So you plan to reuse you stock head bolts?? Man if it's a budget thing I will mail you a set of SHCS out of my stockpile in the shop... They've held 70psi without rings for a while on a .020 over gasket, so they have to at least be better then used stockers.
I'm getting into this head gasket job pretty deep, might as well pull the motor and reseal the dripping pan gasket and remove the lift pump push-rod that is floating around in the pan.
A friend up north was having cold weather starting issues and his block heater was burned out. I pulled it out of mine and sent it to him to help him out. I plan to get a fancy billet aluminum freeze plug for that one hole, it'll probably save a 1/4 pound of weight as well! LOL
I always cold start mine at home when nobody is around to see the plume in action. Hopefully Al Gore's cameras and satellites aren't in position to catch me! I'm out of carbon credits.
Not to redirect the forum here..... but Bigblue.. i was wondering on your forward drum if usinf the reaction plate was causing you any issues with the last clutch slipping off the splines. im using .070 koleen steels and .090 alto clutchs ive got 4 in the forward drum using the flipped reaction plate w proper clearance?? wondering whats your take on this..... BTW really cool build its awsome what youve done with that truck....just goes to show proper research placement of funds and enginuity beats big wallets.... great to see....
I'm pretty deep into the motor now, here's a few pictures of a 245K mile 12 valve Cummins motor that has had over 1500 ft lbs at the crank for the past few thousand miles.
Here's the small end of rod #4, this is the cylinder that had the most bore scuffing.
Piston Pin from cylinder #4:
Piston #4 pin bore:
Piston #4, mild roughness above the rings where it was scuffing the bore, looks good enough to be reused in the Junker Drag Truck.....
The pistons came out surprisingly clean, these have been wiped down with a paper towel, no solvents or hard scrubbing and they don't look too bad. I see no signs of lower piston skirt to wall contact on any of the 6 pistons.
Pistons #1 & #2
Pistons #3 & #4
Pistons #5 & #6
Lots of crosshatch still visible in all (6) bores.
I found the oil leak, I was hoping it was the rear main but had a feeling the cam gear was walking and that it was leaking from the rear oil galley plug at the back of the cam behind the engine adapter plate. My fear was confirmed the cam gear is in-fact walking up off the end of the cam
The cam gear was rubbing on the timing case cover as well due to it walking forward off the cam:
The crank is starting to shear the keeper pin on the front drive gear. I've heard of people adding a small tack weld or two to keep the gear and crank properly aligned. I probably need to investigate this procedure and weld the gear to the crank.
A bit of good news, all (7) of the main bearings look great and none of them show abnormal wear, just minor wear so no need to install new bearings. ***Note*** on these older motors with the 14mm main bolts, they require an odd-ball 23mm socket. I'm fairly well equipped with hand tools and I did not have the correct socket, however, a 15/16" 6 point socket could probably be substituted and made to work, my 12 point 15/16" was too loose for comfort.
It's definitely messing with the cam timing. It's not really affecting the injection timing since I reset it based off TDC measured at the piston and didn't use the cam alignment pin or any gear train reference for the pump timing.
oke:?
