500+ hp on a budget....ideas?

swerve0311

swerve0311

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Mar 13, 2015
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Hey guys. I'm pretty new to all this so any help would be welcomed. I'd like to see a respectable amount of HP out of my 99 and am trying to stay realistic about it. I figure I could get 500HP and keep it reliable for relatively cheap. When I say cheap I mean I have about $3500 to $4000 to throw at it. I think I have a pretty solid start and now I am toying with the idea of injectors and a combo setup. Is it realistic to think that I could achieve my goal on that budget? If so any ideas how to get there and what to get would be great! I figure I should probably start with head studs. Maybe O ring it? After that, injectors and a turbo upgrade? Possibly stack a smarty on my edge? What do you guys think? I heard that I could use my stock turbo in a compound setup. Any thoughts on that?

Bottom line is it is my DD and don't want to **** it up!
 
63mm charger
6x13s
studs

I relaize 6x13s might seem like a bit much injector but my VP trucks always loved a little more injector than my 12 valves.
 
If on a budget and can't afford to break it, then don't mess with it. Just drive it.
 
zfaylor said:
63mm charger
6x13s
studs

I relaize 6x13s might seem like a bit much injector but my VP trucks always loved a little more injector than my 12 valves.
Click to expand...

You can pick up some 5x12's that will hit 500rwhp for really cheap, or some 5x14's that will go a ways past that for still less than most 6x13's.

And for 500rwhp, a lot of guys have luck with just torquing stock head bolts to 135ftlbs. Not the way I'd recommend doing it, but It's been done and done pretty reliably.


Here's what I would do.
Don't cheap out on the fuel system (grab a FASS100 or 150).
If you do studs, grab some A1 H11's (better than ARP 425 at the same price, and significantly less than ARP 625).
5x12 injectors
Grab a box stock T4 BW s363 (or grab a s467 or s475 if you want to do a compound setup, s475's can be had for cheap).
Grab a T4 exhaust manifold (stainless and steed speed are expensive and not worth the money at 500rwhp).
Do your standard intake and turbo back exhaust.
And then a tuner of your choice.

If you're got a 47re, you'll want to at very least upgrade the governor solenoid to a BW one, and possibly toss a transgo kit on the valve body. It won't last at 500rwhp forever, but if you don't boost launch, it wont be bad. You'll want to grab a billet input shaft, and a triple disc torque converter and you'd be pretty reliable at 500rwhp. After that, stack clutched, after that, an assortment of fun and expensive billet parts and a valve body built by a professional (Goerend and Firepunk are very popular and seem to work great. I have a RedLine and am happy with it as well).

I'm sure I'm missing a good deal of small stuff, but that'll get you on the right track.


Kick Start said:
If on a budget and can't afford to break it, then don't mess with it. Just drive it.
Click to expand...

X2. Buy yourself a backup vehicle with $3500 so you can afford to down the truck!
 
CorneliusRox said:
You can pick up some 5x12's that will hit 500rwhp for really cheap, or some 5x14's that will go a ways past that for still less than most 6x13's.

And for 500rwhp, a lot of guys have luck with just torquing stock head bolts to 135ftlbs. Not the way I'd recommend doing it, but It's been done and done pretty reliably.


Here's what I would do.
Don't cheap out on the fuel system (grab a FASS100 or 150).
If you do studs, grab some A1 H11's (better than ARP 425 at the same price, and significantly less than ARP 625).
5x12 injectors
Grab a box stock T4 BW s363 (or grab a s467 or s475 if you want to do a compound setup, s475's can be had for cheap).
Grab a T4 exhaust manifold (stainless and steed speed are expensive and not worth the money at 500rwhp).
Do your standard intake and turbo back exhaust.
And then a tuner of your choice.

If you're got a 47re, you'll want to at very least upgrade the governor solenoid to a BW one, and possibly toss a transgo kit on the valve body. It won't last at 500rwhp forever, but if you don't boost launch, it wont be bad. You'll want to grab a billet input shaft, and a triple disc torque converter and you'd be pretty reliable at 500rwhp. After that, stack clutched, after that, an assortment of fun and expensive billet parts and a valve body built by a professional (Goerend and Firepunk are very popular and seem to work great. I have a RedLine and am happy with it as well).

I'm sure I'm missing a good deal of small stuff, but that'll get you on the right track.




X2. Buy yourself a backup vehicle with $3500 so you can afford to down the truck!
Click to expand...

He has most of the small stuff bud

If it is the truck in his sig he already has a FASS and appears to be a decent transmission if it is a triple disc (whatever stage 3 disc is?)

He has an edge.

Last I heard from Haisley A1 studs no longer truly exist and are made by ARP now.

Do they make 5 hole injectors for 24 valves?
 
zfaylor said:
He has most of the small stuff bud

If it is the truck in his sig he already has a FASS and appears to be a decent transmission if it is a triple disc (whatever stage 3 disc is?)

He has an edge.
Click to expand...

Ah, I missed that bit.

zfaylor said:
Last I heard from Haisley A1 studs no longer truly exist and are made by ARP now.
Click to expand...

Really? I'm pretty bummed about that...

zfaylor said:
Do they make 5 hole injectors for 24 valves?
Click to expand...

I could be wrong about this. I know my 12V stuff much better. I thought the injectors were about the same (for VP) but with different taper, pop pressure, and spray angle, and would fall into the same price ranges because of that.
Sorry for the wrong info in that case!
 
Head studs for sure! Decide on the turbo set-up before getting injectors.

I like the good old fashion idea of an HX35 and HT3B. They are reliable even with the extra moving parts and should keep EGT's cooler over a single.

I also see no need to go to a T4 foot on the turbo or overboard on the exhaust manifold.

When I had an Edge Juice and Smarty, I found my favorite Smarty tune with the Edge on 3x3, then used the Edge for quick tuning to play around. I also lost power by maxing both out.
 
Kick Start said:
That was a serious comment.
Click to expand...

Look dude...I don't want to get into a pissin match with ya. I'm looking for some help and guidance while I build my truck. As I said I'm pretty new to this but I'm hooked. No chance in hell I could stop upgrading now. I am just trying to do it right. I can afford to play with my truck a bit and I just want my money to be well spent. I do have a back up vehicle but it's a 97 lumina.....lol. not very much fun. But I can drive it while my truck is down.

All that being said....you guys are much more involved and have a lot of information. So I really do appreciate your input and take it seriously. Just would hope the same amount of respect be given. (Even to a rookie like me) Hopefully no hard feelings kickstart.
 
By your signature it looks like all you'd need are some injectors, turbo and studs. Do the damn studs and be done with it.
 
SHughes said:
Head studs for sure! Decide on the turbo set-up before getting injectors.

I like the good old fashion idea of an HX35 and HT3B. They are reliable even with the extra moving parts and should keep EGT's cooler over a single.

I also see no need to go to a T4 foot on the turbo or overboard on the exhaust manifold.

When I had an Edge Juice and Smarty, I found my favorite Smarty tune with the Edge on 3x3, then used the Edge for quick tuning to play around. I also lost power by maxing both out.
Click to expand...

Thanks dude! So when you say no need to go over board on exhaust manifold, do you mean stick with stock? I thought I should go with a 3 piece. Also could you explain the difference between a t3 foot and t4 foot? (Again new guy here)
 
DDually said:
By your signature it looks like all you'd need are some injectors, turbo and studs. Do the damn studs and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Yassir! Definitely going to "do the studs" what about O rings? Any thoughts on that?
 
swerve0311 said:
Yassir! Definitely going to "do the studs" what about O rings? Any thoughts on that?
Click to expand...

If there was a reason already to pull the head then definitely.

If you have no need to pull the head the o rings are not necessary for a 500ish hp truck with studs.
 
T3 and T4 foot's (feet?) are just the size of the exhaust manifold outlet and turbo inlet. T3 is stock on your truck, and T4 is a bit bigger and what a lot of guys switch to when wanting to flow better. You lose some velocity (low end spool), and gain some flow (top end power).

Agreed on no orings unless you're pulling the head anyways.
 
CorneliusRox said:
T3 and T4 foot's (feet?) are just the size of the exhaust manifold outlet and turbo inlet. T3 is stock on your truck, and T4 is a bit bigger and what a lot of guys switch to when wanting to flow better. You lose some velocity (low end spool), and gain some flow (top end power).

Agreed on no orings unless you're pulling the head anyways.
Click to expand...

Thanks CorneliusRox for the explanation. Sounds like I can do the studs one at a time while the head is attached. I'll read up on that process.

Thanks for the help guys! I'm going to do my research on an hx35 and ht3b setup. I'll check out the vendor section here. Anybody in particular I should talk to that would be interested in some business?
 
Infinite performance for injectors and i bet mumau diesel could find you a turbo...pretty sure there is one in the classifieds as well.
 
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