What power mods should I do?

Now that you mention it, my boost leaks were like that. Torquey down low, then flattened out until I got enough rpm to spool through the boost leaks.

Fix leaks, and pull afc altogether and see what you can do then.

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as far as I know my star wheel is stock. may have to go and adjust it. I'm runnin an S300; it's able to spool it, but it feels like it plateaus and I cant push any more out of it.
 
Find or build you a leak tester and check for leaks. It you don't find any leaks try adjusting the star wheel.
 
BRE said:
Dude who pissed in your cheerios?!
First off, this is after all "competition diesel" not "towing central". I wanna know why your pulling 50k with a pickup anyhow.

Ease up a touch.

My 12v with stock charger, 5x.014's, no plate, no afc, tows just fine and gets exceptional fuel mileage.
My vp tows great and gets fuel mileage a 8k pound dually should get.

You must be sticking to the "load it like a boxcar drive it like a race car" rule.

Either way, it seems your a little butt hurt over something and I don't realy get why.
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I've had a bad run lately, not that its any excuse for being a prick. I just find it funny sometimes what people consider heavy hauling with a pickup. I know this is CompD but I will stick with what I've always said. If your using the truck as a truck, stock or only slightly modified is best. Otherwise your just putting extra stress on everything, not just the engine. Transmission, rear end, u joints, everything. If you want it reliable, leave it alone.

That's my opinion.
 
Limited said:
I've had a bad run lately, not that its any excuse for being a prick. I just find it funny sometimes what people consider heavy hauling with a pickup. I know this is CompD but I will stick with what I've always said. If your using the truck as a truck, stock or only slightly modified is best. Otherwise your just putting extra stress on everything, not just the engine. Transmission, rear end, u joints, everything. If you want it reliable, leave it alone.

That's my opinion.
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I also agree to a point. I'm not trying to say that I don't tow and I know most people here tow with theirs as well.
 
madmikeismad said:
1: Should not be idling at 10psi, either you have a 1/4" downpipe, or the gauge is wrong. And all trucks that I've seen, the gates open around 22psi, there wasn't really a different setting for different motors. It's just 22 or close to it.

2: Need a better description of doggy from 10-45mph. Try manually shifting, wheres boost at? You're 100% this is a stock turbo right?

3: You won't see a huge power gain out of taking the plate out with stock injectors, they're a pretty good governor in themselves. And the AFC is still controlling fuel all the way to max.
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drove the truck a bit last night after I start it, it idles at 10psi then when I drive it some it will idle at 0 boost. I have the standard issued Ford SD exhaust so it's not the down pipe. But the wild card here could be my gauge it is the Glowshift 3-in-1 gauge. I liked the idea of having 3 guages and not having my A pillar full of lights but I can not read my pyro half the time because of the glare. All I know of the turbo is that it was/is a cummins reman this motor was in a FedEx truck so I assume it was stock.

Doggy- I can not explain it other than it takes a long time to get to the first shift not that it is shifting too latr but it take alot of 2000 rpm to get to 10mph then same with 2-3 gear change once I get into OD and lock the TC if I get on it, it will get up and go. Again I think this could be the TV cable adjustment. I have not tried to manual shift it, I will see what that does.


Sorry I can't explane this better but I really don't know what to compare this to as I have never been in a 12v truck before and it has been 2 years since My truck moved under its own power with the 6.0l

I am really greatful for everyones help. Hopefully I will have time to mess with it some this week end.
 
Limited said:
I've had a bad run lately, not that its any excuse for being a prick. I just find it funny sometimes what people consider heavy hauling with a pickup. I know this is CompD but I will stick with what I've always said. If your using the truck as a truck, stock or only slightly modified is best. Otherwise your just putting extra stress on everything, not just the engine. Transmission, rear end, u joints, everything. If you want it reliable, leave it alone.

That's my opinion.
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1) You pay to play, and I'm pretty sure everyone here knows that.

2) If you truly consider heavy hauling with your one ton pickup to be a GCW of 50,000lbs, you're going to end up killing someone. Just because you have the power to pull something doesn't mean you have the brakes to stop it.
 
04fummins said:
drove the truck a bit last night after I start it, it idles at 10psi then when I drive it some it will idle at 0 boost. I have the standard issued Ford SD exhaust so it's not the down pipe. But the wild card here could be my gauge it is the Glowshift 3-in-1 gauge. I liked the idea of having 3 guages and not having my A pillar full of lights but I can not read my pyro half the time because of the glare. All I know of the turbo is that it was/is a cummins reman this motor was in a FedEx truck so I assume it was stock.
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Ditch the glowshift! You should not be showing 10psi at idle.

Did you block or adjust the wastegate yet? You don't want to leave it blocked, but it could be a good test to see if it raises boost levels.
 
I have heard things about the glowshifts but I got it 1.5 years ago as a gift.
I have not really messed with anything I only have about 20-30 miles on the truck since I got it inspected. I wanna get this worked out so I can drive it to work from time to time 90 miles one way just not comfortable with that yet, AAA only gets me 50 mile tow.

I will pay closer attention to how it is acting and report back to you after this week end. I will try some video if I can figure out this photo bucket, darn thing wont let me view videos. I can up load them just cant look at them. Maybe I will try this youtube thing.:hehe:
 
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04fummins said:
drove the truck a bit last night after I start it, it idles at 10psi then when I drive it some it will idle at 0 boost. I have the standard issued Ford SD exhaust so it's not the down pipe. But the wild card here could be my gauge it is the Glowshift 3-in-1 gauge. I liked the idea of having 3 guages and not having my A pillar full of lights but I can not read my pyro half the time because of the glare. All I know of the turbo is that it was/is a cummins reman this motor was in a FedEx truck so I assume it was stock.
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I would get rid of the Glowshift
 
update

ok folks,
I got to drive the truck some saturday put about 65 miles on it. I was able to really listen and feel what the truck is doing. I think my problem is Gov Springs. What I am feeling when I get into O.D. and TC lock is not the turbo lighting per say, but the rpms drop to below 2000 so it will allow the fuel to flow. At 2300 or so the fuel is cut off, so it falls on its face. So I will be ordering the 4GSK and installing the 3000 portion and see where that gets me. I still have the crazy boost numbers so I will be getting a new boost gauge as well.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Buy the Hamilton valve spring kit if you are going to use 3 or 4GSK the 60 lb springs are junk!
 
Funny... They have been used for a long time. You just be on to something.
 
TheOdgeMan said:
Buy the Hamilton valve spring kit if you are going to use 3 or 4GSK the 60 lb springs are junk!
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BRE said:
Funny... They have been used for a long time. You just be on to something.
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Of course Hamilton wants you to believe that, it's good for business.

That being said, I think they are better than the 60lbs and I wouldn't mind having a set; but for what I do my $100 60lb springs work just fine versus spending $550 on a set. Kind of like putting a triple disk clutch behind a 400rwhp daily driver.
 
EasternAggie said:
Of course Hamilton wants you to believe that, it's good for business.

That being said, I think they are better than the 60lbs and I wouldn't mind having a set; but for what I do my $100 60lb springs work just fine versus spending $550 on a set. Kind of like putting a triple disk clutch behind a 400rwhp daily driver.
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$100 or $500 its money well spent!
 
60# springs are fine if you aren't high rpm or real high boost.

You shouldn't need over 2300rpm to spool the stock turbo (If I'm understanding you right), the stock turbo should spool below 1500rpm. You've gotta have leaks or AFC needs adjusting.
 
madmikeismad said:
60# springs are fine if you aren't high rpm or real high boost.

You shouldn't need over 2300rpm to spool the stock turbo (If I'm understanding you right), the stock turbo should spool below 1500rpm. You've gotta have leaks or AFC needs adjusting.
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I think I just need to tune the afc and Adjust the TV cable. I figured out the crazy boost numbers and oil pressure numbers. I had my wires crossed:nail:. Now reads 0 boost @ idle and will get to 22ish when I get on it. And now I have 40psi of oil pressure and not 0.
 
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