95' Junker Drag Truck

This might be the next air upgrade for the Junker Drag Truck:
HT80 Turbo, 89 x 138.3mm compressor 127.8 x 105mm turbine wheel.

HT801_zpsaf604536.jpg


Here it is next to the current HT4B atmosphere turbo in the compound setup.

HT802_zps9cb72779.jpg


HT803_zps1156486d.jpg


Odd exhaust flange, it's huge so it'll need to be partially blocked with an angled diverter plate.
HT804_zpsbf06a18e.jpg


6" outlet is larger than the standard 5" utilized on the HT4B

HT805_zpsc32133fe.jpg


HT806_zps0582b02b.jpg


HT807_zps50fadcfb.jpg


HT808_zps67b3186d.jpg


It might make more sense to investigate the possibility of a hybrid turbo between the two to utilize the existing hot-side of the HT4B and upgrade to the larger 89mm compressor of the HT80.
 
Can you sum up the setup you have and have had as far as air and fuel?

your quickest time is 11.5? what setup was that?
what the plan for next season?
 
LuckyLegs said:
Can you sum up the setup you have and have had as far as air and fuel?

your quickest time is 11.5? what setup was that?
what the plan for next season?
Click to expand...

The quickest 1/4 mile to date is 11.507, the very next pass was well on it's way to 11.30's but it lost a boot and charge pipe 900' out, it was 2 tenths quicker to the 1/8th mile @ 7.30ET on that pass but unfortunately didn't hold together.

The latest fueling and air setup:
Factory 160 pump, 5.5k GSK, Rack Plug, Modded AFC, Maxed Barrels, Dual Fed 90-100 psi, 26* timing, DDP 042 delivery valves, 5x.018" VCO 145* dual fed, edge filters removed, custom needle work injectors.

He351cw 60mm over HT4B 82.3mm pushing 80-85 psi boost in top gear.


The plan for this upcoming season is more fuel, possibly more air, a roll cage, a ported head with a new gasket and oringed block to keep it sealed.

I'd like to try water/meth injection at the large turbo inducer and between stages but I need to find a sponsor, or a cheap used system, or possibly an inverter and a 120 volt pressure washer custom setup.
 
Last edited:
Big Blue24 said:
The quickest 1/4 mile to date is 11.507, the very next pass was well on it's way to 11.30's but it lost a boot and charge pipe 900' out, it was 2 tenths quicker to the 1/8th mile @ 7.30ET on that pass but unfortunately didn't hold together.

The latest fueling and air setup:
Factory 160 pump, 5.5k GSK, Rack Plug, Modded AFC, Maxed Barrels, Dual Fed 90-100 psi, 26* timing, DDP 042 delivery valves, 5x.018" VCO 145* dual fed, edge filters removed, custom needle work injectors.

He351cw 60mm over HT4B 82.3mm pushing 80-85 psi boost in top gear.


The plan for this upcoming season is more fuel, possibly more air, a roll cage, a ported head with a new gasket and oringed block to keep it sealed.

I'd like to try water/meth injection at the large turbo inducer and between stages but I need to find a sponsor, or a cheap used system, or possibly an inverter and a 120 volt pressure washer custom setup.
Click to expand...

Going with your previous achievements, I see 10's by mid season. Good luck man. Keep us updated!


Sent from the BooBoo Bus
 
Seems to me that the HT4B and the HT80 are cousins much like the HT3B and the HT60 are... If it weren't for the MWE ring being so thin already, I'd say simple machine work would let you drop it in. On the bright side, since you would need a custom MWE ring manchined and pinned in, you can have one made with a nice bell to make your own race cover :Cheer:
 
It seemed like one of your biggest issues was hooking up off the line, any plans for bigger slicks or ???
 
I finished o-ringing the block with the Isky Groov-Matic.

I used regular blue painter's tape to protect the block openings from machining debris.
Oring3.jpg


It's a tight fit back by cylinder #6 and I had to remove the Isky handles and install 4-1/2" bolts with electrical tape handles.

Oring4.jpg


Here's the bolt size for future reference if anyone else tries to oring the block in-frame: 4-1/2" x 3/8"-16 thread
Oring5.jpg


This is the .041" stainless wire that I used for the actual o-rings.
Oring6.jpg


I left the wire a little long at first. Per Isky's instructions, you should cut the starting end of the wire with sharp wire cutters then file the end square and flat with a file, this only take a few seconds but should provide a better seal at the butt joint.

Oring7.jpg


Oring8.jpg


Oring9.jpg


The finished product is a good tight butt joint. Per the instructions, you should use a soft brass or plastic hammer to install the o-rings. I used the butt end of good screw driver and it worked well to force the o-ring into the cut groove.

Oring10.jpg


Here's a side by side shot of an open Isky-machined groove and a stainless wire filled groove with .008" protrusion. This is on the low end of the spectrum of wire protrusion but should work well with the over-torqued stock head bolt setup.

Oring11.jpg


It took roughly 3 hours to cut the groove and clean the debris from all (6) cylinders. If you were in a hurry, you could probably do the whole job in 1 hour if you were familiar with the tool and aggressively cut the grooves.

Oring12.jpg
 
Drothgeb said:
It seemed like one of your biggest issues was hooking up off the line, any plans for bigger slicks or ???
Click to expand...


I have been looking for larger slicks, however, I didn't get very many passes on these Mickey Thompson Drag ET Slicks before the headgasket and charge piping boot let loose.

On my last pass, I left at as high of boost as the brakes could hold and it spun a little but did still cut a 1.735 second 60' time. I think with good track prep and optimized tire pressure and traction bar pre-load, these slicks will get deep into the 1.6 range consistently.

It would definitely be nice to run a 31, 32, or 33" tall slick to help with the topend gearing but for now, the 29.5 x 11.5" ET Drag Slicks are doing much better than the 27"x10" Nascar-style slicks.

Here's that last time slip, it was all over the 11.30's on that last pass but it didn't hold together past 900'.

Timeslip542.jpg
 
sweet!
You need to quit doing things like this, then everyone will think they can do it and screw some stuff up!
 
Yep, that would have been a nice run. I was just comparing it to some of my slips, you would have been low 11.3s, possibly even high 11.2s. And like you said, 32" or 33" slicks would probably help you on both ends.

I know how you feel about silicone boots too. I had some good runs going until "WHOOOOSH!!!". I switched to the ones from Source after the season ended. Hopefully those, and this new wheel from FI will get me where I want to be.

Good luck on the junker next season.
 
Have you looked at used sprint car tires? We have run them on the street some, they hook hard. Most of them have decent tread, they take them off when the edge is gone. We had a guy that gave us all the free ones we wanted. Just a thought on cheap tires.
 
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