2nd gen dodge - dropping weight, where & what

Why mount the shocks and your bottom links on the outside of the frame? You can gain assloads of room if you move everything inbound.
My project is a 1500 but from really rough measurements i can run 15" wide tires without tubs and still have around 2" of room on each side of the tires.
 
My original design intentions were to run the lowest rate coil spring and achieve the maximum amount of anti-roll without adding a rear sway bar - therefore placing the springs closer to the tires. Probably not the best approach, but it works for my uses.

Dont worry though, when the time comes I'll cut that **** off and redo as necessary.

As well, I can add at least 2" of backspacing to what I have now
 
Last edited:
^ Clarification to the above post, 10.5" wide tires which are currently flush with the backing plate on the brake assembly. There is 6" clear between coilover and tire (which is more than distance from tire to inside of wheel well ~4")

4769389937_2a7d2c2db9.jpg
 
Not knocking anything you done. If its working don't change it. DD and shaving weight usually don't work in the same sentence.
I can't say much as yours is driving, mine still has a gasser in it lol.
 
No problem with the conversation - I get odd comments good & bad, but it always helps to clarify.

I think my bottom line is moving the 60# battery and transmission cooler to the bed for better distribution over the rear.

I also just realized I've put closer to 13k miles on the back-half
 
Well, if you going to drive that much. Don't chop the fenders down to the skin. It removes all of your crash protection.

Glass hood
ditch that latch and springs
loose the fender braces near the cowl (you can cut that out too)
sport bumper
cheese the brackets
inner fenders aren't worth the time (30# total)
Seats/console
rear glass


That's about all I can think of that is simple. I've used aluminum on every little bracket for the puller just to give me few pounds that are movable.
 
Many pullers swear that you can loose 200#'s by gutting the dash.........
 
Maybe if this is your dash....
 

Attachments

  • Dash Immigrant.jpg
    Dash Immigrant.jpg
    22.6 KB · Views: 0
Does anyone have actual numbers between the weight difference of the fiberglass hood and the steel hood? I would think a CF hood would be your best bet..they are out there and there has been a few threads here about them.
 
Front sway bar & equipment! forgot about that one

for anyone that has ditched the front sway bar on a 2wd, did it drive like complete ass afterward ( i assume it would lean pretty bad)
 
If it is for track use only I know of a way of cutting about 60lbs easy!!! Change out that group 31 with a D375 (15lbs battery). Wouldn't be something you would want for every day driving, but for the track it is cheap weight loss.

Or if it is a track only truck go to 16V and run the lithium battery. That will cut you a total of around 71lbs.
 
This thing's a driver - gotta pimp that 'C' somehow!!! ha!

Also, depending on traction woes remounting the battery in the rear will give me some additional tractive force.
 
The other day I picked up 200 lbs of sand in the Junker Drag Truck and stacked it right against the tail gate. I thought for sure it would make a difference on the way home....... minor difference at best. I could still spin them freely 1,2, and 3rd. It was about 105* degrees outside and I was running aired down 285 all terrains but I thought for sure the sand would prevent spinning in 3rd gear.
 
400# in my bed puts me on the bump stops!

seriously though, it's worth shuffling weight if at all possible
 
Lose the 2 pc shaft and get a 1 pc AL shaft and that'll equal about the same as leaving the bed off the truck in performance
 
I'm trying to slim down my 2nd gen 4x4 ext. cab long bed pig. Here are some weights of random parts that have come off...

  • OEM Rear Bumper - 57.8 lbs
  • OEM Transfer Case Skid Plate - 14.8 lbs
  • Spare 265/75R16 AT & Steel Wheel - 75.2 lbs

That's a simple 147.8 lbs to lose in under 10 minutes. I'll add more weights as I carve off the excess.
 
I had forgotten how heavy the center seat on the 40/20/40 split bench is until i tried to move mine out of the way in the basement last night - my guesstimate is 40# (will verify later while im doing the drinky drinky)
 
I would get a cutoff wheel and go after all bolts that stick out past the nuts. I'd run a newer sport bumper and make my own minimal inner bumper to support it. I'd gut the inner fenders and build some aluminum ones. I'd also get rid of any wiring that I didn't need. Replace any glass that I could with Plexiglas. I would also go with a lift off fiberglass, cf or gutted stock hood, it would allow you to take off the hinges and latch. When we use to do our race cars we would put them on the scales and start gutting and cutting without a whole lot of messing around we could easily get 200lbs. Anything that you can get out of the front is a good thing. I'd even consider moving the engine back under the dash farther to help increase your rear percentage.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top