VE pump to P-Pump

wwm

TO MANY TRUCKS
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I have a 93 ctd with a ve pump and wanted to know what is needed to change my ve pump for a p pump, to make some inpressive numbers. Does anybody know what it takes to do this swap.
 
injectors, injector lines, p7100, timming cover, timming gear, lift pump, time, patience.
 
Or you could.
 

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or you could buy a complete running p-pump engine for less than rounding up all the parts, swap it in, and sell off your VE engine and come out way ahead
 
or you could buy a complete running p-pump engine for less than rounding up all the parts, swap it in, and sell off your VE engine and come out way ahead


this is very true. i got a rollover 97 and got a motor and tranny, scrapped the truck and sold the old parts, made money.
 
Thats what I'm going right now... athough I'm keeping the non-i/c bottom end for the pistons. I'm going to throw all the ve parts on the 12v block i have and sell it as a whole motor.
 
The only reason I used a 24V motor was because I couldn't find a low mileage motor with a p-pump. I bought this motor with 25k miles on it instead of a 12V with 175K +.
 
I did mine because I had an engine and intercooler (extra parts from gathering parts for the Sububan swap) and the truck was going to be sent to the crusher.Rich
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i know daithi2 said timming cover but the way i see it you need a gear housing and a gear housing cover from a 94-98...not trying to be a smart @ss
 
Lets see
1) lines
2) injectors
3)pump
4)gear
5)timing housing
6)timing cover
7)injector adapters if non intercooled
8)throttle cable (off of a 24 valve would be best)
9)gear nut and washer NEW
10) 70 amp relay to trigger the solenoid (can be found in mopar fwd cars abs ID by words HIRAM
11) 94-97 trans kick down cable (for auto)
12) fuel pump (lift) Not 100% certain if this mandatory

and head must be ground for clearance
Did I miss anything?
 
I have a 93 ctd with a ve pump and wanted to know what is needed to change my ve pump for a p pump, to make some inpressive numbers. Does anybody know what it takes to do this swap.

Or you could buy KTA's 14mm head and spend some money on a good fuel system....you'll need that anyway. People have made 400-700hp with KTA's stuff, no nitrous.
 
Or you could buy KTA's 14mm head and spend some money on a good fuel system....you'll need that anyway. People have made 400-700hp with KTA's stuff, no nitrous.

yeah, there was that one vid I saw on youtube of the guy w/ the cracked out VE that did like 550rwhp on the dyno and promptly locked the pump up. that was awesome! :stab:
 
KTA's 14mm pumps have a pretty good track record, but you will always make more power with a p-pump and it will burn cleaner and cooler as well.
 
yeah, there was that one vid I saw on youtube of the guy w/ the cracked out VE that did like 550rwhp on the dyno and promptly locked the pump up. that was awesome! :stab:

He was also trying a 4mm camplate with that pump, aaaand it was way overfueled. That pump put out about 500cc if I recall, which is p-pump levels. When you try new things, it doesn't always work out.....
 
He was also trying a 4mm camplate with that pump, aaaand it was way overfueled. That pump put out about 500cc if I recall, which is p-pump levels. When you try new things, it doesn't always work out.....

true dat! I'm too poor to be on the cutting edge :eek:
 
y do u need different injectors i no the p pump have the five hole design and ve is 6 is that it or would it matter
 
Yes you either need different injectors or to reset the pop pressure. Stock 93 injectors kinda suck anyhow. I'd spring for a set of 370s or something.
 
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