commonrailz
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Second that^^^
95' Junker Drag Truck
- Thread starter Big Blue24
- Start date
Big Blue24
Comp Diesel Sponsor
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Well, I replaced the head gasket with a .020" oversize, bolted everything back together, and made a few upgrades.
First I exchanged the turbine wheel on the HE351cw to the HX40 wheel with the larger dimensions.
I also upsized the injectors from 5x.018" to 5x.025" with the same 145* VCO style nozzle with similar needle work.
Also visible are the ARP 2000 studs that I used this go around in lieu of the head bolts. These were purchased used for a large discount over the $400+ original price. I'm not confident they will be enough if the headbolts were not enough last go around, but for the price I paid, they are worth a shot.
I also made a few changes inside the transmission to increase line pressure and raise the shift points via governor weight mods. No pictures of this work, basically put the brass weights in the lathe and started shaving them down.
First I exchanged the turbine wheel on the HE351cw to the HX40 wheel with the larger dimensions.
I also upsized the injectors from 5x.018" to 5x.025" with the same 145* VCO style nozzle with similar needle work.
Also visible are the ARP 2000 studs that I used this go around in lieu of the head bolts. These were purchased used for a large discount over the $400+ original price. I'm not confident they will be enough if the headbolts were not enough last go around, but for the price I paid, they are worth a shot.
I also made a few changes inside the transmission to increase line pressure and raise the shift points via governor weight mods. No pictures of this work, basically put the brass weights in the lathe and started shaving them down.
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Big Blue24
Comp Diesel Sponsor
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I hit up the street legal drags at Las Vegas Motor Speedway this past friday night with disappointing results.
First off, with zero track prep and tons of street tire passes, traction was nowhere to be found, even with the 29.50 x 11.50 slicks. It spun really bad on both passes and the poor 1.88 and 1.86 second 60' times prove the slick conditions.
Secondly, the wastegate reference line blew off on both passes thereby keeping the wastegate closed and overspeeding the small turbo and underspooling the bigger HT4B. When I checked the gauges, I recall 85psi boost and 40psi from the HT4B. On the prior 10 second passes, the HT4B was pushing 65psi. The motor was also popping above 2800 rpm like it was running out of fuel with the bigger injectors. To make matters worse, I wasn't shifting properly and 1-2 was happening around 2400 rpm vs 3000-3100 prior and 2-3 shift was way high up near 3800 rpm whereas before it was 3100-3200 rpm.
All of these factors combined to make two despicable 12 second passes... Yuck! I hate going backward in performance. For those wondering, I broke several of my own rules by modifying too many things at once so I don't really know if any of the upgrades were beneficial and simply overshadowed by the other problems: shift points, wastegate reference line.
So from here, I plan to go back to the smaller injectors just to remove that variable. If it's still down on power, the turbo mod and oversized gasket are the only two areas to blame and the oversized gasket is staying!
First off, with zero track prep and tons of street tire passes, traction was nowhere to be found, even with the 29.50 x 11.50 slicks. It spun really bad on both passes and the poor 1.88 and 1.86 second 60' times prove the slick conditions.
Secondly, the wastegate reference line blew off on both passes thereby keeping the wastegate closed and overspeeding the small turbo and underspooling the bigger HT4B. When I checked the gauges, I recall 85psi boost and 40psi from the HT4B. On the prior 10 second passes, the HT4B was pushing 65psi. The motor was also popping above 2800 rpm like it was running out of fuel with the bigger injectors. To make matters worse, I wasn't shifting properly and 1-2 was happening around 2400 rpm vs 3000-3100 prior and 2-3 shift was way high up near 3800 rpm whereas before it was 3100-3200 rpm.
All of these factors combined to make two despicable 12 second passes... Yuck! I hate going backward in performance. For those wondering, I broke several of my own rules by modifying too many things at once so I don't really know if any of the upgrades were beneficial and simply overshadowed by the other problems: shift points, wastegate reference line.
So from here, I plan to go back to the smaller injectors just to remove that variable. If it's still down on power, the turbo mod and oversized gasket are the only two areas to blame and the oversized gasket is staying!
CorneliusRox
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Time got a second Holley Black knockoff pump run in parallel!
I'm sure being on the street took you back a bit too. And it doesn't get much easier than fixing a reference line that blew off.
When's the next event?
I'm sure being on the street took you back a bit too. And it doesn't get much easier than fixing a reference line that blew off.
When's the next event?
Big Blue24
Comp Diesel Sponsor
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Roll Cage Installation:
The time has arrived to increase the safety equipment in the Junker Drag Truck.
First step was to remove the back window, it didn't want to come out whole and from the pictures, it's clear it shattered. I unfortunately lost those nice Diesel Performance Converters decals in the process.
I started using the main hoop to layout my cuts in the floor boards.
I made crude cuts using a 4-1/2" grinder with metal cut-off wheel, it's not pretty but it's fast and got the job done.
I used a ratchet strap to hold the main hoop up while tack welding the outriggers to the frame below the cab.
The main hoop came down through the cab reinforcing near the cab mounts. Then I added 2"x3" outriggers.
With the main hoop tacked in-place, I started removing the dash to make room for the front pillar uprights. Since this is now a 95% dedicated race vehicle, the dash will not be re-installed and therefore it was removed as quickly as possible using the crow bar and sledge hammer method:
After cutting the steel supports free from the driver's side:
Next week will include more pictures as the roll cage installation progresses to completion.
The time has arrived to increase the safety equipment in the Junker Drag Truck.
First step was to remove the back window, it didn't want to come out whole and from the pictures, it's clear it shattered. I unfortunately lost those nice Diesel Performance Converters decals in the process.
I started using the main hoop to layout my cuts in the floor boards.
I made crude cuts using a 4-1/2" grinder with metal cut-off wheel, it's not pretty but it's fast and got the job done.
I used a ratchet strap to hold the main hoop up while tack welding the outriggers to the frame below the cab.
The main hoop came down through the cab reinforcing near the cab mounts. Then I added 2"x3" outriggers.
With the main hoop tacked in-place, I started removing the dash to make room for the front pillar uprights. Since this is now a 95% dedicated race vehicle, the dash will not be re-installed and therefore it was removed as quickly as possible using the crow bar and sledge hammer method:
After cutting the steel supports free from the driver's side:
Next week will include more pictures as the roll cage installation progresses to completion.
Last edited:
CorneliusRox
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Are you going to swap out the steering wheel? It's the only thing that looks out of place now!
little6cylinder
Everything is "fixable"
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Looking good man. What's the wall thickness on those outriggers? They look a little thin. I ran the cage pipe all the way through the outrigger so you've got more area to weld. It drastically improves the strength. Especially on thin tubing.
CorneliusRox
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Looking good man. What's the wall thickness on those outriggers? They look a little thin. I ran the cage pipe all the way through the outrigger so you've got more area to weld. It drastically improves the strength. Especially on thin tubing.
Psh, shotty welds. I wouldn't trust a word you said!
jk jk and you should update your sig with times!
little6cylinder
Everything is "fixable"
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My times are slow. It just sits there and looks good. :hehe:
But really if you haven't welded it yet I'd build the outriggers a little different. Having the bar go all the way through the outrigger makes it much stronger and building an outrigger like mine it's easier to weld the tops. Again there is more surface area to weld to the frame too.
ctd12valve95
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- Aug 9, 2010
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Did you bend the cage, or using a pre bent cage from s&w
estrada5.9
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Good taste in music.
Thanks for the updates.
Thanks for the updates.
Big Blue24
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I appreciate the ideas, it's a work in progress and I won't trust anything with my life that I don't feel is safe.
It's a pre-bend cage from Broke Dick Racing, now I believe they go by the name Rhodes Racing or something like that. This cage was a birthday present from a couple years back, it's definitely easier to buy a kit than build one from scratch, especially for a first-time cage install.
The outriggers are 1/8" wall 2"x3" rectangular tube steel. The top of the outriggers will not be welded, only the sides and the bottom. I will add gussets from the factory frame outriggers/body mounts, down to my added roll cage outriggers. This kit also came with extra bar to add sill bars to tie the main hoop at the outriggers into the front pillar bars. I haven't decided exactly how everything will end up brace/gusset wise but I'll make it SAFE!
Big Blue24
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Tonight the halo was cut to fit and tacked in place. I had to use a ratchet strap to shrink it down from the as shipped 52" wide outside measurement to the required 50" wide measurement to get the halo up high on the main hoop where it belongs. I'm still a fairy inexperienced fabricator so it takes a while to get everything fitted and notched correctly using a hand grinder.
Fit it up near the windshield to roof transition, this seems like the best location to make the pillar bars work. If I was custom bending a cage, I'd stop the halo a few inches rearward so it can be tucked up higher in the roof area. I'm average height and there is 4" from my head to the halo when seated in factory driver's seat.
Fit it up near the windshield to roof transition, this seems like the best location to make the pillar bars work. If I was custom bending a cage, I'd stop the halo a few inches rearward so it can be tucked up higher in the roof area. I'm average height and there is 4" from my head to the halo when seated in factory driver's seat.
PSUCE
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- Sep 12, 2006
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- 468
Something I found to make it easier to fab is to use construction paper. Here is what I do:
1. Find a scrap piece of cage tubing with a clean 90 degree end cut.
2. Wrap with about a 6" or so piece of construction paper so paper overlaps at least twice. Using PVC as that is what I had laying closest to my desk.
3. Slide paper so it hangs out over end of tubing.
4. Using the construction paper, mark your notch on that piece of paper.
5. Trim the paper until it fits the notch perfect.
6. Slide the paper onto the cage piece that needs notched and mark the notch.
For clarity:
7. Cut the notch to the mark and presto! Takes some of the guessing and "awe hell I'll fill it with weld" from the fab.
1. Find a scrap piece of cage tubing with a clean 90 degree end cut.
2. Wrap with about a 6" or so piece of construction paper so paper overlaps at least twice. Using PVC as that is what I had laying closest to my desk.
3. Slide paper so it hangs out over end of tubing.
4. Using the construction paper, mark your notch on that piece of paper.
5. Trim the paper until it fits the notch perfect.
6. Slide the paper onto the cage piece that needs notched and mark the notch.
For clarity:
7. Cut the notch to the mark and presto! Takes some of the guessing and "awe hell I'll fill it with weld" from the fab.
whitetrash21
der sparky
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- May 10, 2009
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Very cool....good idea