2nd gen dodge - dropping weight, where & what

Hurley

Hurley

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Apr 27, 2008
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For all you 2nd gen guys - where are the best/most common places to drop weight? My perspective is from a street driven truck; Here's what I can think of:


- Interior parts (headliner/carpet/speakers/seat swap)
- gasser radiator? Looks like the mounting holes are common across the models
- steering swap
- front suspension swap
- What about the front bumper? mounts?
- Inner fenders (I'm holding on to those until i can avoid driving it in the rain)
- rear mount battery (I'm running a single Group 31)
-
 
You can save a lot of weight running one of those carbon matrix batteries, they're reasonably priced at $100 to $130. Last heavy lead/acid truck battery I bought was like $90.

Did you already remove the ac system? The compressor has to weigh 50 lbs.
 
oh yeah, I've pulled the compressor/condenser/hardware forward of the firewall.


From the looks of the extra metal on the bumper, I'm pretty sure i can remove about 10# or more by hogging it out & replacing the factory mounts. (I remember racinduallie's posts from somewhere about this stuff)
 
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Hurley said:
For all you 2nd gen guys - where are the best/most common places to drop weight? My perspective is from a street driven truck; Here's what I can think of:


- Interior parts (headliner/carpet/speakers/seat swap)
- gasser radiator? Looks like the mounting holes are common across the models
- steering swap
- front suspension swap
- What about the front bumper? mounts?
- Inner fenders (I'm holding on to those until i can avoid driving it in the rain)
- rear mount battery (I'm running a single Group 31)
-
Click to expand...
why would you bother with the radiator is it going to be a significant enough amount of weight where your actually going to gain something? .. the inner fenders i dont see the point what if something comes up on the track (some drunk ppl have a tendency to throw things) or a tire shreds? And if you do decide to remove the back ones.. you just lost weight over the rear tires. Fiberglass front fenders, and hood would be pretty sweet with the front suspension and steering swap but they dont mix with the word cheap. As for the bumper idea. I really dont see how 10lbs is going to lower your times in the 1/4
 
Hurley said:
oh yeah, I've pulled the compressor/condenser/hardware forward of the firewall.


From the looks of the extra metal on the bumper, I'm pretty sure i can remove about 10# or more by hogging it out & replacing the factory mounts. (I remember racinduallie's posts from somewhere about this stuff)
Click to expand...

theres two side support brackets you can take off the front bumper, theres alot of little metal things you can take off that will add up......
 
^there we go

Bear in mind this thread was geared to 2nd gen dodges in general, not specifically my scenario-

- I've a 16 gallon fuel cell, so no issue there
- wheels weigh 32# each, im thinking im ~70# a corner with tires
- the smaller radiator would also allow for better intercooler end-tank options (just for consideration)
- Like I've said im keeping the inner fenders for debris/rain considerations
 
i would say dropping the bumper and hitch would be a good idea, but you have already done that from what it looks like, different mirrors, lighter and less drag compared to tow mirrors. I would even go as far a fiberglass front bumper cover as your front bumper. cut out bracing from under your hood. remove your hood latch and install locking pins
 
Here's basically what my rear-end looks like (I added a stock spare tire in the rear cavity after the pic was taken). I've a 40# hand fabricated fuel cell cover and a minimalistic exhaust.

2730920220_71045dce20.jpg


4541497457_c708e25908.jpg
 
Gut the interior and make your own dash. two aluminum racing seats. go with a mustang II rack and pinon front end, plexi glass rear window, get a new bed without the spray in bed liner,i know i just gutted alot of my wiring in the engine bay and i must have took off 10-15lbs of wiring. how does that truck not bend in half?
 
One thing I need to know if is you plan on street driving this thing after it's diet? If I went full strip on one a yugo would pose a threat to it's integrity.


Bumper: locate a 99+ sport, after trimming mine the whole thing weighs 30# max. And I didn't Swiss cheese the brackets.
Seats: they weigh 50-60# easy. EACH
Hood: easy 60+, it is the only thing I would recomend to replace with Fiberglass

Fenders: Dont waste time or money on glass. Cut the inner structure out leaving the outer skin. It has some bolt holes that will still attach it.

There is more but them it's more or less a tube chassis deal.
 
I think I lost over 100 lbs going from a stack in the bed to a hoodstack. Center console is about 50lbs or more.

I think you could fab a trans crossmember with alot less steel than the factory one in there. And make is easier to drop the transmission too...
 
how does that truck not bend in half?
Click to expand...

I've put oveer 7k miles of street driving on it with no issues.

2691706878_d31c0822b0_b.jpg


(3) 1/2" plates welded into the "C" of the frame, and the tubes passing through each.


It would be street driven after the diet, so integrity is definitely necessary. I know it's always an argument between dropping 50# or adding 50hp, but my approach is - "why not?" If I can drop some weight in different areas, I will.

And by street driven I mean drive it at least 80 miles each week.

EDIT: center console has been gone
 
fab up some kinda jeep half doors those are light are fawk, hell just run it like a jeep no doors, who needs those things anyways.....













































jk doors are important
 
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