What power mods should I do?

04fummins

04fummins

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Mar 23, 2011
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258
OK,
So I am just about done with my 6.0l delete in my 2004 SD. I have installed a 1997 12v with 167,000 miles out of a FL60 that had a 5 spd. The p-pump is a 190 hp and the timing is set at 11.5 deg. the motor is stock but it has a reman pump and turbo, it was an old FedEx truck. I have installed a 47rh w/ billit triple clutch TC built by Garmons and have pyro/boost/oil pressure gauges and will be adding a tranny temp gauge, I added a new intake air horn and fixed the KDP. The exhaust is tied into the factory ford exhaust with the kitty gutted.

Now when I drive this thing it is a bit on the slow side, but way better than the 6.0, that wouldn't move at all. So what I would like to do is tune the 12v up, to get near or over what the old 6.0l would do when she ran @ "315hp" I would like to be somewhere around 300-350 hp. I only plan on using the truck for weekends and to tow a 7500lbs TT a few times a year.

to get to the 300+- hp what should I do.

Bump the timing to 15-16 deg or not mess with the timing at all?
What can I get out of this motor without doing timing?

#0, 100, #12, etc, fuel plate or remove it altogether?

other AFC mods?

boost elbow?

I don't want to roll coal or pull sleds, I just want it to be able to tow a little.
sorry for the long post but I have an odd critter and the normal tunes might not apply here.

Thanks
 
Find a #6 plate. It's aggressive enough to get you to 300-350. 3k governor springs will wake it up, do all of the afc mods, that alone will make it feel faster than the 6.0, and if you come up short of your 300hp goal with all those little mods then you can try running no plate.

Sounds like a cool truck. I've been eying a ford cummins swap for a little while since my 2nd gen dodge is a bit on the sketchy side.
 
Thanks Spence,

This has been an adventure almost 2 years in the making. My original plan was to tune it up while the motor was out of the truck but I wanted to drive it as is and then turn it up and feel the difference since I have never been in a cummins powered truck. My big concern was the timing being at 11.5* and turning the pump up, as most pumps start off in the 12-13* range. I have spent all this time getting the motor to fit and play nice with this truck and not enough time learning about tuning the motor.
 
I've personally seen 650 on stock timing, a couple mid 400's also. it's a huge disadvantage at those levels but you can squeeze 350 out with stock timing without much worry.
 
With 5x12 injectors, stock turbo, 17*, afc mods, and no plate I did 380 rwhp.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I've personally seen 650 on stock timing, a couple mid 400's also. it's a huge disadvantage at those levels but you can squeeze 350 out with stock timing without much worry.
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Looks like I will be in good shape then. but if I advance the timing I should expect a little better MPGs and lower EGTs correct?

Chevycummins said:
With 5x12 injectors, stock turbo, 17*, afc mods, and no plate I did 380 rwhp.
Click to expand...

that is better than I want/need, I cannot wait to see what this thing will do when she wakes up.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Find a #6 plate. It's aggressive enough to get you to 300-350. 3k governor springs will wake it up, do all of the afc mods, that alone will make it feel faster than the 6.0, and if you come up short of your 300hp goal with all those little mods then you can try running no plate.

Sounds like a cool truck. I've been eying a ford cummins swap for a little while since my 2nd gen dodge is a bit on the sketchy side.
Click to expand...

ok here are some really dumb questions. 3k gov springs, that will allow it to rev to 3,000 rpm correct?
My truck will rev to just over 3k before it defuels does that mean I have 3k gov springs? I have to ask because this motor is not the normal dodge 12v. Thanks
 
04fummins said:
ok here are some really dumb questions. 3k gov springs, that will allow it to rev to 3,000 rpm correct?
My truck will rev to just over 3k before it defuels does that mean I have 3k gov springs? I have to ask because this motor is not the normal dodge 12v. Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't know what are in 190 pumps nor do I know how the govenor is setup on your truck. But yes It allows you to rev to 3200 ish but it also allows it to fuel hard in lower rpm. if your wanting more you can spring (no pun intended)for 4ks since they aren't much more costly and no different to install.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I don't know what are in 190 pumps nor do I know how the govenor is setup on your truck. But yes It allows you to rev to 3200 ish but it also allows it to fuel hard in lower rpm. if your wanting more you can spring (no pun intended)for 4ks since they aren't much more costly and no different to install.
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I will keep the 4ks in mind. I can keep it below 3500 with my foot to keep the valves from floating since I don't have the 60lbs springs.

Thanks for your posts.
 
04fummins said:
ok here are some really dumb questions. 3k gov springs, that will allow it to rev to 3,000 rpm correct?
My truck will rev to just over 3k before it defuels does that mean I have 3k gov springs? I have to ask because this motor is not the normal dodge 12v. Thanks
Click to expand...

No B-series truck engine came from factory with 3K springs. 3K springs will make the pump fuel to 3K under full load. Stock springs only go to 2600 under full load. Free rev tells nothing.

If it were mine I would put a 4k kit and 60# valve springs in it.
 
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to get the most response from these engines a 3gsk or 4gsk are the biggest improvement from a stock setting IMO. to be on the safe side i would spend the money and do it right like Lee mentioned. i think you would be happy with a 4gsk, 60# springs, and the free afc mods and you will probably be around the power range you want to be.
 
Call Jeff Garmon....433rwhp here on a stock turbo.
 
A set of delivery valves would add 20-80 HP pretty easy, just depends on how aggressive you go with them.
 
A more aggressive fuel plate (#100, #10, or none at all), 3k or 4k GSK, boost elbow, and 15-16* timing should get you close to 300rwhp, and be pretty fun to drive. The only reason to do DV's or injectors is if you want to hit over the 300rwhp mark. Fuel plate to add power, tune the wastegate to burn the extra fuel, and add timing and a GSK to help the top end. Don't forget to tune your AFC as well.
 
I'm going to go against the flow a little, but bear with me. I recommend the towing plate that was designed and cut here.

Austin Fuel Injection Performance Centertheaustinfuelinjection.com

With it, stock 215 injectors with over 300k miles on them, a HX-35 turbo and about 15* timing I dynoed 313/752 a couple weeks ago in SA. I disagree about stock gov springs. At 3200 rpm I was still charting over 500 pounds of tq. Those who were in attendance told me there was very little smoke at first and that it cleared completely up at WOT. I use this truck to tow commercially and have tried a couple of the standard recommended plates. None of them compare to the plate I have now for towing.

Since that time I have installed a totally unmolested 215 pump from a '96 for testing. I can drive at 2800 rpm on the freeway, then accelerate. To me, that shows not all pumps defuel at 2600 rpm.

Timing is dependent on what RPMs you will be driving at. Unlike a computer controlled injection pump, you are stuck at the same fuel injection timing no matter the RPM with a p-pump. If your normal rpm is in the 1800-2000 range 15 degrees should give you the best spoolup response and mileage. The more you advance the timing, the slower the turbo spoolup. Not a good thing with a trailer hung on the back. If 2100-2300 is more your style 15.5 ro 16 would be a good place to start.
 
SethR said:
Why would anyone waste money on a plate...
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Some of us have better things to do than stare at an EGT gauge while towing big trailers up big hills. Some of us would rather spend our money on beer than the wasted fuel that shows up as black smoke. I'm sure there are more reasons than that. Any more questions?
 
GAmes said:
Some of us have better things to do than stare at an EGT gauge while towing big trailers up big hills. Some of us would rather spend our money on beer than the wasted fuel that shows up as black smoke. I'm sure there are more reasons than that. Any more questions?
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Learn how to cut a damn plate and be less of a douche.
 
I just run a stock plate.

Epically post by a dumb phone.
 
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