95' Junker Drag Truck

Track testing didn't work out, the old airstrip in St George was too slick and the rain wiped out the timing system.

Did get a couple of good burnouts without a water box...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbqJ4DE1S1U"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbqJ4DE1S1U[/ame]

Also got a couple of mediocre runs, probably all in the 12-13 second range due to traction issues well into the 100 MPH range.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_DRoQ41TPk"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_DRoQ41TPk[/ame]

The white Dmax is an 11.90 Super Diesel Truck, so might have ran low 12's or even a high 11 on this run, traction limited.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGgGzh7u6p4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGgGzh7u6p4[/ame]
 
I like how your truck runs! Pretty good power but not bad amount of smoke at full throttle. It might need some more pre-spooling tuning?

I'm predicting that with the new engine build plus the future upgrades to come (fueling from different pump, etc) and finally really hook then that D70 will explode.

Thank for so much inspires.
 
Burnouts without water, I'm impressed. My lag monster struggles to turn the tires unless I tap the bottle.
 
Big blue can you make a list of all the hard part upgrades that you added to the truck? If you could be specify
 
While it is only 86 pages, the couple hours it takes you to read it and absorb the info, is nothin compared to the time, research and effort put into the truck.
 
dvst8r said:
Or you could read this thread. They are all listed.
Click to expand...


Why would anyone do something so crazy. You only need to read the last 20 to find what he has done. It's listed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yea, it's pretty crazy Big Blue puts all this info in here, which takes crazy amounts of time. Then guys come here wanting him to list it out again, be specific, etc. want him to build it for ya too?
 
diesel_importer said:
Yea, it's pretty crazy Big Blue puts all this info in here, which takes crazy amounts of time. Then guys come here wanting him to list it out again, be specific, etc. want him to build it for ya too?
Click to expand...

Don't even start talking like that! I thought it was insane nobody used the google machine to figure out which programmer fits their stock 24v best but now we have guys that are too lazy to read the thread they are in! Building the truck for them is coming...
 
diesel_importer said:
Yea, it's pretty crazy Big Blue puts all this info in here, which takes crazy amounts of time. Then guys come here wanting him to list it out again, be specific, etc. want him to build it for ya too?
Click to expand...

Is that an option LOL i like eating Cheetos in my underwear while watching jerry.
 
zfaylor said:
Don't even start talking like that! I thought it was insane nobody used the google machine to figure out which programmer fits their stock 24v best but now we have guys that are too lazy to read the thread they are in! Building the truck for them is coming...
Click to expand...

I thought thats what us performance shops were for ?
 
In order to make the Junker legal to run sub 11.50 1/4 mile times, there are a few expensive upgrades required to meet NHRA rules to ultimately pass tech inspection.

At 10.99 & quicker, an SFI 18.1 rated harmonic dampener is required. ATI & Fluidampr are the two common options available for 12 valve Cummins B-series motors. So approximately $460 later, a new Fluidampr with sensor adapter kit arrived at my door. (Ouch that hits the racing budget!!!)

Fluidampr4_zps8e2c58a3.jpg


First step was to remove the stock dampener, pretty straight forward with (4) 15mm bolts to remove. It did help to hold the motor from spinning using a barring tool to hold the flexplate so the tight dampener bolts could be removed. In the past I've wedged a large flat screw driver into the flexplate ring gear or used a prop stick wedged between the ground and a notch in the stock dampener to prevent it from turning the motor while removing the bolts.

Fluidampr2_zpsf7b71c96.jpg


The stock dampener was in excellent shape, even after 245k miles. It measured about 8.25" across.
Fluidampr3_zpsa0895374.jpg


The SFI rated dampener is a little heavier and larger in diameter:

Fluidampr7_zps843db890.jpg


Fluidampr6_zps5ab50377.jpg


Here's the relocation bracket for the speed sensor/tachometer pick-up.
Fluidampr5_zps3d5ae2f8.jpg


Few comparison pictures:

Fluidampr8_zps328e1bd7.jpg


Fluidampr9_zpsece14780.jpg


In order to make the supplied relocation kit bolts work with my aftermarket billet aluminum front cover, I had to turn-down the shoulder diameter of the kit supplied bolt/stand-off. The bolt is pretty soft and could be turned down using a drill and a file or a small grinder. Since I own a cheap mini-lathe, I used the lathe.

Fluidampr10_zps421f6c15.jpg


Then install the kit supplied relocation bracket, install the kit supplied sensor extension wire harness, and finally install the new fluidampr. I torqued the bolts to 100 ft/lbs and used blue lock-tight on the original factory bolts. I did not drill and pin the crank at the two extra locations. My motor spends very little time above 4000 rpm simply because the injection pump doesn't fuel well above 3500 rpm and the truck doesn't make much horsepower in the 4000+ rpm range.

Fluidampr11_zpsc5ce814b.jpg


Fluidampr1_zps534eaeb1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Let us know if you feel a difference. Sounds like it is hit or miss if people even notice their fluidampner
 
Lost the head gasket!

After pressure testing the oil cooler, It appears that the combination of 30* of timing and stock head bolts was too much cylinder pressure to keep the head gasket in-tact. After making several passes up in St George at the old air strip, the radiator started to fill with oil. The oil remained un-mixed but the oil is at much higher pressure than the engine coolant.

The block is not rusty, it's just remnants of the copper coat from the original install a few months ago.

HeadGasket2_zps46d1ff64.jpg


The pistons look good with spray pattern hitting in the bowls with 30* of timing.

HeadGasket3_zpsdfc5eca9.jpg


HeadGasket4_zps9a95d18e.jpg


HeadGasket5_zps6dd8b03c.jpg


The factory fire rings in the head gasket look fine, this leads me to believe that the gasket failure is just the head lifting during peak cylinder pressure and then settling back down before it totally destroys the fire ring.

HeadGasket6_zps03cb39cc.jpg


Combustion gasses pierced through to this water jacket:
HeadGasket7_zpsbf2760b5.jpg


HeadGasket8_zps92f44454.jpg


This oil passage was also seeing combustion gasses:
HeadGasket9_zps1a962444.jpg


HeadGasket10_zpsfa2376b2.jpg


The oring imprints in the bottom of the fire rings look good, more evidence the head is not staying down.

HeadGasket11_zps9b894287.jpg


HeadGasket12_zps33b27522.jpg


So I picked up a set of used ARP 2000 studs. I'm not confident this will be a long term solution, but if it holds, I won't complain!!! If I could afford a set of better fasteners, I'd definitely give them a shot.

HeadGasket13_zps64208819.jpg


HeadGasket14_zpse36ec526.jpg


HeadGasket15_zps9c78706a.jpg


The ARP nuts are fairly slim and thin-walled, I can see why they occasionally split and fail.

HeadGasket1_zps1ff4a6e7.jpg
 
CorneliusRox said:
Let us know if you feel a difference. Sounds like it is hit or miss if people even notice their fluidampner
Click to expand...

The fluid dampener went in before those videos posted above from St George airstrip. Lots of high rpm sound clips in the videos.

I honestly didn't perceive a noticeable difference. This could mean my home-brew balance job was perfect, or that my particular combination wasn't experiencing harsh harmonic vibrations.


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbqJ4DE1S1U"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbqJ4DE1S1U[/ame]
 
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