2wd drag setup

RolandCRam

RolandCRam

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Jun 28, 2012
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I was wondering what people are doin yo the front half suspension...i currently have 4link and coilover conversion in the rear was thinking of goin coilovers in the front also
 
I got qa1s coilover and shocks in the rear nd was planning on running the rancho 9point adjustables with the drop springs in front
 
And what power level? How long have you been practicing with your current power level and suspension setup? With a 4 link and good adjustable shocks on all 4 corners you have a good setup. Now it's time to hit the track and tune it. Video helps a PHUCK ton. A gopro camera under the truck is your best friend for tuning a 2wd suspension. You want an easy compresion and slow rebound in the rear and the opposite up front
 
right now with cal tracks and only 2 leafs in the rear and stock v8 gas springs in the front of the half ton and just ordered 90/10's for the front. we will see if i can get it to better the 1.99 sixty foot time.
 
It hasnt been ran at the truck yet but in finishing up the rear suspension...thought might as well trow it out there to work on the front and see what others are running...just waiting on the ranchos now should be in monday/tuesday
 
Dont put "drop" springs in the front. You want springs that help lift when you launch.
 
Look into Moroso Trick Springs. I don't know if they have a direct fit, but I'm sure they have something that will fit well enough and possibly give the drop you are looking for.
 
SHughes said:
Look into Moroso Trick Springs. I don't know if they have a direct fit, but I'm sure they have something that will fit well enough and possibly give the drop you are looking for.
Click to expand...

Moroso springs are for drag racing only...im goin to be ocaccionalt driving this truck around town
 
They are fine for around town too. I ran them in my Chevelle when is was dueal purpose...makes street light action really, really fun!!!
 
I hit 1.86 60ft times on drag radials so far. NO traction bars or Cal Tracs.....Yet...
 
You want front springs that have a very low rate, but a longer free length to help hold up the same weight (basically what the Moroso springs are doing).
 
ordered 90/10's and adjustable rear shocks today from calvert racing.. we will see how that works on weds hopefully.
 
The stock Dodge upper control arms bottom out on droop on the upper spring bucket well before the spring tension is released. In other words, going to a lighter rate spring will allow the front to sag more but it will not allow it to raise any more than stock springs before the tires leave the ground. Therefore, a stock spring rate technically provides equal lift force during launch.

If you go too low on the front, it will hurt traction more than the benefit of having the front end rise 6" vs the factory 4.25" or so.


I guess what I'm saying is spend a couple hours in the wheel wheels with a jack and lift the front end to simulate a hard launch and see what actually binds up first before you buy parts.



Now, if you modify the upper control arms, go aftermarket, etc to allow for more droop, then the lighter spring rate race springs and/or 1/2 ton springs will help.

Also, the stock shocks will bottom out in extension when at full droop so if you customize the control arms, be sure to add shackles to raise the lower mount point or go with a longer shock.
 
yes thank you Wil, im shooting for a consistant truck with to much power but i think we all are in the same boat.. I just am shooting for a consistant 11.90 truck to play with.. im told shocks of which i believe after know what it has is going to help a lot..
i talked with calvert for a bit today and he was saying about how if the back can go up faster than the front then your shooting your self in the foot because its not only only lifting to the point it unloads the back but the front is not keeping up so it further takes load off the back as it lifts.. 90/10s coming for the front to lift and keep it up and dual adjustable for the back to slow the lift in the back so it doesnt outrun the back and has some weight transfer..
dam 2wd's are alot harder than the 4wd's i just clicked into 4wd and pulled 1.6 sixtys on 35" m/t's off the steet lol
 
Big Blue24 said:
The stock Dodge upper control arms bottom out on droop on the upper spring bucket well before the spring tension is released. In other words, going to a lighter rate spring will allow the front to sag more but it will not allow it to raise any more than stock springs before the tires leave the ground. Therefore, a stock spring rate technically provides equal lift force during launch.

...

Also, the stock shocks will bottom out in extension when at full droop so if you customize the control arms, be sure to add shackles to raise the lower mount point or go with a longer shock.
Click to expand...


Do you know if the ball joints were binding after your modifications?
 
The upper ball joint was hitting the bump stop after making minor mods to the control arms to gain about 1.5" more droop. I then chopped the bump stops and part of the framework that supports it so it wouldn't interfere with the upper control arm. That allowed another .75" to 1" of droop.

The next step for me is to completely modify the control arms and make the upper slightly longer and tubular so it clears the spring bucket all together.
 
to clarify, was there any issue with the ball joints nearing their flexibility limits?
 
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