1951 Cockshutt 30–1.9L TDI Swap

Five picture limit on posts now, so here’s part two.

The .83 A/R EFR turbine housing came this week. It’s an interesting piece for sure.

https://imgur.com/XJeW7Ef

The wastegate on this one is no joke.
https://imgur.com/O7FyQZU

It can be made to fit the S200 with some machining, nothing too difficult. A little spacer ring, plus the front needs to be milled down a bit.
https://imgur.com/No1Aghs
https://imgur.com/bprhm0o

All that said, I’m not sure how it would spool. It is quite large, and isn’t a twin scroll so I don’t know how responsive it would be, even with the smaller turbine wheel. I’m not opposed to trying it, but there’s some work involved because I would have to make a new hotpipe for it. In that case, it wouldn’t be too hard to switch back to the VGT, I suppose.

For reference, this is it next to a 9cm HE351 housing.
https://imgur.com/TRJzLiI
 
So the efr housing is for the same 68mm wheel then? mmm might be extra laggy when considering that its an open volute. I don't think you will be happy with it when compared to your s200 (manifold turdo experience). I' still using a 62mm and 64mm turbine wheel setup on my 5spd truck and couldn't be happier. Its just an under fueled tow pig with factory sized injectors and DV's but it gets the job done.
 
The efr housing fits the S200 turbine wheel (61mm).
I agree, with a 68 it would be very slow to spool. I’m not even sure how it would do with the 61mm. I wonder if the efr housings are looser/higher flowing because they have the lightweight alloy turbine wheels and ball bearings which offset the spool times?
 
61mm, ok this sounds better. The efr has a bigger A/R than the 9cm so it could be a good combination. Would be neat to have a turbo speed gauge to dial in the wastegate. I'm likely going use my turbo speed gauge to setup both turbo's on my compound setup on the car. I'll get readings from both turbo's just not at the same time.
 
I’ve honestly never used a shaft speed gauge. I’ve always gotten by just by looking at boost and drive pressure, but I imagine seeing shaft RPM would add an interesting dynamic to it. I should try it one day.

Come to think of it, I did mess with an IAT gauge this summer, but its location in the intake plate didn’t work well, I think because it picked up too much heat from the cylinder head. I think I would have to add a bung to the intake horn to get a good reading.

Anyway, this is where I am with the 30.

https://imgur.com/qA5X3lc

Fuel tank mount, control panel, throttle, steering wheel holder, etc. I’m trying to get this stuff all painted before the cold hits so I can start adding wires and gauges over the winter. I picked up a plastic fuel tank for a lawnmower that I can use temporarily so I can start the engine at some point too.

There are some sections on this assembly that have bad rust pitting on them, and I ran out of high-build primer so I’ll have to get more this week. That stuff worked well when I did the PTO lever, filling in the pits to make it look new again, so I want to use it on the throttle lever as well as the control panel—I don’t want nice new gauges installed in a rough-looking surface, even if it’s freshly painted.

This is the throttle lever up close. You can see the pitting on it. I have to build it up quite a bit more then sand it down before painting.
https://imgur.com/1vyHylI

Same with the control panel.
https://imgur.com/xrQANg9

I’ll keep at it this week. I’m not sure how to paint this assembly; if I do the pieces separately and then try to put them together, I think the paint will end up gouged or scraped because the pieces are a tight fit. I think I will prime every thing separately, put it together and then paint it as one unit.

This last little piece is the throttle detent spring. It’s rough, but I can’t get a replacement so I just sandblasted it and will paint it separately while doing everything else. The coils normally touch, and I was worried the paint would bridge across and dry as one big layer, which would crack as soon as the spring twists when in use, so I jammed some welding wire between the coils so the paint will go between them and coat each coil separately. After it’s dry, I’ll pull the welding wire out and we’ll see how that works.
https://imgur.com/oKvLuF9
 
I finished the control panel and fuel tank mount yesterday. All came out OK, except the control panel decided to fall face-down on the floor when it was partially painted, resulting in a ding where it hit the floor, plus a bunch of dirt sticking to the primer. I finished painting it—after a quick wipe down, which left a bunch of fibres and lint behind, but I was in a hurry since some paint was already on it—and it turned out OK, but you can see the lint in the paint. I’ll have to fix it later when the paint is fully cured; some sanding and one more coat should do it.

This was disappointing because I spent most of the week prepping it with high-build primer and lots of sanding, but everything else turned out nice. I’m especially happy with the throttle lever.

In the last post I showed the first coats of high-build primer, which had run out. After getting more (only white in stock, no grey) during the week, I added a good layer more and let it dry for a day before sanding.

Here is the throttle after sanding.

https://imgur.com/DrGUHxB

Part of the fuel tank mount.
https://imgur.com/xieA0Aj
 
I screwed up and hit the ‘post reply’ button early.

So anyway, here is the control panel after sanding:
https://imgur.com/XACmvuw

Before painting, I had to go over all the switches that are going in the control panel to make sure they fit. The gauges, ignition switch and light switch fit, but the push button and glow plug light were bigger than the holes available. I fixed that by drilling out two existing holes to fit.

After that I was finally able to paint, which went fine aside from the one piece falling.

Throttle:
https://imgur.com/c2km4Qv
https://imgur.com/S8STDxf
https://imgur.com/J1kvD1Z
 
Five picture limit; here’s the rest.

Rooster comb for the throttle detent and original air filter mount.
https://imgur.com/twea2fr

This is that spring for the throttle detent that I jammed the welding wire into so the paint wouldn’t stick together.
https://imgur.com/N84Be4B

The rest is the fuel tank mount and control panel assembly. The lint in the paint doesn’t show up in the photo, so it’ll basically look like that when the paint is fixed. In person it looks worse. I’m looking forward to installing the new gauges and switches in it, but now that’ll have to wait until I can redo that panel.
https://imgur.com/XjH5uNw
https://imgur.com/WjAFTAO
https://imgur.com/DqjOAPm

There were some pitted areas that I didn’t bother filling because they aren’t visible when it’s put together. As long as the rust is cleaned out, it’ll be fine.
 
Looks like you are on the home stretch. Sucks about the gauge panel. I seem to have mostly that kind of luck with painting.
 
On to the steering column. The more I get painted, the more I can put together during the winter.

The steering shaft and u-joints are not original on this tractor; the previous owner appears to have made a new components using 7/8” round stock, joined together with some generic u-joints.

The shaft cleaned up nice, being new material, but after looking at the u-joints I decided to replace them. The issue I had was that they are not a needle bearing u-joint, but rather a block with a pin to achieve its articulation. The problem is that they have a few degrees of play in them, and with two in a line I think that will translate into a noticeable bit of extra slack in the steering wheel.

https://imgur.com/7gWvDMZ

The solution was to get the original needle bearing style steering joints, but the problem with those is two-fold: one is that the new shaft that the previous owner made attaches to the joints using a slotted keyway with set-screws and the originals use a through-pin to lock it in place. The other problem with the originals is that they cost $170 USD each.

The solution was on eBay in the form of universal u-joints that fit a 7/8” shaft with a slotted keyway, use needle bearings and cost $30 each. They’re on the way as we speak.

Next was the steering wheel itself. The previous owner again created his own solution by using a plastic generic steering wheel that mounts to the shaft with a tapered end, locked by a keyway and a nut on the end to press it on—much like a p-pump gear. The original steering wheel was a straight press-on with a through-pin to lock it together.

I had purchased an original reproduction steering wheel not long after I purchased the tractor, so now it was time to put it to use. After some brief thoughts on how to adapt it to the tapered shaft, I ended up simply cutting off 80% of the taper and pressing the new steering wheel on the fresh end. This makes the steering wheel sit about 1.25” lower, but I don’t know if the setup the previous owner built was at the proper height anyway. In the end, I don’t think it’ll matter much. I can always adjust the seat forward if it feels too far away.

This is the new original style steering wheel pressed onto the shaft. All Cockshutt tractors of this era used the same wheel, whether you had a 30, 35, 40 or 50 (not sure about the 20, honestly) so it’s the same install method for all.

https://imgur.com/4cdMR6N

After this, I had to drill through the shaft (using the holes in the steering wheel hub as a guide) so I could install the pin. I ended up using a roll pin because I didn’t have the proper size dowel, and also my angle-drilling and bit sizes weren’t precise enough for a perfect press fit.

As far as the intermediate shaft, it just needed a touch from the wire wheel and it was ready.
https://imgur.com/nrIuK1l

After some sanding and masking yesterday afternoon, it all got a coat of fresh red paint and is now waiting for install.

https://imgur.com/3g97lDy
https://imgur.com/RRYbRxR
 
Some random items got finished. I was jumping around to different things, mainly because I wanted to get as much painting finished as I could before winter hits. It’s been holding off, honestly, which is good because I got more done than expected.

Those new steering U-joints arrived, so I was able to install and paint those. I tried to install the steering shaft this weekend, and while it almost slipped through the gap between the block and turbo oil drain, just under the turbo, it didn’t quite make it. This means I will have to add some extra U-joints and route the steering shaft around the turbo.

https://imgur.com/AzHEmsI
https://imgur.com/JiJXdLF

You can see that these U-joints have both a hole for a cross pin as well as a slot for a key. I used both, but had to drill the holes. As said, it looks like I’ll have to order two more.

https://imgur.com/Jwzp0sh

Above is the main steering shaft with the U-joint on the bottom. This is the shaft that will likely need to be cut in two places to clear the turbo. The right brake pedal is also present here.

The other thing I finished was making extended brake linkages. Because my refurbish job on the brake shoes used thicker material, the lever is positioned further away from the pedals and the links don’t reach. The easiest solution was to procure some 7/16” rod and make longer ones. Pretty easy; just measure, bend the ends ninety degrees and drill them for a cotter pin, and then thread the other ends at 7/16–20 for the clevises.
https://imgur.com/MPikwC8

I test fitted them to adjust for length and to synchronize the brake pedals, then added a jam nut to each link.
https://imgur.com/Uv3bMUS

More to come.
 
Another little thing was making a new pin for locking the brake pedals together. The old one was functional, but it was rust-pitted badly and I figured it was easier just to buy a 3/8” rod and make a new one rather than mess with filling those pits.

https://imgur.com/t6lhDFX

After some paint…
https://imgur.com/zu9qZto

I was able to install the brake links and the right-hand brake pedal, as well as the new lock pin.
https://imgur.com/Ybhquyw
https://imgur.com/npFs8sU

That pretty much finalizes the brakes, which is a nice milestone.

That was all painted on Tuesday, the last warm day here. The one last thing to talk about is repainting the control panel.

I did that this morning, but I had to do it in the house—which I hate because it stinks and makes a mess. It was too cold outside though, and I wanted this thing finished so I can install it and get onto wiring and gauges, throttle, etc.


Not much to say here; I just masked it off, sanded out the lint and repainted. It looks a lot better now, but not perfect. There’s still some tiny pinpoints in the paint, but I’m not sure what from. I wiped and blew it off before painting to be sure. It almost kinda looks like little tiny bubbles came from underneath?

I dunno, but it looks good enough for me.

https://imgur.com/o5q5Rwt

That’s it for now. It was hard to make this post because I’ve been all over the place lately and I didn't do very well with taking pictures and what not. Hopefully next weekend I can mount that control panel and get onto some wiring.
 
Not much to say here, but the pictures look nice. I’m in the process of drawing up wiring diagrams, so nothing is actually hooked up or even fastened in place; this is mostly just so we can see what it will look like.

Correction, the fuel tank mount is the one thing that is actually fastened.
https://imgur.com/gSBF1z3

And here is the control cluster with everything set in place.
https://imgur.com/Z1npLr2

Top left black knob—starter
Top middle white knob—lights
Top right little silver thing—glow plug indicator
Bottom left silver button—glow plugs on
Bottom right key switch—ignition
The gauges should be self evident.

https://imgur.com/UiWoTT9

I got the throttle lever installed as well, which allowed me to finally measure how long of a throttle cable I need to order. Oddly enough, the one I ended up ordering on ebay came from shortpartybusdriver.

https://imgur.com/F5QHp91
https://imgur.com/VCsiYjm

I have to go shopping for wire, connectors, etc. before I can wire anything up. Might do that tomorrow. Then we’ll see if I have any good grounds through all this paint I’ve been spraying.
 
I managed to start some wiring this weekend, but it is a slow process. I’m trying to keep it simple to avoid a rat’s nest of wires, but the Autometer gauges with their backlighting make that a tough proposition. Same with the glow plug relay.

I’m nowhere close to being done, partly because I keep needing to go get more things that I don’t have, and partly because it’s getting cold out.

Anyway, I did manage to get a hold of a decent used battery and some new cables, so I did the first starter crank yesterday—with no compression because the glow plugs are not installed yet. There’s a short video of it here:


I couldn’t crank it much; just once or twice since there is no oil in it yet. I still need to mount the oil filters to close up the system before that can happen.

Other than that, after checking with an ohmmeter to see if I had decent case grounds, I started fabricating the wire harness. As said, it’s a slow process running and organizing it (along with a small fuse block and relay(s), but in the end it’ll be worth it to have a nice clean bundle tucked away, with wire colours written down to make future testing easier.

https://imgur.com/a/BX2MsyS

One question for any VE pump guys following along:
Is it necessary to power up the on/off solenoid with a relay? Or would the key switch be sufficient? I don’t know how much the solenoid draws, but if I can keep the wiring simplified by not using a relay I would prefer that.
 
I have mostly finished with the wiring harness on the tractor, aside from the headlights because they mount to the hood and seat, which aren’t mounted yet.

I’ve decided to run the VE pump solenoid through the ignition switch only, no relay. What I did was see how small of a fuse would power the pump without blowing; I started with a 3 amp and it held, meaning the solenoid draws less than that. There’s no need for a relay at less than 3 amps.

Anyway, I did add all the wires for everything, including the lights and alternator (I left the wires long so I can finish them later) so after routing the main harness and taping it together, I checked the function of everything (assuming the gauges are reading OK—I can’t check that because the engine doesn’t run yet) and then removed the harness to wrap it up.

Here it is laid out on the table. Yes, I brought it into the warm house to do this part.

https://imgur.com/e8xfv6g

The end on the right goes into the control panel. I tried my best to keep the clutter down and minimize wires, but those Autometer gauges require a lot of wires to work—five per gauge for the oil and water, four wires for the voltmeter.

Anyway, I wrapped the entire harness except for the offshoots with electrical tape to stiffen it, then I sheathed it with the plastic braided wire loom. That stuff looks nice and can expand over the bigger sections, but it can be a pain to work with because it acts like a Chinese finger trap when you’re trying to slide it on and it gets stuck.

Here it is finished, minus a few connectors on the offshoots.
https://imgur.com/3fD84kg
https://imgur.com/gfP5LiI

After that I went back out into the cold garage (first snow of the year today) and reinstalled the harness after adding a few more connections, like the relay, which I obviously couldn’t slide the loom over.

Here is the inside of the control panel with everything hooked up. There is a smaller separate harness that feeds the ignition switch from the fuse panel and then leads to the relay. These don’t cross paths with the main harness so they are their own discrete unit.
https://imgur.com/alaR3V5
 
This is the next section back, above the starter. You can see the glow plug relay, along with the main harness and the oil pressure sensor for the gauge at the top left. It is mounted away from the engine as per Autometer’s instructions; apparently engine vibration can break the sensor off at the threads, so they recommend running a line to the sensor and mounting it somewhere stable.
https://imgur.com/NFsKjrE

Here is the engine with the harness ran along the valve cover. I plan to replace the valve cover bolts with studs so I can double nut the harness clips so I can remove it without detorquing the valve cover.

https://imgur.com/fWAkqEV

You can also see at the bottom of that picture where the small copper line goes from the oil filter adapter to the sensor under the fuel tank mount, above the starter.

That’s as far as I got today. It still needs one or two holes drilled in the fuel tank mount to attach wire clips, and as said, the head light wiring will have to wait until later.

Here is a short video of the control panel doing its thing.


Not gonna lie, this job was a lot more tedious than you’d think. I’m generally happy with how it turned out; there are a couple imperfections in the harness, but those are aesthetic only. It functions fine… so far.
 
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