1951 Cockshutt 30–1.9L TDI Swap

Five picture limit on posts now, so here’s part two.

The .83 A/R EFR turbine housing came this week. It’s an interesting piece for sure.

https://imgur.com/XJeW7Ef

The wastegate on this one is no joke.
https://imgur.com/O7FyQZU

It can be made to fit the S200 with some machining, nothing too difficult. A little spacer ring, plus the front needs to be milled down a bit.
https://imgur.com/No1Aghs
https://imgur.com/bprhm0o

All that said, I’m not sure how it would spool. It is quite large, and isn’t a twin scroll so I don’t know how responsive it would be, even with the smaller turbine wheel. I’m not opposed to trying it, but there’s some work involved because I would have to make a new hotpipe for it. In that case, it wouldn’t be too hard to switch back to the VGT, I suppose.

For reference, this is it next to a 9cm HE351 housing.
https://imgur.com/TRJzLiI
 
So the efr housing is for the same 68mm wheel then? mmm might be extra laggy when considering that its an open volute. I don't think you will be happy with it when compared to your s200 (manifold turdo experience). I' still using a 62mm and 64mm turbine wheel setup on my 5spd truck and couldn't be happier. Its just an under fueled tow pig with factory sized injectors and DV's but it gets the job done.
 
The efr housing fits the S200 turbine wheel (61mm).
I agree, with a 68 it would be very slow to spool. I’m not even sure how it would do with the 61mm. I wonder if the efr housings are looser/higher flowing because they have the lightweight alloy turbine wheels and ball bearings which offset the spool times?
 
61mm, ok this sounds better. The efr has a bigger A/R than the 9cm so it could be a good combination. Would be neat to have a turbo speed gauge to dial in the wastegate. I'm likely going use my turbo speed gauge to setup both turbo's on my compound setup on the car. I'll get readings from both turbo's just not at the same time.
 
I’ve honestly never used a shaft speed gauge. I’ve always gotten by just by looking at boost and drive pressure, but I imagine seeing shaft RPM would add an interesting dynamic to it. I should try it one day.

Come to think of it, I did mess with an IAT gauge this summer, but its location in the intake plate didn’t work well, I think because it picked up too much heat from the cylinder head. I think I would have to add a bung to the intake horn to get a good reading.

Anyway, this is where I am with the 30.

https://imgur.com/qA5X3lc

Fuel tank mount, control panel, throttle, steering wheel holder, etc. I’m trying to get this stuff all painted before the cold hits so I can start adding wires and gauges over the winter. I picked up a plastic fuel tank for a lawnmower that I can use temporarily so I can start the engine at some point too.

There are some sections on this assembly that have bad rust pitting on them, and I ran out of high-build primer so I’ll have to get more this week. That stuff worked well when I did the PTO lever, filling in the pits to make it look new again, so I want to use it on the throttle lever as well as the control panel—I don’t want nice new gauges installed in a rough-looking surface, even if it’s freshly painted.

This is the throttle lever up close. You can see the pitting on it. I have to build it up quite a bit more then sand it down before painting.
https://imgur.com/1vyHylI

Same with the control panel.
https://imgur.com/xrQANg9

I’ll keep at it this week. I’m not sure how to paint this assembly; if I do the pieces separately and then try to put them together, I think the paint will end up gouged or scraped because the pieces are a tight fit. I think I will prime every thing separately, put it together and then paint it as one unit.

This last little piece is the throttle detent spring. It’s rough, but I can’t get a replacement so I just sandblasted it and will paint it separately while doing everything else. The coils normally touch, and I was worried the paint would bridge across and dry as one big layer, which would crack as soon as the spring twists when in use, so I jammed some welding wire between the coils so the paint will go between them and coat each coil separately. After it’s dry, I’ll pull the welding wire out and we’ll see how that works.
https://imgur.com/oKvLuF9
 
I finished the control panel and fuel tank mount yesterday. All came out OK, except the control panel decided to fall face-down on the floor when it was partially painted, resulting in a ding where it hit the floor, plus a bunch of dirt sticking to the primer. I finished painting it—after a quick wipe down, which left a bunch of fibres and lint behind, but I was in a hurry since some paint was already on it—and it turned out OK, but you can see the lint in the paint. I’ll have to fix it later when the paint is fully cured; some sanding and one more coat should do it.

This was disappointing because I spent most of the week prepping it with high-build primer and lots of sanding, but everything else turned out nice. I’m especially happy with the throttle lever.

In the last post I showed the first coats of high-build primer, which had run out. After getting more (only white in stock, no grey) during the week, I added a good layer more and let it dry for a day before sanding.

Here is the throttle after sanding.

https://imgur.com/DrGUHxB

Part of the fuel tank mount.
https://imgur.com/xieA0Aj
 
I screwed up and hit the ‘post reply’ button early.

So anyway, here is the control panel after sanding:
https://imgur.com/XACmvuw

Before painting, I had to go over all the switches that are going in the control panel to make sure they fit. The gauges, ignition switch and light switch fit, but the push button and glow plug light were bigger than the holes available. I fixed that by drilling out two existing holes to fit.

After that I was finally able to paint, which went fine aside from the one piece falling.

Throttle:
https://imgur.com/c2km4Qv
https://imgur.com/S8STDxf
https://imgur.com/J1kvD1Z
 
Five picture limit; here’s the rest.

Rooster comb for the throttle detent and original air filter mount.
https://imgur.com/twea2fr

This is that spring for the throttle detent that I jammed the welding wire into so the paint wouldn’t stick together.
https://imgur.com/N84Be4B

The rest is the fuel tank mount and control panel assembly. The lint in the paint doesn’t show up in the photo, so it’ll basically look like that when the paint is fixed. In person it looks worse. I’m looking forward to installing the new gauges and switches in it, but now that’ll have to wait until I can redo that panel.
https://imgur.com/XjH5uNw
https://imgur.com/WjAFTAO
https://imgur.com/DqjOAPm

There were some pitted areas that I didn’t bother filling because they aren’t visible when it’s put together. As long as the rust is cleaned out, it’ll be fine.
 
Looks like you are on the home stretch. Sucks about the gauge panel. I seem to have mostly that kind of luck with painting.
 
On to the steering column. The more I get painted, the more I can put together during the winter.

The steering shaft and u-joints are not original on this tractor; the previous owner appears to have made a new components using 7/8” round stock, joined together with some generic u-joints.

The shaft cleaned up nice, being new material, but after looking at the u-joints I decided to replace them. The issue I had was that they are not a needle bearing u-joint, but rather a block with a pin to achieve its articulation. The problem is that they have a few degrees of play in them, and with two in a line I think that will translate into a noticeable bit of extra slack in the steering wheel.

https://imgur.com/7gWvDMZ

The solution was to get the original needle bearing style steering joints, but the problem with those is two-fold: one is that the new shaft that the previous owner made attaches to the joints using a slotted keyway with set-screws and the originals use a through-pin to lock it in place. The other problem with the originals is that they cost $170 USD each.

The solution was on eBay in the form of universal u-joints that fit a 7/8” shaft with a slotted keyway, use needle bearings and cost $30 each. They’re on the way as we speak.

Next was the steering wheel itself. The previous owner again created his own solution by using a plastic generic steering wheel that mounts to the shaft with a tapered end, locked by a keyway and a nut on the end to press it on—much like a p-pump gear. The original steering wheel was a straight press-on with a through-pin to lock it together.

I had purchased an original reproduction steering wheel not long after I purchased the tractor, so now it was time to put it to use. After some brief thoughts on how to adapt it to the tapered shaft, I ended up simply cutting off 80% of the taper and pressing the new steering wheel on the fresh end. This makes the steering wheel sit about 1.25” lower, but I don’t know if the setup the previous owner built was at the proper height anyway. In the end, I don’t think it’ll matter much. I can always adjust the seat forward if it feels too far away.

This is the new original style steering wheel pressed onto the shaft. All Cockshutt tractors of this era used the same wheel, whether you had a 30, 35, 40 or 50 (not sure about the 20, honestly) so it’s the same install method for all.

https://imgur.com/4cdMR6N

After this, I had to drill through the shaft (using the holes in the steering wheel hub as a guide) so I could install the pin. I ended up using a roll pin because I didn’t have the proper size dowel, and also my angle-drilling and bit sizes weren’t precise enough for a perfect press fit.

As far as the intermediate shaft, it just needed a touch from the wire wheel and it was ready.
https://imgur.com/nrIuK1l

After some sanding and masking yesterday afternoon, it all got a coat of fresh red paint and is now waiting for install.

https://imgur.com/3g97lDy
https://imgur.com/RRYbRxR
 
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