95' Junker Drag Truck

Dang, how many hours are you going to have into that head without even toughing th valves?! Looks good though!
 
Dang, how many hours are you going to have into that head without even toughing th valves?! Looks good though!



I just went through the whole process on my daily driver since I broke all (6) exhaust flanges off the head at the track the other day.

It took me about 10 hours on the lathe to cut all (12) valves with fresh seat angles plus a half angle back-cut. Probably a 3 hour job this time around.

It took about 2 hours to lapp-in the valve seats to remove all my dings and knicks from porting and polishing.

It took an hour to install the valves and springs, retainers, keepers.

It took an hour to install all the misc sensors, intake plate, remove clean and reinstall thermostat housing, etc.

It took 6 hours to port the whole head and about 2 hours to clean up and polish a little bit.

= 20 hour job!!!!

I'm going more aggressive on the porting so it's going to take about 8-10 hours this time around. With the time I'll save on back cutting valves etc after having the lathe already setup, it's probably going to be a 20 hour job all said and done.
 
Will was rambling on about quad turbo's or something

took these spy photo's, AND! in one picture Ive captured 80% of the secret squirrel workings of the junker ;)

BEHOLD

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I assume the baby turbo is a stock Cummins turbo?




Blue this is a very nice build. Was a good read for the day. :Cheer:
 
Just read through and caught up with the engine build happening.
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing.
 
The Junker has been down long enough! It's time to get it back up and running; one good thing about months of rebuild/down time is you accumulate upgraded parts here and there to make the motor build better!

Today I worked on upgrading the valve springs. The previous set of springs were the common 60# marine valve springs, specifically Pacbrake brand available for just over $100.

Hamilton Cam's recently started selling 185# dual valve spring kits complete with lightweight retainers and 10* locks. I deemed it was time to upgrade the valve train upon discovery of several factory locks starting to wedge too deep into the factory retainers which could eventually lead to pull-through or even cracked and destroyed retainers.

Hamilton dual spring setup on the left, factory setup with 60# marine springs on the right:

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The upgraded 10* locks are massive compared to the stock locks and should hold up fine for any future RPM ranges this motor will see.

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The new retainers are much lighter in weight and lower profile than the stock setup:

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Although the locks are much larger and heavier than the stock Cummins parts, the new retainers are super light weight and the total weight of retainer plus locks is just 27 grams vs. stock retainer and locks at 44 grams.

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In order to fit the dual valve spring setup, smaller profile .500" x 5/16" valve seals have to be used. Hamilton provided a rental cutter made by Howard's Cams to cut down the valve spring inner guide/seal boss from .550" to .500".

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A regular cordless drill was up to the task of machining the inner spring guide/stem seal boss.

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Less than 30 seconds later the cut is complete. It's so easy, it's almost idiot-proof because the cutter follows the valve guide for perfect alignment.

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So few shavings, this project could almost be done in-frame:

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Stock seal on left, low profile Manley 24042 seal on right:

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Inner spring fits over the Manley seal, but not quite over the stock stem seal:

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Finally the finished product of dual valve spring setup vs. 60# marine setup:

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For those wondering, an upgraded cam is coming up in this build to take advantage of the ported head, cut pistons, and new dual valve spring setup.
 
Hense the reason I asked on these ones. Didn't know anyone offered a dual spring that used stock spring seats.
 
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