Truckers, lets see your rigs!

A working B at that power level can get expensive. If its a 400 the stock injectors will flow quite a bit, I'd say just start with pump tuning and air. Are you guys going to go through it? There's kits out there with steel pistons now.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Ram12vcummins said:
It’ll be worked. We don’t have any truck pulls around us. It will most likely become his full time truck, except for maybe gravel. We haul heavy too. But I am usually doing the heavier stuff.
Click to expand...

Are you rebuilding? If so I’d rebuild with steel top pistons, IPD is touting their parts as special, but they aren’t special, they are 3412 pistons.
 
Yes. It’s 400 hp stock. And we will be tearing it apart and rebuilding it. Just don’t wanna go through the trouble of redoing the truck and then having the motor puke.

So are ipd kits decent? I’ve always been leery of aftermarket kits.
Steel pistons are the way to go?

I read some more on cat specs for the liner protrusion and surprised by the specs. They seem lax. .001 to .006.

I would think we would get counterbores cut and liners shimmed to maintain as close to .0045 across all 6. Unless there’s a different recommendation for these engines.

What’s the expensive part about getting the power?

The pump should come off and have the timing mechanics rebuilt?
 
Ram12vcummins said:
Yes. It’s 400 hp stock. And we will be tearing it apart and rebuilding it. Just don’t wanna go through the trouble of redoing the truck and then having the motor puke.

So are ipd kits decent? I’ve always been leery of aftermarket kits.
Steel pistons are the way to go?

I read some more on cat specs for the liner protrusion and surprised by the specs. They seem lax. .001 to .006.

I would think we would get counterbores cut and liners shimmed to maintain as close to .0045 across all 6. Unless there’s a different recommendation for these engines.

What’s the expensive part about getting the power?

The pump should come off and have the timing mechanics rebuilt?
Click to expand...

I do think people have better luck with IPD parts for mechanicals than a lot are having with the liners for the electronic engines.

Faulkner can answer to the proper spec, I know most set them towards the upper end of the spectrum to ensure the liner is clamped well.

Power is pretty simple, higher flowing nozzles, a good turbo, and some pump adjustments are really all there is to it..

Timing advance can be taken off the engine without removing the pump, you want to make sure you have the pump pinned before taking anything loose, also on the advance you don't mess with the start screw unless you have someone that can meter time it to see at what rpm the engine starts advancing the injection timing.

If the timing advance is working there isn't really any reason to mess with it, 7Fb engines don't need to be advanced anymore than they already are.
 
Our company policy is 5-6 thou on projection. CAT spec is broader. I'm not sure where the top end is exactly, but I'm guessing 7+ puts you in fractured flange territory.



Sent from my motorola one action using Tapatalk
 
Replace the timing advance bolts with new ones. The used ones almost always yield and let timing slip.

I don't know where the hot rodders set them. We always advance the timing so that the hole in the flywheel and the hole in the housing make a figure 8.

Sent from my motorola one action using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
Replace the timing advance bolts with new ones. The used ones almost always yield and let timing slip.

I don't know where the hot rodders set them. We always advance the timing so that the hole in the flywheel and the hole in the housing make a figure 8.

Sent from my motorola one action using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That is fine on most engines after the 7fb, they are already at 24* and that is plenty, basically the newer the engine the less advanced they are from the factory for emissions.
 
So maybe the pump should stay on the engine. But I have read the timing part can wear? Or I’m misinterpreting something.

Ya I figured turbo and maybe nozzles. I’m just not that educated one what length or where to stop in size. Obviously with no air to air it’s probably a little more limited if we want it to be reliable.

Next chance I get, I’ll look at the turbo and see what it’s size it might be.

I had read about the start screw.
 
The weight assembled wear and eventually eject themselves through the case if neglected.

Sent from my motorola one action using Tapatalk
 
Ram12vcummins said:
So maybe the pump should stay on the engine. But I have read the timing part can wear? Or I’m misinterpreting something.

Ya I figured turbo and maybe nozzles. I’m just not that educated one what length or where to stop in size. Obviously with no air to air it’s probably a little more limited if we want it to be reliable.

Next chance I get, I’ll look at the turbo and see what it’s size it might be.

I had read about the start screw.
Click to expand...

It’s not really limited, the water aftercooler isn’t holding it back.
 
So the timing part should come off and be looked at.

80 psi sounds like a bit much lol 45-50 would be nice.

With the pump on the truck, and some new nozzles and appropriate air, what could we expect? Don’t need to oversize the nozzles and air if it creates more issues. But I’m sure the old man would love to have some power to play with on occasion.

He’s told me he’s decided on 3.90 with the 15over because he likes that trans.
 
3406 4mg. I have a constant smoke trail under any load. Empty or loaded. Its not a haze, its smoke. Nozzles have been pop tested,timing advance gone through, timing checked, and recently had the b&p out and lapped as they were bypassing. Still smoking the same.It has or-8785 nozzles,78/96-1.45,good air to air that has been checked. Still pulls about 42 psi on the manifold. Pyro has been getting a little warmer than usual. It will hit 900ish (after turbo) here lately. Where can i go from here?
 
Have pistons been changed?

4mg would at best have 15.2:1 pistons, the 8785 are for a 14.5:1 piston so the bowls are different, it sounds to me that you are spraying out of the bowl and this is causing your trailing smoke.

What is timing set at?
 
Pistons have not been changed. Ive been running this setup for about 3 yrs and the smoking started about 4-5 months ago. afrc has also been changed as well. Ive about got everything together for a set of acert compounds to be mocked up for it.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top