What power mods should I do?

04fummins said:
OK so here is what has been done so far. Just trying a few things at a time.

I removed the plate altogether, backed the smoke screw all the way out, rotated the star wheel about 4 turns and moved the afc all the way forward. The truck moves much better now and there is no smoke except the puff at start up. I will be doing a little bit of research and will decide what to tinker with next.

Thanks
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Good deal.

IMO, do the GSK upgrade next. Inexpensive and effective.
 
YOUNG GUNS15- I am running the stock ford fuel pump I have blocked off the Cummins lift pump. Missed that before.

I still have not driven the truck much but I can tell you it is a bit doggy until I hit 4th and lock up the TC then it will go from 50 to 70 like a shot. I think I need to adjust my TVS cable theres a bit of slop in that. I just need more time to tinker with it. Last weekend was spend dropping the fuel tank on my DD to replace a fuel pump that was leaking- and its a 2008 cobalt :doh:

Also I think I need to check for a boost leak it doesn't get higher that 20psi and after I drive it for awhile at idle the boost drops to 5psi. also where should I put my boost sensor? mine is on my intake horn.
 
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04fummins said:
I still have not driven the truck much but I can tell you it is a bit doggy until I hit 4th and lock up the TC then it will go from 50 to 70 like a shot. I think I need to adjust my TVS cable theres a bit of slop in that. I just need more time to tinker with it. Last weekend was spend dropping the fuel tank on my DD to replace a fuel pump that was leaking- and its a 2008 cobalt :doh:

Also I think I need to check for a boost leak it doesn't get higher that 20psi and after I drive it for awhile at idle the boost drops to 5psi. also where should I put my boost sensor? mine is on my intake horn.
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I'm tellin ya, a GSK and timing will wake it up, and it's cheap to peform.

Is your wastegate still running at factory settings? My 215hp 12v was wastegated at 23psi stock, I think the lower hp 12v's were wastegated at 19 or 20 psi. At idle, the boost should drop down to 0psi. The intake horn will work, mine runs from a 1/8" pipe thread port on the side of the head (well the intake manifold).
 
Jakob - I'm in the same boat as you, and I look forward to see how it'll work out for you.

I've got a 94' with a 160 pump. just threw in 250hp injectors and an S300 turbo. still runnin off the cummins lift pump.

I'll be slipping in a #10 plate this weekend and 3k gsk this weekend to see if that'll help. Not sure if I have a shifting issue, or something else because i can have the pedal on the floor and anything over 50mph or so, the truck falls on its face. still have to wait and hear back fromthe datalogging on the trans
 
GAmes said:
Some of us have better things to do than stare at an EGT gauge while towing big trailers up big hills. Some of us would rather spend our money on beer than the wasted fuel that shows up as black smoke. I'm sure there are more reasons than that. Any more questions?
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Wow. I am impressed, it is nice to get a breath of fresh air every now and again. I always ran a plate in my old 12v, and lost power and boost(?) with its removal. I think running no plate is freakin' retarded on anything less than a competition only vehicle. It's like running the super smoker no power mega EGT tune all the time on your CR/Dmax/Stroker, gay as hell. We are not in high school anymore fellas.
 
Be patient with the GSK, I had to adjust mine probably 5 or 6 times when I first installed them to get it where I wanted. Why only a 3k gsk and not the 4k gsk? If you have "250hp" injectors then it would appear you are building the truck for peformance and not towing.

When I installed my GSK, it was NIGHT and DAY. Way more of a difference than taking out the plate or upgrading injectors ever made.
 
Limited said:
Wow. I am impressed, it is nice to get a breath of fresh air every now and again. I always ran a plate in my old 12v, and lost power and boost(?) with its removal. I think running no plate is freakin' retarded on anything less than a competition only vehicle. It's like running the super smoker no power mega EGT tune all the time on your CR/Dmax/Stroker, gay as hell. We are not in high school anymore fellas.
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How many times have we been through this... :soap:

1) If you have excessive black smoke on acceleration, it is most likely the result of a badly tuned the AFC. At times other than WOT (or at least when boost is built), the AFC, and not the plate, controls how much fuel the IP supplies, and whether or not your truck smokes.

2) The only time it would be necessary to run a plate is in a situation where your IP fuels more than your engine can burn at WOT (an example being if you upgrade injectors/DV's prior to upgrading a turbo, you would have a misbalance of fueling to air).

If your engine is efficient, and you are supplying sufficient air to completely combust the fuel at maximum rack travel, there is absolutely no reason in hell you would have to run a plate.

Although I am a bad example, if you are going to be cheap and upgrade the fuel, upgrade the fuel, upgrade the fuel... without ever considering upgrading the turbo or intercooler, yes I could see where you might have to run a plate to hold back the fuel, but that is purely your fault for having a mismatch of parts on your engine. Although you previously had a 12v, I think you've been in the VP world too long and forgot how to tune one of these engines. Or you never learned.
 
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EasternAggie said:
How many times have we been through this... :soap:

1) If you have excessive black smoke on acceleration, you have a badly tuned the AFC. At times other than WOT (or at least when boost is built), the AFC, and not the plate, controls how much fuel the IP supplies.

2) The only time it would be necessary to run a plate is in a situation where your IP fuels more than your engine can burn at WOT (an example being if you upgrade injectors/DV's prior to upgrading a turbo).

If your engine is efficient, and you are supplying sufficient air to completely combust the fuel at maximum rack travel, there is absolutely no reason in hell you would have to run a plate.

Although I am a bad example, if you are going to be cheap and upgrade the fuel, upgrade the fuel, upgrade the fuel... without ever considering upgrading the turbo or intercooler, yes I could see where you might have to run a plate to hold back the fuel, but that is purely your fault for having a mismatch of parts on your engine.
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X2, no plate here, lots of fuel, and no real smoke issues.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
 
EasternAggie said:
How many times have we been through this... :soap:

1) If you have excessive black smoke on acceleration, it is most likely the result of a badly tuned the AFC. At times other than WOT (or at least when boost is built), the AFC, and not the plate, controls how much fuel the IP supplies, and whether or not your truck smokes.

2) The only time it would be necessary to run a plate is in a situation where your IP fuels more than your engine can burn at WOT (an example being if you upgrade injectors/DV's prior to upgrading a turbo, you would have a misbalance of fueling to air).

If your engine is efficient, and you are supplying sufficient air to completely combust the fuel at maximum rack travel, there is absolutely no reason in hell you would have to run a plate.

Although I am a bad example, if you are going to be cheap and upgrade the fuel, upgrade the fuel, upgrade the fuel... without ever considering upgrading the turbo or intercooler, yes I could see where you might have to run a plate to hold back the fuel, but that is purely your fault for having a mismatch of parts on your engine. Although you previously had a 12v, I think you've been in the VP world too long and forgot how to tune one of these engines. Or you never learned.
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I am saying that when I removed the plate, I can't remember the #, it lost power in the same position. I have been bringing this up for years with never an answer why. It smoked more and ran hotter and made less power. Put the plate back in and it was like a different truck again.

Also, why the hell crank up a truck, IE run no plate, just to never get on it and "drive it like an adult"? What the hell did you turn it up for then?? I don't get this place anymore. Call me a kid if you want I don't friggin care. Ya'll are wiping before you crap as far as I am concerned. "Oh well just drive by the AFC" everyone says. I just want to drive the stupid truck and have power and pull things and not have to watch gauges all the time.


So I will say this once again, if you want a good reliable truck that will pull something(talking real weight, like 50,000 pounds, not your damn 10,000 camper that I pull easily with my half ton.) Leave it stock, and party on Garth.
 
Limited said:
I am saying that when I removed the plate, I can't remember the #, it lost power in the same position. I have been bringing this up for years with never an answer why. It smoked more and ran hotter and made less power. Put the plate back in and it was like a different truck again.

Also, why the hell crank up a truck, IE run no plate, just to never get on it and "drive it like an adult"? What the hell did you turn it up for then?? I don't get this place anymore. Call me a kid if you want I don't friggin care. Ya'll are wiping before you crap as far as I am concerned. "Oh well just drive by the AFC" everyone says. I just want to drive the stupid truck and have power and pull things and not have to watch gauges all the time.


So I will say this once again, if you want a good reliable truck that will pull something(talking real weight, like 50,000 pounds, not your damn 10,000 camper that I pull easily with my half ton.) Leave it stock, and party on Garth.
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If you're pulling 50k, then we're not talking about the same power levels.

20k gross with decent sized single and too much fuel, AFC only, is doing just fine for me. I still run it hard when I want, don't smoke out the street, and get great mileage.

So forgive some of us for not understanding why a plate is needed.

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EasternAggie said:
I'm tellin ya, a GSK and timing will wake it up, and it's cheap to peform.

Is your wastegate still running at factory settings? My 215hp 12v was wastegated at 23psi stock, I think the lower hp 12v's were wastegated at 19 or 20 psi. At idle, the boost should drop down to 0psi. The intake horn will work, mine runs from a 1/8" pipe thread port on the side of the head (well the intake manifold).
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I assume my wastegate is set at stock setting I bet it is set low since this was a med duty motor, I need to check that. well boost drops to near 0 after I drive it when I start it and it idles it is at 10 or so. my sensor is in an after market intake horn from Second Hand Smoke.

Hawker said:
Jakob - I'm in the same boat as you, and I look forward to see how it'll work out for you.
I've got a 94' with a 160 pump. just threw in 250hp injectors and an S300 turbo. still runnin off the cummins lift pump.

I'll be slipping in a #10 plate this weekend and 3k gsk this weekend to see if that'll help. Not sure if I have a shifting issue, or something else because i can have the pedal on the floor and anything over 50mph or so, the truck falls on its face. still have to wait and hear back fromthe datalogging on the trans
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Hawker don't wait too long for me this process will be slow going for me right now as I don't have much time to work on the truck working 60 hrs a week plus a 2 hour commute each way, and my weekends are full of kids soccer and football games.
My truck will fall on its face at about 10 mph and is doggy until 45ish then hold on when that turbo lites.


madmikeismad said:
X2, no plate here, lots of fuel, and no real smoke issues.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
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Mike I took my plate out too (mostly cause it was faster than grinding it down)
just to see if that would make any difference. With my afc all the way forward and smoke screw backed out all the way my truck will not smoke ever. and it seems to make a difference, enough that my wife noticed just riding along.
 
Limited said:
Wow. I am impressed, it is nice to get a breath of fresh air every now and again. I always ran a plate in my old 12v, and lost power and boost(?) with its removal. I think running no plate is freakin' retarded on anything less than a competition only vehicle. It's like running the super smoker no power mega EGT tune all the time on your CR/Dmax/Stroker, gay as hell. We are not in high school anymore fellas.
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Gay as hell huh? My truck with new 5x.018's .020 DVs, racked barrels, and no plate runs clean with a 66 single. It pumps out 600hp on fuel all day without ever pulling back, yeah I tow with it too.

I think it's obvious you didn't have the tuning "touch" If you lost power and boost when you removed the plate. So to make a blanket statement like that based on your FAILED tuning on a 12 valve years ago, is gay as hell.
 
04fummins said:
I assume my wastegate is set at stock setting I bet it is set low since this was a med duty motor, I need to check that. well boost drops to near 0 after I drive it when I start it and it idles it is at 10 or so. my sensor is in an after market intake horn from Second Hand Smoke.



Hawker don't wait too long for me this process will be slow going for me right now as I don't have much time to work on the truck working 60 hrs a week plus a 2 hour commute each way, and my weekends are full of kids soccer and football games.
My truck will fall on its face at about 10 mph and is doggy until 45ish then hold on when that turbo lites.




Mike I took my plate out too (mostly cause it was faster than grinding it down)
just to see if that would make any difference. With my afc all the way forward and smoke screw backed out all the way my truck will not smoke ever. and it seems to make a difference, enough that my wife noticed just riding along.
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1: Should not be idling at 10psi, either you have a 1/4" downpipe, or the gauge is wrong. And all trucks that I've seen, the gates open around 22psi, there wasn't really a different setting for different motors. It's just 22 or close to it.

2: Need a better description of doggy from 10-45mph. Try manually shifting, wheres boost at? You're 100% this is a stock turbo right?

3: You won't see a huge power gain out of taking the plate out with stock injectors, they're a pretty good governor in themselves. And the AFC is still controlling fuel all the way to max.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Gay as hell huh? My truck with new 5x.018's .020 DVs, racked barrels, and no plate runs clean with a 66 single. It pumps out 600hp on fuel all day without ever pulling back, yeah I tow with it too.

I think it's obvious you didn't have the tuning "touch" If you lost power and boost when you removed the plate. So to make a blanket statement like that based on your FAILED tuning on a 12 valve years ago, is gay as hell.
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Its not a real work truck then. I'm not trying to be a d!ck or call you out or any nonsense like that, but I'd like to see your truck with that setup pull wagons to the elevator all fall. With only 1 400 bushel wagon your at 22,400 pounds, not including the wagon itself. To do my home farm alone, that comes out to 130 trips, about 5 miles each way. I know that's not very far but that's the whole point. You are never going very fast, so no air to the radiator etc. And you have to stop and go several times, its a pretty good test for the truck. That's on gravel, up hills etc. No brakes on the wagons. Now hook a second wagon to it, and your double that. I admit we usually pull 1 at a time, but I've pulled 2 quite a few times as well. But that's all with Fords, dad's 03 still has the original 4R100, at like 130K. Would I do it with my truck? Maybe, after unhooking the ADR. Not with it on, even on low settings. It would melt down before I got the headlands off.

Sorry for stirring the pot.
 
Dude who pissed in your cheerios?!
First off, this is after all "competition diesel" not "towing central". I wanna know why your pulling 50k with a pickup anyhow.

Ease up a touch.

My 12v with stock charger, 5x.014's, no plate, no afc, tows just fine and gets exceptional fuel mileage.
My vp tows great and gets fuel mileage a 8k pound dually should get.

You must be sticking to the "load it like a boxcar drive it like a race car" rule.

Either way, it seems your a little butt hurt over something and I don't realy get why.
 
i finally got my boost gauge hooked up today and found out i have a massive boost leak. can't even get 15 psi with the throttle pinned going up hill.
 
Where is your star wheel set at now? Might have it too tight and the fuel is cut back, keeping you from getting boost. Or you got a pretty good boost leak somewhere.
 
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