95' Junker Drag Truck

On average how much torque can you get on the SHCS's before they just stretch?

When I used my old man's tech angle the 89ft-lbs + 90 degrees came up with between 148 -152 ft-lbs to reach the desired torque angle. Whenever that isn't available I have been taking them down to a straight 150ft-lbs while watching how far they turn from 89. They don't feel squishy at all there, but I'm not really willing to push them much further. I have had customers try to install them on their own without using proper lube and they like to twist off around 130ft-lbs.
 
When I used my old man's tech angle the 89ft-lbs + 90 degrees came up with between 148 -152 ft-lbs to reach the desired torque angle. Whenever that isn't available I have been taking them down to a straight 150ft-lbs while watching how far they turn from 89. They don't feel squishy at all there, but I'm not really willing to push them much further. I have had customers try to install them on their own without using proper lube and they like to twist off around 130ft-lbs.

Were your bolts dry???

On the new snappy, 90ft-lbs + 90* nets 125-130ft-lbs.
 
on the topic of head studs/bolts I just blew my fire ring gasket with the arp 2000's. I am not sure if the studs failed or if my other issues caused it, but I just installed a set of extreme studs. They seem pretty stout, the stud diameter is 13mm where the arp2000 have a diameter of 11.3mm. They claim they are as good or better than the arp625's. I don't know about that I just hope they are better than the 2000's, they are half the price of the 625 and are readily available. torque spec is 140 ft/lbs and they torqued up nice, very solid.
 
Were your bolts dry???

On the new snappy, 90ft-lbs + 90* nets 125-130ft-lbs.

Nope, they were lubed with ARP Ultra Torque under the head, both sides of the washer, and on the threads. Threads in the block were clean and dry. I took mine to 135ft-lbs on the first go around figuring the whole stock torque of ~125ft-lbs and pushed coolant a couple months later. Replaced the gasket with a .020 over and did a stock torque to see what it actually was. The short bolts all came up within half a pound of 152, the rocker bolts came up pretty consistently at 148, and the intermediates all came within a few tenths of 150 on the nose. So like I said, in absence of the tech angle I've just been taking them straight to 150 from 89 with my old style clicker while being mindful of how far they turn.

I don't know what brand SHCS's you're using, maybe the Hollow Krome ones I get are a little stiffer?

So no better then a stock bolt, or ARP2000 studs.

IIRC ARPs are rated at 190k tensile strength, the ones I get are 170k, and I believe someone here rated the stock ones on a strain gauge at work between 130-140k... So they're cheaper then both, (supposedly) stronger than stock, yet a touch less then entry level studs. I honestly won't bother with stock bolts or ARP 2000s with the track record I've had with my personal truck as well as several customers'. Serious builds will skip right to 625s or H1s though :Cheer:
 
...They claim they are as good or better than the arp625's. I don't know about that I just hope they are better than the 2000's, they are half the price of the 625 and are readily available. torque spec is 140 ft/lbs and they torqued up nice, very solid.

Torque spec on the 625's is 160ft/lbs, I have a set of 14mm 625's and the torque spec is 190ft/lbs (they are a huge B!tch to do the final torque on).
 
Torque spec on the 625's is 160ft/lbs, I have a set of 14mm 625's and the torque spec is 190ft/lbs (they are a huge @#!*% to do the final torque on).

How much are 625 14mm studs. The extreme studs 14mm call for 185 ft/lbs.
I am sure torquing either of those is quite a workout. Especially if doing the job while the engine is in the truck.
 
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do you have to do anything to the headgasket when you do this? or just run it as is?
 
Might be a dumb question, but how do you get the o-rings to seat in a grooved head? Stick them in with a dab of grease?
 
A brass hammer I use a brass drift and just tap them in. You don't want to cause deformitys in the wire.
 
If I understand what you're talking about, you press in and pound with a hammer.

Ok say I have a 030 groove and a 041 wire giving me 011 portrusion wouldn't the above cause my wire dia to be smaller and not have the desired effect on the gasket? I am new to the o-ring game so I don't quite fully understand.


Sent from the BooBoo Bus
 
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