8.3L Cummins Transplant

That's a cool looking wagon!
My first car was a 64 Fairlane 500, 289 with Crane Fireball cam, 600 Holley, 3 in the floor with a Mustang shifter surrounded by a wood console and F85 Olds bucket seats.
The latest one I've had for a while but never got around to installing the drive train I had for it. FE 406 with 3 holley 2 bbls, currently has a 302
That's it's original paint but it was needing a repaint
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Guess I need to update my sig, sold the car to a nephew a couple weeks ago.
Didn't have time to finish it and tired of seeing it set.
 
Thanks malibu795, wasn't sure about a 8.3
My 5.9's compressor has a external drain out the bottom, originally drained back into the side of the block near the engine mount bolt holes, Had to move the drain to the oil pan to use the 3rd gen mounts in the conversion.

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Engine came out of a shuttle bus with a air cooled compressor.

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Guess I need to update my sig, sold the car to a nephew a couple weeks ago. Didn't have time to finish it and tired of seeing it set.

Man, I’d loved to have had a chance at that one. Nice car. A neighbor had a white 2-door with red interior, my wagon interior was blue, that I tried to buy several times. He didn’t even want to talk about selling it. 30 years later it’s still sitting behind his house but now it’s in pretty rough shape.
 
I just got a G-BODY wagon, not quite as cool as the 50/60s version.. but first car I bought
 

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Don't see many of those G Wagons anymore.

BigPapa, just seen your location, The wife and I got our marriage license there.
Drove down to Springfield to get a Tn license so that we could get married the Gatlinburg during a holiday.
Drove to Tupelo, Ms today to pick up some tractor parts, man I swear Nashville roads have been under construction of the past 30 years, can't got thru that town without lane closures and traffic jam delays.
Came home a different way that didn't go thru Nashville.
 
Every now and than I'll spot a B-body wagon.. there's a red Caprice wagon for sale in my home town
 
man I swear Nashville roads have been under construction of the past 30 years, can't got thru that town without lane closures and traffic jam delays.
Came home a different way that didn't go thru Nashville.

Don’t I know it. I drive to south Nashville to work everyday. This weekend they have I-24 on the east bank shutdown repairing two bridges. If only homers drove on the weekends it wouldn’t be a big deal, just take the north loop, but to folks like yourself that don’t know that, it creates serious problems. Hate it for everybody.

For future reference, typically you can easily go around Nashville using Bailey Parkway, TN-155, which is basically an unbroken interstate type highway that runs from I-40 on the west side all the way around the north and east side to I-24 on the southeast side and I-440 that runs from I-40 on the west side all the way around the south side to I-24 on the southeast side. I attempted to draw a blue line where this is on the map below. There’s also I-840 further out from town that runs south of town from I-40 on the west to I-40 on the east. Right now they are also doing a MAJOR redo on I-440 so I wouldn’t recommend it at this time.

This website is great for traffic in TN. I check it everyday before going anywhere around Nashville: TDOT Smartway


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Me too but I'll add one more thing.
I knew about the Briley Parkway, use to take it to Centennial Blvd to a place I delivered at during my trucking days.
Had a couple of nephews with me that had never been thru Nashville so figured I'd show them, we had already passed the Briley exit before traffic came to a stop.
I should have known better. :banghead:
 
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Wow, I REALLY hijacked Jory’s thread.

Sorry, Jory...

Schidt..like I can talk about hyjackin' threads. LOL All good man.

In other news....wanted the bed off so welded up an A-Frame yesterday to lift the front. Lifted the back with the tractor and drove out from under it. Three of four pins came out. Had to torch one pin out. Ready to do some burnouts.

Got one broke leaf spring in the rear end, rear cab mounts need replaced, it will help with running exhaust, and all the lift pins need pulled, cleaned, and greased. Lot of maintenance needs to happen and I'm not a fan of working under a lifted bed even with the safety bar in place. One bad second and your dead. And it will make it lighter for me to haul back to OKC to get them to fix the PTO pump they didn't fix the first time.

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Well, last night was more of a mechanical overhaul night for the bed lift system. I pulled all the pins and cleaned them and ran a honing tool on a drill through all the tubes and mounts. I need to replace a few grease zerks but overall the lift is ready to go. I have never seen press-in zerks before but the bad ones I pulled were like that. Stupid if you ask me.
 
So, when I connect the small post on the alternator to the "acc" wire on the firewall so that the alternator will turn on to charge when the engine is running....which is the same post as the hold coil on the fuel shutoff solenoid is tied....the small alternator wire holds the coil in when I turn the truck off.

I should have wire diagrams delivered today that I ordered...but...has anyone ran into that? Am I missing a diode or something? Anyone know right off before I try to put time into research?
 
So you're saying the exciter wire is still hot when the power to it is cut? 100% sure you have the right wire?
 
Well, last night was more of a mechanical overhaul night for the bed lift system. I pulled all the pins and cleaned them and ran a honing tool on a drill through all the tubes and mounts. I need to replace a few grease zerks but overall the lift is ready to go. I have never seen press-in zerks before but the bad ones I pulled were like that. Stupid if you ask me.

I hate those drive in metric grease fittings, have one on my Rhino bat wings CV joint thats worn, most times a new one fits lose after removing the old one, the hole is bigger than a US 1/4-28 fitting.
Who ever invented those fittings should have a bucket full of them stuffed somewhere in his person.
 
So you're saying the exciter wire is still hot when the power to it is cut? 100% sure you have the right wire?

I think I need a diode (or some use a resistor or a bulb) inline with the exciter wire. It is feeding back when I turn the key off and holding the fuel shutoff coil. The alternator (not telling where it came from, either the one that came on the motor or one I got from Chris Mayer) is a two wire setup. A big hot and an exciter only.
 
This tag on the axle is proving to not be much help. At least I haven't figured it out yet. The RoadRanger manual I found doesn't list that number.

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Or is that just a housing tag? I haven't found any other tags on it yet.
 

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is there one on the carrier itself?

Found these... Should help you know what to look for... If it's still attached
 

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