8.3L Cummins Transplant
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Bodacious
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The shift tower from the 5-speed bolts right on top of the 6-speed; however, it don't shift very well and won't hit a few gears. I think the tab at the end will need to be machined down to the same width as the tab on the remote box that came off the 6-speed.
It's only about .117" difference but I think the width is keeping it from hitting a full set of gears (one up and one back with lever). I guess you call those "gates?" I think this 6 is going to be like the 6 in my old dodge...close together. I'm gonna love it.
Yall agree this is the problem? I should have took pics to compare the shift controls inside each case. It is a clear the difference.
4.5" Grinder?????
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Any big truck salvage yards in your area?
4x4dually
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Yes. In that pic above, the rad mount is touching the balancer. It has to move forward at least enough to get a belt on so it might as well move enough for a fan. I'm going to have a piece of 5/16 plate folded to match the frame and plate another 12" on each side. Then I'll move things where they need to go and dock the extra. I probably won't dock much of that 12".
Things I have coming from Aaron. Alternator, front horseshoe mount, and an idler.
Things I need: Fan and mounting bracketry that goes with it.
JL Builders
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Yes. In that pic above, the rad mount is touching the balancer. It has to move forward at least enough to get a belt on so it might as well move enough for a fan. I'm going to have a piece of 5/16 plate folded to match the frame and plate another 12" on each side. Then I'll move things where they need to go and dock the extra. I probably won't dock much of that 12".
Things I have coming from Aaron. Alternator, front horseshoe mount, and an idler.
Things I need: Fan and mounting bracketry that goes with it.
I think I have an extra fan clutch in the shop. If you need it let me know. Came of a 8.3 I had a while ago.
4x4dually
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The local vo-tech autobody instructor worked in my dad's body shop for years. I think I might see if one of his kids needs a fiberglass project and see if they can extend the hood to match. The fenders must stay put though so that add a bit of difficulty.
Cool. I need the entire setup, but if I come up short that piece I'll let you know.
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Stretching the frame and hood sounds like a lot more work than setting the engine back. Rear mount frame brackets bolt on and frame may be prepunched. I'm thinking GMC 7000, early Top Kick and Brigader all use the same cab, Brigader and TK have a removable fiberglass tunnel for longer engines, cut a new hole for shifter boot then heat and bend shifter to work.
My 94 F-800 came factory with 8.3 and short hood, the engine sets back under the cab but it also has a removable tunnel to gain access to back of the engine.
Take a look at the 8.2's fan to see if it might work on a Cummins hub.
My 94 F-800 came factory with 8.3 and short hood, the engine sets back under the cab but it also has a removable tunnel to gain access to back of the engine.
Take a look at the 8.2's fan to see if it might work on a Cummins hub.
jfaulkner
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Anyone that's ever worked on one would burn you alive for even suggesting that. Working on an engine from inside the truck is such a horrible idea. Did a headgasket on a VNL Volvo with an ISX. Love the oil spray you get when you take headbolts loose INSIDE the truck.
I get what your saying but NO! If I can't open the hood and see all 6yl you can take that POS somewhere else.:hehe:
4x4dually
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I agree. I want to be able to pull the valve cover without an access hole or taking lifters out through holes in the cowl like my old '02 dodge. That was just stupid.
How out of balance would the driveline be if I cut it myself, sleeved it with interference fit tube and heat and welded it making sure the yokes were marked and lined up? Bad idea? I need to call to price the shortening.
How out of balance would the driveline be if I cut it myself, sleeved it with interference fit tube and heat and welded it making sure the yokes were marked and lined up? Bad idea? I need to call to price the shortening.
zfaylor
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Vibrations can wreck things in a hurry but a lot of hot rodders do it with great success. Some even do a hillbilly balance job with hose clamps. They put a clamp on just loose enough it can move and drive it and tighten the clamp after a drive. I would spend the money to have it shortened but I understand how projects start adding up in a hurry. If the shaft isn't rusty as heck and only needs shortened I would expect the job to be in the $2-300 range. When you need different yokes or a new tube is where it starts getting expensive.
97rada
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Just curious why you pulled the dog house to do a gasket? It's not needed. I do agree with not putting it under the cowl though not fun at all
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Yes they can be a pain to work on, I've worked on several but I thought he was putting a fresh engine in a truck that would see little use so it shouldn't need worked on for many years.
I was just making a suggestion on what I though would be the easiest, quickest and cheapest way to get the truck going.
The only truck I ever worked on that I had full access to all 6 cylinders was an ext hood Peterbilt. No offense but if someone gave me a Volvo with an ISX in it, I'd pull the ISX and find something else to put it in.
zfaylor
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What the heck do they teach at vocational schools anymore? I have a high school kid who comes in everyday after school and he is in the auto tech program. The teachers didn't know how to time a 350 small block.... I had to explain to him what tdc was and how to put the distributor on #1. They spent two weeks trying to figure out how to make it run.
