92-97 Ford/12 Valve swap Questions

I completely rebuilt the engine before I even set it in the truck. I am not going to do anything with the pump and injectors until I get it running, simply for the fact that I know the engine was running before I took it out of the donor. This way I am not throwing any mods into the mix when trying to get it running again. The freeze plugs were all replaced when the head and block were redone.
 
Mo Smoke said:
I used the AutoWorld Quad mounts and they fit good, but now I know that I can change the offset of the mounts to move the driveline forward or backward (mine was moved 2" rearward) and I still have 2+" between the fan and rad..
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just noticed they are selling these quad mounts. whats the history on them, are people breaking the others? i am chaining the motor down for this years season because i am worried about breaking them.
 
DrSpeed and 94ttss are also using these on their CR conversions and are running well above 500HP and no problems yet. In April I will also be on Dunbar's Dyno and hopefully be at or above 600hp.

Tim
 
joeservo said:
i did drill new holes in mine, but in the next one i am doing now i will try with the exiting ones.

i will get pictures of how much room i have up front. it is WAY more than the pics above.
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You probabaly have more room up front because you put your engine farther back than I did, and you also cut your firewall if I remember right. I knew I wasn't going to be using a manual fan so I brought it forward a little. I have installed these in these engine bays with the firewall uncut and with a stock dodge manual fan. Granted I did have to massage the lower lip of the firewall but I tried to leave it a drop in deal. I will prolly cut the firewall on mine this year to ease working on it though.
 
i did put pretty far back, but the front clip was not on at the time and the guys at fordcummins had me worried. if i did it again, i would just bang up the cowl, not cut it. i can remove cyl6 valve cover without removing cyl5.

manual fans take up too much room. so much nicer timing the pump without one.
 
That is my biggest draw back is that I can not remove my head with the engine in the truck. I have to move it forward. If I would have cut the upper part of the frirewall and recessed it, it would be great.
 
I put a 12V in my 97 F250 using Destroked parts, their kit uses the 1st gen Dodge mounts as well. My engine definately sits forward, (I have no prob removing #6 valve cover) but I plan on running an electric fan, I don't have a fan on there all all currently. One problem I am having is the topside of the oil pan rail on the block is rattling against the factory PSD engine mount plate. Anyone else run into this?
 
That is one of the reasons I couldn't go back any further with the offset in the isolators. I had to use the offset to get enough clearance for the oil pan.-Nicholas
 
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