Swole...Again!

Swole, are you needing a tech contact number for FASS or someone who knows someone working there? And don't think it's just you. My dad and I are both "That Guy". We have put 4 (stock) engines in an 86 chevy c10 trying to get it running right. (three were practically free) But we still went through all of them, gaskets, rings, hone, etc. Now we finally "built" a small block for it.

We all have to have out thing to spend money on. Some spend it in bars, some gamble; we waste it on trying to make our vehicles better.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Swole, are you needing a tech contact number for FASS or someone who knows someone working there? And don't think it's just you. My dad and I are both "That Guy". We have put 4 (stock) engines in an 86 chevy c10 trying to get it running right. (three were practically free) But we still went through all of them, gaskets, rings, hone, etc. Now we finally "built" a small block for it.

We all have to have out thing to spend money on. Some spend it in bars, some gamble; we waste it on trying to make our vehicles better.
Click to expand...



Just someone that can help me discuss shipping / receiving, warranty, replacement, etc.... Someone that may know of CompD and our needs...


Thanks
 
A 95 is NOT enough pump. I can drag a 150 down from 25 to 15 psi wot through high flow rated 100 micron screen, 20 micron water seperator, and a 2 micron Fleetgaurd filters with 1/2 inch line.

I removed my factory water sep/filter as well...since that is a major choke point.

You were under pumped prior to your new additional filters...

Dave you are killing me. Get a decent set of gauges working and monitor rp, lp, egt x 2(front three and back three), boost, between stage boost, and drive pressure. You could have avoided or solved so many of your issues by not being so blind.

This time you simply more than doubled your flow RESTRICTION and are seeing the ill effects and wondering why?

Its like you being in the gym....do your max bench press
then let somebody double the weight but not tell you...then you fail to lift it and wonder why?

Respectfully...wise up. Lol
 
You should have no problem's pushing thru that. I push thru 3 filters with the stock pump, and while I don't make near the hp you my pump isn't as big either.

A 95 may not be the best pump for your HP, but it shouldn't manifest at idle.
 
Big Swole said:
Just someone that can help me discuss shipping / receiving, warranty, replacement, etc.... Someone that may know of CompD and our needs...


Thanks
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Got ya! All I remember is it was hell to get contact info for FASS when I had problems about 3 years back... Good luck; my next will be an AirDog.
 
cquestad said:
A 95 is NOT enough pump. I can drag a 150 down from 25 to 15 psi wot through high flow rated 100 micron screen, 20 micron water seperator, and a 2 micron Fleetgaurd filters with 1/2 inch line.

I removed my factory water sep/filter as well...since that is a major choke point.

You were under pumped prior to your new additional filters...

Dave you are killing me. Get a decent set of gauges working and monitor rp, lp, egt x 2(front three and back three), boost, between stage boost, and drive pressure. You could have avoided or solved so many of your issues by not being so blind.

This time you simply more than doubled your flow RESTRICTION and are seeing the ill effects and wondering why?

Its like you being in the gym....do your max bench press
then let somebody double the weight but not tell you...then you fail to lift it and wonder why?

Respectfully...wise up. Lol
Click to expand...

XXXXXX2..Dave You need to Upgrade...This point will bif You cannot have proper filtration WITHOUT PRESSURE LOSS.. any 95GPH pump will be cut into 1/2 volume with this filter Zinga AE-3AZL those WS filters are worthless they cannot get the emulsified water out of the fuel that is being produce today..These Zinga filters are NOT internally combustion certified BC they don't have the bypass ability.You will put the test to those Italian component's in the new builds ,Maybe you can get the record for the most post ever on 1 thread:Cheer:
 

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cquestad said:
A 95 is NOT enough pump. I can drag a 150 down from 25 to 15 psi wot through high flow rated 100 micron screen, 20 micron water seperator, and a 2 micron Fleetgaurd filters with 1/2 inch line.

I removed my factory water sep/filter as well...since that is a major choke point.

You were under pumped prior to your new additional filters...

Dave you are killing me. Get a decent set of gauges working and monitor rp, lp, egt x 2(front three and back three), boost, between stage boost, and drive pressure. You could have avoided or solved so many of your issues by not being so blind.

This time you simply more than doubled your flow RESTRICTION and are seeing the ill effects and wondering why?

Its like you being in the gym....do your max bench press
then let somebody double the weight but not tell you...then you fail to lift it and wonder why?

Respectfully...wise up. Lol
Click to expand...


95 gph has worked very well over the years.
11.47 with my 3.3's
11.22 with my 3.8's
Never had any issues.

Pump flowed LOTS Of fuel with just pumping into a tank a long while ago...NOW, Not so much...

Wasn't gonna say this but I was given wrong info about how to plumb my regulator...THIS is what I fear has jacked up my pump...

Tested it by trying to fill the 5 gal. tank... Not so good now...

SO, I appreciate the concern and understand that you think I've caused this issue by adding the extra filtration, BUT I was having issues with it before this..Just didn't know about the regulator placement being the problem until last week...BTW my 11.22 was run with the regulator IN THE WRONG SPOT... So it obviously was not that bad to starve for fuel..

I have gauges:
Total Boost
Primary Boost
RP
Trans Temp & Pressure

I don't see how any of my Previous "Fluke" or "Bad Luck" issues were caused by me NOT having other guages... I do not look at gauges anyway when racing or playing at WOT...Not saying thats good but it is what it is.. I like to stay on the road / track and keep eys on what I'm doing...


Again, I can understand why you posted what you did but it's just simply not the case with my previous issues... #1 bad injector , #2 blown freeze plug / coolant in oil, #3 Melt down VERY quickly due to 3 possible BAD electronic device / harness / sensor, #4 Ring issue and a BAD injector (NOT DUE TO HIGH RP OR SOMETHING I DID...THIS IS PER MARCO! )

So!

I know it freaks you out that I don't have things you have, but please try to refrain from calling me "stupid"... Just not the case.

Yes I would / could use a DP gauge and will work on that... Never beleived much in the EGT thing with CR's.. Since Many have melted down at low / moderate EGT's...

Simply put... My FASS is dying due to a plumbing issue of a regulator... I'll own that one since I did it. I just was coached on that though (not Jeff)..

EVEN with the FASS suffering, It still hauls A$$...
 
Dave...working does not define right. My truck makes over 800 hp with no lift pump. Mine has been dead for months and I have been too busy to resolve that issue right now...but you know what it is way down in power and slow to respond compared to 15 psi min.

Don't listen....its allright. It has taken you down the path your on so far. 11 second quarters ae easy a few times....they are ALOT harder sever hundered ones later...or several hundred thousand miles later IMHO.
 
Food for thought...what causes and electric motot to underperform and then ultimately fail?

Especially in this cause since its fuel cooled...
 
IIRC your RP gauage was not hooked up or working properly when you had a faulty dual cp3 controller start all of this mess. If you had a lp gauge...heck one pre and one post filter like me would be even better you would have known what is up his time from the comfort of your airconditioned cab. No tools needed.

Do you have the oem filter housing too? Do you know at what point that becomes a flow choke point? Is you filter flow ratinf appropriate?

Just cause something lasted long enough to make a pass or two does not mean it worked. How many miles are on your truck anyways?

I am not calling you stupid at all...don't take it that way...just research more...talk to those and trust those that have done it right for years and years....with a cr especially.

There are a few guys on her hat have had almost as many miles on the strip alone as your truck has total miles and have never broken anything.
 
cquestad said:
Dave...working does not define right. My truck makes over 800 hp with no lift pump. Mine has been dead for months and I have been too busy to resolve that issue right now...but you know what it is way down in power and slow to respond compared to 15 psi min.

Don't listen....its allright. It has taken you down the path your on so far. 11 second quarters ae easy a few times....they are ALOT harder sever hundered ones later...or several hundred thousand miles later IMHO.
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cquestad said:
Food for thought...what causes and electric motot to underperform and then ultimately fail?

Especially in this cause since its fuel cooled...
Click to expand...

This is what perplexes (sp?) me... How is it still holding 25-26k on RP with a bad pump...But my pump is clearly NOT pumping like it should.

How has me "Not listening" taken me down said "Path" ?
Not sure I follow you?

Not exactly sure what causes the pump to fail / get weak but since my regulator was plumbed incorrectly, I assume with was "worked" too hard and "burnt up" for lack of a better way to put it...Who knows.. I'm not a pump maker..

cquestad said:
IIRC your RP gauage was not hooked up or working properly when you had a faulty dual cp3 controller start all of this mess. If you had a lp gauge...heck one pre and one post filter like me would be even better you would have known what is up his time from the comfort of your airconditioned cab. No tools needed.

Do you have the oem filter housing too? Do you know at what point that becomes a flow choke point? Is you filter flow ratinf appropriate?

Just cause something lasted long enough to make a pass or two does not mean it worked. How many miles are on your truck anyways?

I am not calling you stupid at all...don't take it that way...just research more...talk to those and trust those that have done it right for years and years....with a cr especially.

There are a few guys on her hat have had almost as many miles on the strip alone as your truck has total miles and have never broken anything.
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Not sure where you got that.. My RP gauge was working fine during that.. I just never looked at it while racing... Even if, I'm used to seeing it at 26K+ when racing.. With the sensor not capable of reading past 26-27K, how would that have save me??

The LP gauge was inline at the regulator outside....YES, I know I need one inside but haven't needed it really...I'll work on that..BUT again, not the cause of my past issues...

NOT using the stock filter location..Totally removed..Lines go from FASS straight to cp3's...

Truck has 74K+ miles on it...

50+K miles orig. motor
7+ k miles first build
2-3 k miles on 2nd build
4K miles on 3rd build
Now Less than a 1K miles on this build..

Give or Take

Truck is always pushed hard when playing or at track.. No I don't have lots of passes on each build but for good reason.. windowing block from coolant, bad electronics found, bad injector(s) as they were (Not sure why but was told it was NOT due to something I did Per the 19 page report).



Glad you never broken anything but again my LUCK or Whatever you want to call it is just THAT BAD!
Many here can try to fault me or whomever but I've NEVER hidden anything about all this chit... NOR have a I done things to deserve it either..These were quality builds that I just had bad luck with.. Who knows why...

I understand you weren't call me stupid but to the folks that don't know me reading this, it may appear that way.. And that will reflect on Jeff, Don, Mahle, Smarty, and all the other products I use...

I guess there no convincing some but those around me know the truth, and I've always posted the truth on here...Some call me crazy for posting every little thing but I like to do it so it may Help others learn or keep from having the same issue down the road.. Like the Dr. P freeze plug kit, you know how many Kits they sold right after my issue??? LOTS!! Some made their own but still...
 
AH64ID said:
You should have no problem's pushing thru that. I push thru 3 filters with the stock pump, and while I don't make near the hp you my pump isn't as big either.

A 95 may not be the best pump for your HP, but it shouldn't manifest at idle.
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Agreed !!

I know the 95 may not be Ideal for this HP but it was working fine for a long while...
150+ would be better but it proves that mine isn't working right..

Thanks!
 
Your actions are the only ones that might make those companies look bad.

Best way to look at it...why not look at a gauge if you have it to tune? Don't race on a unproven tune.

If you knew your rp sensor is saturated above 26k why push it that far? To blow up injector soleniods? I guess it doesn't matter because even if you had a gauge that was used in its proper range so you were not driving blind you still would have not looked at it?

Point is...the one part your not seeing...none of your parts failed...you failed them!

I could burn down my truck in 5 miles if I acted like you...but I don't...so it still runs great after almost 9 years.

Pushed hard and driven hard and put to the test comments have no place here...

The key point is to KNOW where the breaking point is an stay just below that. Not blindly cross that point and reap the reward of thrashed chit then cry about bad luck.

You would rely on luck at all if you thought more...once you cross that line where your driving blind...luck is all you got and yours is run out.

Take this the right way please.
 
Electric motors wear out from heat. So starving it from fuel...its source of coolant...or deaheading one that is not internally bypassed will drastically shorten its lifespan. Both of those you could have been warned of if you had lp gauges and actually watched them.

My truck has a seatbelt...but I don't expect it to work still when I don't wear it...
 
cquestad said:
Your actions are the only ones that might make those companies look bad.

Best way to look at it...why not look at a gauge if you have it to tune? Don't race on a unproven tune.

If you knew your rp sensor is saturated above 26k why push it that far? To blow up injector soleniods? I guess it doesn't matter because even if you had a gauge that was used in its proper range so you were not driving blind you still would have not looked at it?

Point is...the one part your not seeing...none of your parts failed...you failed them!

I could burn down my truck in 5 miles if I acted like you...but I don't...so it still runs great after almost 9 years.

Pushed hard and driven hard and put to the test comments have no place here...

The key point is to KNOW where the breaking point is an stay just below that. Not blindly cross that point and reap the reward of thrashed chit then cry about bad luck.

You would rely on luck at all if you thought more...once you cross that line where your driving blind...luck is all you got and yours is run out.

Take this the right way please.
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Okay Christian... I appreciate your comments but...

-Two weeks after installing Flux 2's (Bodies and all..Not my orig. injectors) truck starts to "hard start" and then a days later won't crank..Bad Injector body.....Melted #4 piston... How did I fail them??

-Freeze plug blows out of head (under valve cover)...Very rare problem... How did I fail them??

-Dual fuel controller box..Very Very few miles from a brand new kit..Out of spec... How did I fail it??

-MP8 harness that was found with a wire lead off after my melt down... other than heat under the hood and a piece of chit shrink tubing...How did I fail it???

-RP sensor found bad when first start up of new build... Well... I have no clue...Could have been trash from install or trash from the rail that I got... Who knows...But again I ask, How did I fail it??

-19page report shows High RP or driving habbits NOT the cause of my recent injector(s) issue... Ran fine when my F1 SAC tip split and then didn't run fine when they returned.... How did I fail here ???

-ALL 6 oil scraper rings found upside down... (debate about markings / cut being correct) but even if they were correct...How does someone as anal as me with 20/20 vision and a forum memeber looking over my shoulder actually install ALL 6 upside down perfectly "Simply" cause I "wasn't paying attetion"....hmmmm!
Either way.... I got new rings with new part numbers in a new box with new markings and the bevel on the opposite side... Hopefully now they are in correctly since I had not 2 but 3 people watching this time...lol

Still not sure How I "Failed" here either but this can be debated another time...


How did I fail all the times exactly??





And FTR... I'm not mad at ya man.. Just trying to clear up a few misconceptions that it seems you and hopefully not too many more here have of me....

Can't it be that I simply just have THAT Bad of luck?? As opposed to me being some sort of an idiot??

Been too many "Proven" people around me and helping me for all this to have simply been OUR faults.... None of this stuff happens to Jeff Garmon, Phil Taylor, Darren Morrison, and many more who have been around, watched, helped, and supervised me while building , racing, working on, etc my truck....


As you said, " Pleast take this^ the right way" Too!!
 
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cquestad said:
Electric motors wear out from heat. So starving it from fuel...its source of coolant...or deaheading one that is not internally bypassed will drastically shorten its lifespan. Both of those you could have been warned of if you had lp gauges and actually watched them.

My truck has a seatbelt...but I don't expect it to work still when I don't wear it...
Click to expand...

Okay!!:Cheer:

I will totally agree with this post and yes you are right!!

So I burnt up a pump due to lack of LP gauge...

Okay I'm out $300-400 or whatever to buy new pump, repair this one, or get an Air Dog from Anthony to replace this FASS...

Now what??

That cover's one issue.. My very last / Recent one....

Not ALL the others I just posted above...
 
BTW... I left out several other failures / Issues...

No sense slinging mud towards folks that aren't involved here... Not my style..
 
TCDiesel said:
XXXXXX2..Dave You need to Upgrade...This point will bif You cannot have proper filtration WITHOUT PRESSURE LOSS.. any 95GPH pump will be cut into 1/2 volume with this filter Zinga AE-3AZL those WS filters are worthless they cannot get the emulsified water out of the fuel that is being produce today..These Zinga filters are NOT internally combustion certified BC they don't have the bypass ability.You will put the test to those Italian component's in the new builds ,Maybe you can get the record for the most post ever on 1 thread:Cheer:
Click to expand...


Todd... Are you saying that filter is better than what I have or what?

As it stands I have Fleatgard filters /WS on my FASS and the CAT filters / WS on the Dr. P unit....

What else should I do?
 
Yep.. call me if you have any Question(s) That filter has been install on commercial customer(s) we have that have 1.2 million miles on the same sprayers...I just talk to 1 owner with the 8.3 CR that just turn over 400K. the zinga line is some what of a hassle to install BC it has 1inch head fitting.. it is common to find the 1 inch at most pump supply companies.. I just turn 127k on my sprayers that have been running the 30k sensor with the T&C wild Pump for 4 years (200%) ( factory Bodies & Nozzles).
Zinga is not the only manufacture of this Style..They are just NOT the Popular filters. They are NOT internally certified BC once they get plugged they will NOT allow liquid to pass.With before and after gages will show the pressure loss..On my Auxiliary bypass it drops the pressure 3-5 PSI, the volume is cut down 92 GPH to 60 GPH.
 
Swole..ur rp gauge is 25k at wot, but how long does it take to get thur. I'm guessing you have some seriouse suction from thos twin pumps. They are doing all the LP work and the HP work. Go to a 240gph airdog or fass and a Hellman sump. Ya have to ditch the stock filter housing and pluming though.
Its always sumthin in it..? good luck
 
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