2003 - 2007 5.9cr & he351ve

Anyone know of any other electronic controllers for the VGT besides Fleece Performance? I have been trying to get a part number, price and shipping costs for some time now via email and nothing yet. I am a little nervous about the slow response to sales inquiries. If they are this slow about sales what will it be like if there is a issue with the product? :confused:

Anyone have experience with Fleece Performance?

Thanks.
 
Anyone have experience with Fleece Performance?

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

I did purchase the Fleece VGT controller 2 weeks ago. Better to call and speak with Caleb. Dont quote me, but it seems they are having difficulty with the ordering function of their website.

Nothing but good things to say about Caleb. [Caleb, thanks for being patient with me.]

I got the VGT Controller along with the shifter mount and spent just over $700.

Hope this is what your looking for.
 
update and need some help folks

Well,

By biggest hold up for now is Congress. If payday doesn't come on the 15th like normal, there will be no $$$ for a controler and this whole deal is on stand-by, just like the rest of the country.:bs:

Congress did their job, for now.

Bit the bullet and forked over the cash for the VGT controller.

Got the controller installed... "bench tested" the 351 and it appears to work though it took a little manipulation to get the e. brake to free up from being packed tightly in carbon build up.

Ironically, this is where things have come to a hault...

Got to looking at the manifold flange once I had a new crush gasket in hand and realized this is a problem. "If the glove dont fit....."

I know others have said on here that an adaptor is needed while some have said [I think] to just drill the existing manifold. Drilling something that is prone to cracking doesnt seem smart to me, so I suppose an adaptor is called for. Looking at Ebay to see what is available, I just dont know what to get. There must be 2 dozen T3/T4 adaptors to look at.

Bigger problem that I see stemming from this is I have an AFE Proguard 7, factory replacement airbox and elbow. Most the adaptors I am seeing drop the turbo 2 1/2". This elbow is hard plastic and cutting it is out of the question. If I cant get filtered air to the turbo, then what? Scrub the whole project?

Also, I have a ANSA, 4" turbo-back exhaust. Changing the alignment of this I worry will certainly cause leaks.

Can anyone help me out here with trying to keep things as close to OEM "looking" as possible and on a budget that is about to run dry?
 
Thanks for the information WYODodge!:thankyou2:

I talked to Bill today and ordered my controller. :woohoo:

I have a 6.7 exhaust manifold so it should work as far as connecting to the exhaust manifold (no adapter).

My concern is the factory exhaust as well, I hope it all lines up ok along with the intake connections.

I'll keep you all posted and try and get pics of the install. :D

Dodge2003
 
I just finished puttin one on my 02. I used a manifold off of a 6.7 also and a downpipe off my early 07 with a 5.9.
 
Sweet! :rockwoot:

Got some pictures?

I have a 2003 and really want to know if there is any need for a different exhaust or intake hookups? Or will it just go in as my stock one if I use a 6.7 exhaust manifold?

Thanks.

Dodge2003
 
You will need a 4" down pipe for the vgt, my 03 had a 4" that tapered to 3.5 at the exhaust elbow.
 
Aagg-re-vation!

You will need a 4" down pipe for the vgt, my 03 had a 4" that tapered to 3.5 at the exhaust elbow.


:doh::doh::doh::doh::doh::doh:
:bang

I should have seen this coming........

If you can only imagine the mental anguish and disgust after taking the time to remove the OEM turbo/manifold; Install the new ones; Everything is lining up perfectly. Sweet, right? WRONG!!! Crawl back underneath the truck and there it is plain as daylight... The F****** downpipe flange is 1/2" - 3/4" too small.

SON-OFA-_________!!!!

Spent nearly an hour wrestling (literally) the downpipe off the truck to beat closing time at the local muffler shop. One day later, they can't do anything for me.

Scour Denver truck shops and find a flange that will press fit on, but it's too small to for the V-band clamp. $#^!


To shorten this up...... Need a 4" downpipe [ONLY] for a 6.7.

Anyone have one or know of someone willing to sell for under $100 or have a source for flanges to fit 6.7 exhaust elbows?
 
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any new updates, i am looking for parts to put one on the Fummins.
 
I have no responses to my plee for a 6.7 downpipe.
Since my last post, the new equipment has been sitting on my garage floor, taunting me to just buy a new pipe! Between a school for work, getting ready to move to IL, $1.6k in tires for 2 vehicles, my cash flow is exhausted! (Pun intentional)

So the plee for help remains... ANYONE out there with a factory 6.7 down pipe they to part ways with for cheap, PLEASE PM me!!!
 
The stock 6.7 downpipe has a CAT built into it unfortunately...probably a poor choice for performance. You should be able to use a 3rd gen aftermarket down pipe if your VGT turbo has the 6.7 exhaust elbow. When I tore the stock exhaust system off my 08 Ram I installed a system that fits the late model 5.9s...fit perfect...the nice thing is that there are lots of different options out on the market for those years.

Good luck with your project!
 
Any 04.5-10 downpipe will work.

Did Fleece fix the programming issue where you can't use cruise and the EB at the same time?
 
Did Fleece fix the programming issue where you can't use cruise and the EB at the same time?

There is no way around it, with the VP trucks on cruise the TPS is at "0" so if the EB is enabled, and TPS is at "0", its going to be on, which is counterproductive for cruise effieciency. I dont see a reason why it needs to be enabled if your cruise in on anyway, if you have to make an emergency stop, you still have to to your foot to the brake pedal... and if you have a manual and the Billet shifter mount, with the switch at your finger tips while your downshifting...

With the CRs its different because the swithch engages the brake rather than just enabling when "0" TPS is reached. In other words on a CR you can turn the EB on while cruising... if I guess you wanted too.

Hope that clears that up.

Caleb
 
There is no way around it, with the VP trucks on cruise the TPS is at "0" so if the EB is enabled, and TPS is at "0", its going to be on, which is counterproductive for cruise effieciency. I dont see a reason why it needs to be enabled if your cruise in on anyway, if you have to make an emergency stop, you still have to to your foot to the brake pedal... and if you have a manual and the Billet shifter mount, with the switch at your finger tips while your downshifting...

With the CRs its different because the swithch engages the brake rather than just enabling when "0" TPS is reached. In other words on a CR you can turn the EB on while cruising... if I guess you wanted too.

Hope that clears that up.

Caleb

I would guess you have never towed with an exhaust brake, or at least in a mountainous region. Setting the cruise and turning the EB on is the single best way to tow and maintain speed. My EB engages all the time on downhills and I don't have to worry about where the cruise is set, etc. You set the cruise and it stays at that speed, up or down hill.

Unless something has changed this year I called 3 different times and spoke to people at your office and was told that on my 2005 CR I could not have cruise engage and flip the EB on (like I can do now). I was calling to order the controller the first time, and after the 3rd time ensuring I wasn't misunderstanding I sold the turbo.

I asked why the Fleece controller didn't use the ECM signal for the EB function and was just told that there was no need to have the EB and CC on at the same time, yet talk to anyone who tow's with an EB on a 3rd gen and they will tell you different.
 
I talked to another guy this morning who was told that his 05 wouldn't allow EB and CC use at the same time, so which is it?
 
Time...

It's been nearly a year since I first put my hands on this project.
After all this time I have nickel and dimed my way through all the tedious little parts... Installed AND removed the intire setup TWICE after finding I didn't have something critical...

Moving to IL only put things more on hold...

The time is nearing to put this project behind me. After collecting every stinking little piece, hopefully the THIRD installation will be the charm.
I Now have to balance my time between work, school and home life.

Keep your fingers crossed! This must work!
 
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Dont feel bad WYO. I decided to do this swap last July, just finished it last month. I didnt move while trying to get my done though. I got married and bought a house lol. I did my swap on my 24v. I ran into the same problem though. Pulling the whole setup off just to measure something or tap a fitting. Didnt help I had to get my intercooler pipe made. Now just to get a PDI two piece manifold so I can stop seeing those EGR block off plates every time I open the hood.
 
woes...

Dont feel bad WYO. I decided to do this swap last July, just finished it last month. I didnt move while trying to get my done though. I got married and bought a house lol. I did my swap on my 24v. I ran into the same problem though. Pulling the whole setup off just to measure something or tap a fitting. Didnt help I had to get my intercooler pipe made. Now just to get a PDI two piece manifold so I can stop seeing those EGR block off plates every time I open the hood.

Well, if I did not have misfortune, I'd have no fortune at all.

About two-three months ago, I had to remove the dash to "fix" the infamous air director door problem. Thanks to my Dad, some precision drilling, roll pins and some JB Weld, we got that tackled. Had I only known that my heater core was leaking I would have changed it out then! :bang

I re-state my case about misfortune.

So of course this required removing the dash (again; # 3) and in the process I unknowingly pulled some wires out of the Fleece Controler harness plug.

Made the trip to Fleece's shop... met Caleb and crew; and they easily got my self induced problem repaired. Many thanks go to their electrical tech, (forgive me, I am bad with names) Chase Fleece for makeing sure my turbo was in proper time, and Braden Fleece for uploading their latest revision software to my controller.

So.... after all this, I have high hopes that I can have all this put to rest and this project closed this week. Re-installed the turbo/manifold (# 4 r&r) and harness yesterday. Just need to refill the radiator, zip-tie, connect the power lead, load the tuning and see what happens.

Keep your fingers crossed.
 
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