01 P Pump Build

Be careful while porting. My dumb ass got into a seat and I had to have my valves and seats ground.

Other than that, I dropped my EGT quite a bit and spool is better on a small turbo. I don't have the big one on yet.

Just don't think you have to have it look like a mirror in there. The professionals get them smooth smooth and that isn't necessary for a DIYer.
 
biggy238 said:
Be careful while porting. My dumb ass got into a seat and I had to have my valves and seats ground.

Other than that, I dropped my EGT quite a bit and spool is better on a small turbo. I don't have the big one on yet.

Just don't think you have to have it look like a mirror in there. The professionals get them smooth smooth and that isn't necessary for a DIYer.
Click to expand...

How much time did you have in you're and what hp are you at? Can I do this myself and put 1000hp down without having a "professional" do my head. I know I can port it myself I just don't understand the difference in CNC porting and someone doing it by hand. Do you get a big difference in say someone CNC porting a head compared to someone who has spent hours die grinding there own head. If that makes sense.. I don't want to waste the time and do it if I can't build a good head for 1000hp by doing it on my own



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here ya go:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158139

In my limited experience, the 24v head was much much more time consuming than the 12v head. Double the ports, smaller and harder to reach, much more material to remove, smaller bowl areas. Probably sink 25-30 hours into it easily. Get some long 6" good burrs and tons of cartridge rolls, course grit like 60 or coarser. It can be done by hand, try to use inside snap gauges to keep everything as close to the same as possible. Ultimately, flow benching will only tell if they are all exact, but I feel a person can get them pretty close. The human eye can tell up to 1/32" difference in objects. Pretty damn good IMO. Have lots of time to spend on it and be patient. Spend most of you time in the bowls.
 
Ghostman said:
Here ya go:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158139

In my limited experience, the 24v head was much much more time consuming than the 12v head. Double the ports, smaller and harder to reach, much more material to remove, smaller bowl areas. Probably sink 25-30 hours into it easily. Get some long 6" good burrs and tons of cartridge rolls, course grit like 60 or coarser. It can be done by hand, try to use inside snap gauges to keep everything as close to the same as possible. Ultimately, flow benching will only tell if they are all exact, but I feel a person can get them pretty close. The human eye can tell up to 1/32" difference in objects. Pretty damn good IMO. Have lots of time to spend on it and be patient. Spend most of you time in the bowls.
Click to expand...


Thanks man you've been really helpful if you get a chance shoot me a text 330-692-4984


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I had 16ish hours in mine. Duplication and flow matching is the advantage of cnc.
I was shooting for 6-700 but no idea where I am with it.

1000 would be a stretch with what I did. I posted some pictures around.
I used burrs and stones to smooth mine. The long shanks are where it's at. And a light you can stick in the ports that will stay.
 
biggy238 said:
I had 16ish hours in mine. Duplication and flow matching is the advantage of cnc.
I was shooting for 6-700 but no idea where I am with it.

1000 would be a stretch with what I did. I posted some pictures around.
I used burrs and stones to smooth mine. The long shanks are where it's at. And a light you can stick in the ports that will stay.
Click to expand...


So would you recomend me doing it for 1000hp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think you will have to to some degree. I hogged out my exhaust side. My cruising temp are 150-200 degrees cooler. To be fair, I bumped timing and went to 7mm DV's too.
Not sure what part had what affect.
Porting is a must, risk involved is what you will have to weigh out
 
biggy238 said:
I think you will have to to some degree. I hogged out my exhaust side. My cruising temp are 150-200 degrees cooler. To be fair, I bumped timing and went to 7mm DV's too.
Not sure what part had what affect.
Porting is a must, risk involved is what you will have to weigh out
Click to expand...


I just am scared even If I put 30 hours in porting it myself I won't have enough done to hit 1000 hp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
8e126b165c43a62a5f2d2b6f001a47e6.jpg
that looks nice. Lol cylinder 1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
f76729f04288f31c158e2a02419dc575.jpg

I knocked a bur off the right side and got scared.. I'm going to read up a little more


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
In reality not much has to be done for that hp. It will help to port it but doesn't need a full race port job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
97rada said:
In reality not much has to be done for that hp. It will help to port it but doesn't need a full race port job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Really? Im new to this so explain


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You can shove enough fuel and air in to make 1k without a port job. But you are there, why not?
 
What are everyone's thoughts on a 3 angle valve job? I know the machine shop was insistent that I have it done. They claimed it will increase flow and lets you get everything you can out of the port job.
 
Guess the machine shop got me again. I figured I'd mention it so he could get it done before putting everything back together.
 
Where did you get that porting kit. Looks nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Haisley and a few other places I called wanted close to 1600 dollars for porting and polishing alone. Id rather try it myself and be out 1000 bucks on a head if worse comes to worst.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top