Minor setback on one exhaust valve, it looks like the tip of the valve stem is separating. I had a spare stock valve so it just took a few extra minutes to grind, lap, and back cut a replacement used valve.
All (6) exhaust valves have a faint line in this area which leads me to believe the tip is a friction welded insert, probably hardened specifically for the rocker tip to wear against.
I've always used single valve springs in the past which are compatible with simple cheap valve spring compressor tools. To compress the dual valve spring setup, I opted to spend $45 and get the nice Tork Tek valve spring compressor tool. The model 030 designed for Haisley Machine locks and retainer worked perfectly for the Hamilton Cams dual valve spring setup. It's a complete tool setup that includes the allen wrench, all that's required to use this valve spring compressor is a common 15mm wrench or socket.
The first step is to install the Manley valve stem seals, these fit nice and snug and I used a 12mm 6 point socket as a driver to squarely install the seals.
The dual valve springs sit flush and the Tork Tek tool fits nicely between the springs.
Then the retainers are placed on top of the valve springs and the rest of the tool is installed over the stud and threaded down to compress the valve springs and install the locks.
These went pretty fast doing them two at a time, about 20 minutes later and all 12 valves were finished:
Next I cleaned up the head casting and rust at the the small coolant freeze plugs. It needed a good clean surface for the JB Weld to have good adhesion. This is a small bit of added protection to keep the freeze plugs from blowing out during a hard run down the drag strip.
Finally I moved back to the engine block to work on the piston ring gaps. I decided to install new rings in the motor. During tear down, I saved the original pistons and rings so I could measure the old clearance. I was surprised to find the old rings had about .025" - 0.26" end gap on the top ring and .018"-.020" on the second cast ring because it had very little blowby, especially for a motor with 240K+ miles. A couple of the cylinders showed signs of scoring from the rings growing too much and butting, so on this motor, I've decided to open up the ring gaps a little more since I plan to push this motor harder than the 700HP level previously attained on the stock motor. I'm also mindful that the non-intercooled pistons I plan to use have a lower top ring groove so it should shield the rings better from the high combustion temperatures. (I might be able to get by with 0.026-0.027" but better safe than sorry.)
I plan to open up the top ring gap to 0.030". The new stock rings are showing 0.021"-0.022" end gap so it wont take much to get the new rings where they need to be. I plan to run the second/lower cast rings at 0.024" end gap.
