trans was out of!
But now that i think about it that makes alot of sense!

Now just to figure out how to make od work and your truck is complete! thats gotta be exciting man! seeing someone else make progress is like motivation though ha!
 
Glad every thing is coming together for you.We have to figure out how to lock the Torque converter up in my Allison

Dale
 
Matt,
Have you figured out the back up lights yet? I am about to chunk mine out the window. Thats my hold up right now to getting an inspection.
 
04fummins said:
Matt,
Have you figured out the back up lights yet? I am about to chunk mine out the window. Thats my hold up right now to getting an inspection.
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Worse comes to worse, you can always find a temporary dip switch to either put on the shifter or down on the tranny to provide 12volts to the reverse lights for the inspection.
 
The place I go to only checks the horn and lights I don't even have to get out of the truck but they will ding you on the lights any of the lights.

By the way I now have reverse lights. Thanks for the help guys.

Hey Matt,
any updates?
 
cummin get it said:
It sounds like to me pin 30 needs to be on the key.
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yep thats what Im gonna do

2wpuller said:
Glad every thing is coming together for you.We have to figure out how to lock the Torque converter up in my Allison

Dale
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Thanks! Yeah figuring out this trans stuff is not fun

04fummins said:
Matt,
Have you figured out the back up lights yet? I am about to chunk mine out the window. Thats my hold up right now to getting an inspection.
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I havent worked on the reverse lights at all yet actually

04fummins said:
The place I go to only checks the horn and lights I don't even have to get out of the truck but they will ding you on the lights any of the lights.

By the way I now have reverse lights. Thanks for the help guys.

Hey Matt,
any updates?
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What did you do to make the reverse lights work?

No update yet, I was in Tennessee at Norris Lake for the weekend and just got back today so Ill be heading down to the shop tomorrow. Gonna throw the 1000ohm resistor in first and see if that gives me OD and lockup and go from there
 
Great looking conversion!!! I'm loving the coolant overflow bottle, might have to add that to mine, good luck getting the trans figured out.
 
Meyers Farms said:
Great looking conversion!!! I'm loving the coolant overflow bottle, might have to add that to mine, good luck getting the trans figured out.
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Thanks!

Well guys,

After 8 long months I finally drove the Fummins home tonight! Put about 60 miles on it so far. I ended up soldering in a 1000ohm resistor to the trans temp signal wire and got my OD and lockup.

The truck is running great but I need to spend some good time tuning the pump

Overall though Im very happy with it!
 
Great news Matt. It is nice to it back on the road.

For reverse lights I just ran a new 12v wire from the fuse panel to the neutral safety/reverse light switch then I ran a wire all the way back to the drivers tail light and hooked it up. The two lights were wired together so they both work now. It was a major pain though I would wire it up just splicing into the reverse light, I would get 12.9 volts and my test light would light but the reverse lights would not. Not untill I cut the wire to bypass the wire comming from the original trans then I was able to get it to work. You might be able to put in a diode up stream but this did the trick for me.
 
04fummins said:
Great news Matt. It is nice to it back on the road.

For reverse lights I just ran a new 12v wire from the fuse panel to the neutral safety/reverse light switch then I ran a wire all the way back to the drivers tail light and hooked it up. The two lights were wired together so they both work now. It was a major pain though I would wire it up just splicing into the reverse light, I would get 12.9 volts and my test light would light but the reverse lights would not. Not untill I cut the wire to bypass the wire comming from the original trans then I was able to get it to work. You might be able to put in a diode up stream but this did the trick for me.
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yeah Im having a blast driving it finally, got about 200 miles on it so far.

And that makes sense for the reverse lights, Ill do that this weekend. Thanks!
 
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