01 P Pump Build

97rada said:
Where did you get that porting kit. Looks nice


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Summit racing equipment 96 pieces I thibk? Only 33 bucks. The carbine kit broke the bank. 79 bucks for 4


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b37d3dc7bc702250fc354b69ab8c7d0d.jpg



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Left quiet a bit over because I was scared but it will get milled off


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The more angles the better on the valve job. The throat area is the most important. Smoothing and radius corners as well as opening up to 90percent of valve diameter. Polishing takes a huge amount of time for not much gain. I spent about 5hrs on a 24 v head had all the pockets roughed in. And a 5 angle valve job
 
a332f5f1ee9186b23926bea6506e3bbd.jpg
all I have done so far about 10 minutes in.. Really scared to take much metal out


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jakerc69 said:
The more angles the better on the valve job. The throat area is the most important. Smoothing and radius corners as well as opening up to 90percent of valve diameter. Polishing takes a huge amount of time for not much gain. I spent about 5hrs on a 24 v head had all the pockets roughed in. And a 5 angle valve job
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So in my picture am I taking the right angles


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jakerc69 said:
The more angles the better on the valve job. The throat area is the most important. Smoothing and radius corners as well as opening up to 90percent of valve diameter. Polishing takes a huge amount of time for not much gain. I spent about 5hrs on a 24 v head had all the pockets roughed in. And a 5 angle valve job
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How much lapped surface does that leave you?
 
Anyone know where they focus at on the intake side of the head? I didn't see much of anything to remove


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i really didn't have to mess with the bowls on the intake side. i spent about 10hrs on both the heads i've done just in the bowls and smoothing & blending the exhaust ports
 
jlbayes said:
i really didn't have to mess with the bowls on the intake side. i spent about 10hrs on both the heads i've done just in the bowls and smoothing & blending the exhaust ports
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I mean where I cut the stock intake mani off at


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yea i know. do what was suggested with a piece of tig wire (coat hanger works too) and open the port up. just remember the more you enlarge the runner, the lazier it becomes at low lift.
 
jlbayes said:
yea i know. do what was suggested with a piece of tig wire (coat hanger works too) and open the port up. just remember the more you enlarge the runner, the lazier it becomes at low lift.
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That's my only worry. I don't know if I should just polish up the ruff casting marks on the runners and intake side and the do work in the bowls like I have and then go with it.. Did you see the bowl I did so far?


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Clean up the sharp edges, short side radius, open it up some, smooth it out. Read the link I posted, lots of good info there. The divider on the intake side can be cut down quite a bit to help open up the small port. You can put a vacuum cleaner on the valve side of the head, turn it on, and then dangle a fine string into the port to try and see how the air is flowing.

Reference these photos:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2151683&postcount=55
 
EvanBoothe said:
That's my only worry. I don't know if I should just polish up the ruff casting marks on the runners and intake side and the do work in the bowls like I have and then go with it.. Did you see the bowl I did so far?


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yes i did. I opened the thoat more than you have so far.
 
Ghostman said:
Clean up the sharp edges, short side radius, open it up some, smooth it out. Read the link I posted, lots of good info there. The divider on the intake side can be cut down quite a bit to help open up the small port. You can put a vacuum cleaner on the valve side of the head, turn it on, and then dangle a fine string into the port to try and see how the air is flowing.



Reference these photos:

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2151683&postcount=55
Click to expand...


Area around the valve guide. Should I stay where I'm at with that?? Or take more around it out


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