your set up plus dyno numbers 12 valve only.

Nope

oldsmokey said:
Pretty sure those numbers are a little off! Were assuming traction issues lead to some spikes, the graph was ugly. Hopefully we will get some good numbers this weekend.

The pump is set at 625cc and 26 deg of timing to start hopefully in the 1100-1200 range.
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[ame]http://vid491.photobucket.com/albums/rr274/oldsmokey12/IMG_0027_zpsujcozn9h.mp4[/ame]
 
98 QCSB 2wd 12v.

Built Goerend auto, 5x16 infinite performance injectors, 7mm 100cc DVs, 4k gsk, Mack rack plug, no plate, 60 lb springs, arp 425 studs, secondary walbro 392 from bean's sump at around 70 psi fuel pressure, stainless 63/68/14 over s475 with 1.32 housing running around 70 psi, around 21* timing.

Made 642 and 9 something torque, wasn't a loaded dyno.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 
billet 64/83/.9 T4
5x.016 infinite performance injectors 155* spray pattern (westons recommendation)
switched from full cuts to 181's because I couldn't control egt's
no rack plug
no plate
timing slipped but it was at 18* (I'm fixing it now and plan on 21 or 22*)
4k gsk
stock bottom end and stock head + manifold except for t3/t4 adapter, o-rings, 425's, and 60lb springs
I did all afc mods
#10 plate is in the mail (in case)

I'm thinking 550 hp IF tuned perfectly (sorry i don't know for sure what the numbers are, and I am kind of hijacking but I feel like you guys can set me right with the high egt part and I had a few questions)

This is just a fun street truck. no towing and no pulling.

I've been trying to tun the afc, but it seems like I can't figure it out. For example: I feel like maybe it needs more fuel to light the charger, but then there will be even more heat too soon....BUT...if I cut back on some fuel, it won't be able to light the charger and then it'll still get hot because none of the fuel is being burnt fast enough.

With the bigger injectors I have, is it a good baseline for me to back the smoke screw totally out and tighten the starwheel as much as I can (turn towards battery, not towards the motor) so it takes a lot more boost before fuel starts getting thrown at it because the bigger injectors are already giving it "more pre boost fuel" ...sort of like taking the place of the smoke screw?

Put that #10 plate in too? I want to leave it out if I can and I see half the guys on this thread running no plate

At WOT, the egts will see 1800 pretty easily, but the most annoying thing is, I can't even go up a super small grade in o/d at like 50-55 and 1800-2000 rpm without it climbing right up past 1300 in one second. I can see 45-50 psi total. there's no smoke once theres boost, and if I roll into it from a stop, it hardly smokes. If I punch it in say 3rd gear at 1800 rpm, theres a big puff of smoke and two seconds later boost jumps to 10 then 20 psi and it clears right up but it seems like more of a dog than when I had no plate and no afc. When it wasn't feeling like a dog and was fast, the egt's just cruising were way too high

Sorry for this huge post and for asking the questions. just basically: start with more fuel and back off until its better? or pull all the fuel back and put in a plate and slowly add fuel until it feels good?

If i'm hijacking, please delete this post or whatever is necessary. Thanks guys
 
98 12 Valve. Stock pump, 5x.12's, Aurora 3000, BD intercooler. Made 301rwhp and 1006 ft/lbs torque to the wheels at 1800rpm.
 
Never had mine on dyno but I've never had any fun with it unless egt was over 1400. I did a 40 to 120 pull earlier 55+ psi but both egt gauges are broken. I did drive by a lightly modded fox body at around 100ish.
 
We did 490 and 13.1 with a hx35/40 I slapped together. 330 4x.013s, 191s, 4ks loose(not intentional), 45psi lift pump pressure and a on3 intercooler
 
Gasoline Sucks said:
Never had mine on dyno but I've never had any fun with it unless egt was over 1400. I did a 40 to 120 pull earlier 55+ psi but both egt gauges are broken. I did drive by a lightly modded fox body at around 100ish.
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I understand this. And I'm fine with that. I can grasp the whole torch to the aluminum can example and how if you just heat the can slowly and drift by it, it should be ok, but if you let the torch sit there, it'll crumple the can and melt it into nothin. My problem is when I'm just trying to drive like a little old lady and it's still climbing up to 1200 in no time when they should be at 6-800
 
Low timing will cause higher egt reading but the piston is actually cooler. Higher timing sends more heat into the cooling system.

I would try another probe and gauge if it still reads high with the timing up. It is gonna take some rpm to get it lit. Probably at least 1750. What spring is in your afc? How tight is your converter?
 
Stock afc spring and billet dpc triple disc stock stall converter. In general, is it better to start tuning the afc by backing the smoke screw so it isn't even touching the diaphragm and have the starwheel tight so the stock spring will let full fuel come on around 30 psi since I max out at 45-50 and it's clean burning? I know it can be tuned without a plate so I want it to make it work (correct me if I'm wrong and you think I really do need a plate to keep everything in check).

Btw, pyro gauge and probe are brand new isspro classic's that have less than 500 miles on them

I appreciate the help
 
Heat and stretch the stock spring 1/2" or get a 215 spring. Set full fuel to 35-38. Mine is clean as a whistle with stock stall stretched spring. If u stab it or go over 1/2 throttle it puffs and wide open it gets very dark over 50psi
 
Zeppelin654 said:
Stock afc spring and billet dpc triple disc stock stall converter. In general, is it better to start tuning the afc by backing the smoke screw so it isn't even touching the diaphragm and have the starwheel tight so the stock spring will let full fuel come on around 30 psi since I max out at 45-50 and it's clean burning? I know it can be tuned without a plate so I want it to make it work (correct me if I'm wrong and you think I really do need a plate to keep everything in check).

Btw, pyro gauge and probe are brand new isspro classic's that have less than 500 miles on them

I appreciate the help
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I usually put a small spring inside the stock spring streched and tune the afc to have a slower fuel curve/ more boost to rack travel ratio.

different for every combo, but i try to tag the springs together with a full open number on them. trial and error ish
 
550/1000, has more to go due to lack of fuel and air. Ported polished head, bigger intake valve, big block Chevy valve springs, joker fab intake, custom 093 lines, 5x18 injectors, maxed 160 pump, max spool pushrods, 24v tappets, balanced crank, shot peened and polished rods, main, rod and head studs, fire ringed with haisley gasket, 200/220 cam with fly cut non innercooled pistons, 2nd gen t4 steed speed manifold, billet 62/68 .83 and 84/75 1.10. Airdog 150 pump, next is bigger injection pump and gonna trade the 75 for an 80 to see what it'll do.
 

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Wow that engine is several hundred hp shy of what it should be. Sound like everything is a bit to big.
 
I expected more too, that's why I'm switching up turbos and pump this spring. Turbos were too small and cutting off the power
 
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