12V tricks

Look on the sticker under the hood...it will tell you the gearing. Sounds like 3.55's to me though!

Chris
 
I'm with Chris, sounds like 3.55s to me.

And it doesn't sound like a stock clutch. Might have a Valair:D
 
It sounds to me you are down on horsepower. Kind of like my truck was when I got it. I had all sorts of small issues that need attention. I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but give truck a good once over before you start going for hp increases. Replace fuel lines filter, check for boost leaks get the timing set. Then the mods you do will have the intended effect, and you will not have to retune everything after you make the repairs. That's the voice of experience talking.
 
CHEAP, EASY, and bang for the buck is a 4gsk and pulling the plate. It will make a HUGE difference and it doesn't get any easier than that. Obviously there are more things to do but those will be a great start you can do yourself until muddin comes to lend a hand.
 
try to find someone who has upraded there 215 truck and see if you cant get there dv's and sticks to start. I personally dont like not having a plate just pull the stock one and grind it to a 100 or 10 profile. that along with bumping the timing to 15* or 16* and a gsk will make it alot funner truck to drive.
 
Ok, cheap easy power... Find someone who can time your truck for you, get a boost elbow (set the boost at ~36psi), shim your governor springs, grind your plate to a 10 or 100 plate, slide everything (plate/AFC housing) forward, do the aforementioned grinding to the AFC barrel (not the foot) and that should get you somewhere

Depending on the what you get charged to have your truck timed, you should have less than $200 in the truck and if it is in proper running order before these mods you should see power levels in that 250-275hp and 650-675ft/lbs at the rear wheels :evil Though I would HIGHLY recommend installing those gauges BEFORE any modifications to the fueling on your truck.
 
Don't forget to do a search on the forms, a ton of info as been put out before, your plate is your total fuel, the AFC is the control........most don't get this part of it, belching smoke of the bottom end will get you smoke not total power.

Jim
 
But Jim, it will kill your fuel mileage, and make you look like you don't know how to tune a 12v:D
 
973604x4 said:
local guys say take the plate out. Pros? Cons?.
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I have heard bad things about taking the plate out. From what i have heard you run the risk of the throttle sticking wide open with no plate. I have actually seen that on one truck.
 
Plus you can tune better with it in. Same with the AFC, they serve a purpose.

Jim did 848 with his in.
 
My 97 will pull my fourteen thousand pound trailer at seventy five no problem with 4.10s. All i did to it was put a #8 plate in it that i push back when towing and forward when playing. For as much boost as i'm not running its plenty of fuel.
 
Don't forget to do a search on the forms, a ton of info as been put out before, your plate is your total fuel, the AFC is the control........most don't get this part of it, belching smoke of the bottom end will get you smoke not total power.

Jim
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AGREED - let the search button be your best friend. There's tons of information on this site...digging through it isnt the easiest, but it helps clear up the possibility for conflicting information
 
everywhere I read says something a little different, or maybe im not comprehending correctly. As I can see in this thread, theres a few different ideas/ways on how to mod these things. I'm totally new to this 12v stuff, CR's are about getting boring to me. One of those been there done that scenarios.

Gauges go in before any fueling mods.....

also looks like ive got a slight valve cover leak too. probably just a gasket.
 
The valve cover gaskets are the easiest thing you'll ever do in your life and they are cheap too. There is no worry about over or under tightening them either just run it down til its snug and you're done. While they are off, clean them up and paint them whatever color you want, ie, Cummins blue or body color of your truck. Really spruces up under the hood. Clean them real well and use laquer thinner to clean the outside of 'em before you paint them or your paint will get screwed up!!!! Use high heat engine primer, paint and clear coat. Do them and the boost tubes it will look alot sharper under the hood!!

As for mods- as far as the plate goes, i've heard many performance shops say no plate is dangerous blah blah blah, but i've ran my truck without a plate for 2 years, 40k miles of driving and i bury the pedal frequently without hesitation and its NEVER stuck on me. I'm not saying that theory is total BS, but i have only ever heard a shop say its taboo but never heard of it happening to anyone. Besides, if there is no plate in there, what is the fuel arm going to get stuck on? I'm no pump expert by any means but IMHO it is perfectly safe to run with no plate (EGT's aside) I also ran my 94 plateless for a while. I just prefer to drive a P-pump without a plate. The plate is annoying to me and i haven't found a plate that makes the power as no plate does, or drives like i prefer. I have tuned up many 12V's around here for people i know, and they are all going plate-less. I tell them of the warning i've been told about no plate dangers but they know i've never had or seen it happen and they are fine taking that small risk. One BIG performance shop told me that running no plate was not a problem and of course other shops will tell you it is, how can they sell you a plate if you don't need it? Naturally they will tell you you have to have it, so that they can sell you one! Makes sense?

On the governor springs- they are a huge PITA. I did mine myself and probably will never do a set for anyone else. A friend has been bugging me to put his in for months i have been putting it off. As long as his transmission keeps giving him troubles it will be even longer lol

I haven't gotten real familiar with the AFC stuff yet, i just jammed the starwheel full forward and haven't had it apart to mess with. This is my next thing i will get into, playing with that to see whats best.
So for you AFC guys, if i'm after the most power i can get, what is better to modify the AFC or to just gut it? I like my smoke but i rather power than smoke. If i can get both thats fine with me!!!

Thanks
Eric
 
No Tricks? You could have fooled me! All I know is It was 96 the other day my truck real unhappy with a slower spoolen turbo and plenty plenty of fuel i could barley keep here below 1k on the pyro! If you gonna put fuel to it you gotta have that pyro.......
 
displacedtexan said:
I took about 0.08" off. Just the end where it will give you more travel. Only really one end that would make sense to grind one, pretty obvious once you get it apart. I left the taper on mine, just removed the bevel on it, for a hair more low end fuel.
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I'd like to see a picture with measurements of this extra travel... I flipped the washers, and ground the small raised lip on the "new" front washer to get as much out of the diaphram as possible. With the wheel full forward, the washer still hit the housing about 1/16 inch BEFORE the barrel could touch the housing. Grinding material off the barrel would do nothing as it can't touch anyway.
 
I'd like to see a picture with measurements of this extra travel... I flipped the washers, and ground the small raised lip on the "new" front washer to get as much out of the diaphram as possible. With the wheel full forward, the washer still hit the housing about 1/16 inch BEFORE the barrel could touch the housing. Grinding material off the barrel would do nothing as it can't touch anyway.
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Put a small washer in front of it, one that is small enough to go inside the spring or grind on the housing on the inside, the best would be a different designed housing with lots of travel.

Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
Put a small washer in front of it, one that is small enough to go inside the spring or grind on the housing on the inside, the best would be a different designed housing with lots of travel.

Jim
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My housing has been modded and then some for more travel with great results. There is more to it than housing mods.
 
Anybody want to elaborate more on adding clearance to the housing?

I would assume you just remove a little material to allow whatever hits to travel farther, but a picture/arrows would be nice.....
DSC00631.jpg

Thanks,
Derek
 
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