additional crankcase ventilation

I have a couple extra's if you need one. Send me an address and pay whatever it costs(probably $5 or so) to ship and I'll send you one.

that would be great. pm me your paypal.
the evac on the common rail looks like a nice setup. for my daily driver I think another breather or 2would be perfect
 
So are there any wet sump kits one could put on a basic street truck?
if your going to go to the trouble of a wet sump, a oil pan, mandrel to drive the pump, and pump mount , you 90% of the way to a dry sump. Look at the pan in the picture ,
 
wow you guys are catching on to a smog pump, I use those 15 years ago on my comp motors . and the secret is you can't get enough pump on a diesel as full boost, but at part throttle it might pull more the a few inches of vacuum. as long as you below 10 inches you will not hurt anything. Any thing more then 15 inches and you will see a big drop in oil pressure , and will need a vacuum breaker Moroso makes a cool pump, and the late GM and for products have electrical pumps.

Wrong - no smog pump here, although they're better than nothing for some apps. Old news to use one for crankcase evac...

I wouldn't bother running less than 10" of vacuum, unless that's all your air pump can make. 12" is good for street engines, so more oil is misted into the vanes for lubrication, but 15" is about the limit for a wet sump... dry sumps can obviously go higher - like 20". In any case, too much vacuum can pull oil right off the wristpins. :badidea:

The pump we use in our kits is spec'd just for turbodiesels - it outperforms any other available, excepting Star Machine's & the McClintic Pro Mod - we overlooked the best from Moroso, Aero Space, Mr. Gasket, etc. because they didn't have the correct CFM/RPM profile (not to mention their streetability).

The system pulls from both the block & valve cover, and of course it has an adjustable vacuum breaker (that pump will suck the white off of rice at 4K rpm!)
My favorite part of the crankcase evac is how well it stops oil leaks... :Cheer:

I've used both the pictured Ford pump and the electric GM pump

It isn't a Ford pump.

Hey, more pics. That motor is NICE looking

Thanks - I'll get some more after we finish plumbing all 12 water/meth nozzles.
 
Wrong - no smog pump here, although they're better than nothing for some apps. Old news to use one for crankcase evac...

I wouldn't bother running less than 10" of vacuum, unless that's all your air pump can make. 12" is good for street engines, so more oil is misted into the vanes for lubrication, but 15" is about the limit for a wet sump... dry sumps can obviously go higher - like 20". In any case, too much vacuum can pull oil right off the wristpins. :badidea:

The pump we use in our kits is spec'd just for turbodiesels - it outperforms any other available, excepting Star Machine's & the McClintic Pro Mod - we overlooked the best from Moroso, Aero Space, Mr. Gasket, etc. because they didn't have the correct CFM/RPM profile (not to mention their streetability).

The system pulls from both the block & valve cover, and of course it has an adjustable vacuum breaker (that pump will suck the white off of rice at 4K rpm!)
My favorite part of the crankcase evac is how well it stops oil leaks... :Cheer:



It isn't a Ford pump.



Thanks - I'll get some more after we finish plumbing all 12 water/meth nozzles.

that’s a nipindinso smog pump , and your making this to complicated, but you not going to get 10 inches at boost , with out reversing the seals and do a lot more to the gaskets .
I have been using vacuum pumps for over 15 years , the first one I use was on our D/EA it was a similar pump to the one you have there , I had to machine the hole in the pump. I use to go and scrounge the wrecking yard for pumps off just like that one off of Mazda’s .

I know the McClintics very well, and starting using their pump when it first came out . In fact Jef drove my car at Dallas when I couldn’t get off from the fire station , and needed the car at the race.
 
Still wrong... maybe it's just too complicated for you.

Amazing how you claim to know so much about other folks' rides, but get all bowed up and hurl accusations when your stories about what you "worked on" are questioned.

BTW - my parts are good for at least 10" whenever needed... :kick:
come on thats a smog pump, same one I used 15 years ago , and if you can pull 10 inches , your bending the laws of reality , I had a 5 stage pump on the little truck, and it might get 2 inches .
show up at
Dr Perfromance and put you pump on the dyno, I'll show you the real world,
 
Thanks!

As far as this thread's topic, positive crankcase venting (evacuation) is a "free" way to increase an engine's efficiency & power production. It promotes better ring seal and reduces intake charge dilution (among other benefits). A good rule of thumb is to figure 5% HP increase from 10" of vacuum in the crankcase of an NA mill.

Obviously, the improvement to a forced-induction high-compression diesel would be even greater... but it's harder to pull vacuum with all the blowby - that's why a larger CFM, higher vacuum pump has to be used. Even an old-school pan evacuation system with check valves to the high-velocity, low-pressure part of the exhaust tract can help.
 
All right so guys help me out here because I was never a gas motor guy, with pulling a partial-vac on the crankcase do you have to use special rings I.E low tension rings.
 
All right so guys help me out here because I was never a gas motor guy, with pulling a partial-vac on the crankcase do you have to use special rings I.E low tension rings.

You don't have to use reduced tension rings to use a vacuum pump, but this will allow you to .

I do a ring package that reduces tension , and is noticeable in that you can rotate the engine with a wrench and not a brake over bar when your assembling the long block.
The reduction in drag is worth a lot of power .

I have extensive time on the dyno with gas engines developing vacuum systems , and there is a lot to it , IE reversing seals , better gaskets , but I will tell you that at full boost , no vacuum pump will develop 10 inches if the motor is making power ,
I data log every thing , and the Preditor Truck with 5 stages of suctiong from a Pro Stock Style pump, could only develop 1 to 3 inches of vacuum. Now if you free wheel the truck at zero load , you not testing the ability of a pump.

Of any that pump picture is a Nipindinso Smog pump, I am digging out a picture of that exact pump on my dragster 10 years ago, I still have the pump.
 
I use an autozone breather

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Comp did you ever try anything from the industrial side of things. I have a few things laying around from working on air compressors and vac pumps and it got a few wheels spinning. With low tension rings does an engine diesel or gas have a measurable amount of blow by/and or oil control at an idle or is the pump setup to draw vac at an idle as well. I suppose you can tune it be the pulley sizes???
 
Cummins used to have a crankcase evac system for marine diesels.
 
VACUUM pumps are really simple, there is no magical , or mystical diesel sizes pump, its just a vacuum pump. Or in most cases a smog pump . If anyone is telling you they are doing a special pump that is calibrated / sized to a particular diesel, they are just blowing smoke , its just to simple.



I have been racing for 25 years and of that time 20 or it was in competition eliminator , this class is like some of the people in diesel very ingunitive.

I’ve done about all I could with vacuum pump, and dry sumps , to find vacuum. I use to use a high powered shop vac with 30 feet of PVC to hook up to the engine on the dyno , and find vacuum leaks. I’ve even had new aluminum rods come thru the block , because of to much vacuum . So I conceder myself an expert on vacuum pumps ,and different smog pumps , I have scoured the wrecking yards , bringing back a wheel barrow load of different kinds to test.



If you get the pan back to zero on a Cummins at full boost , your doing really good, and a smog pump will not get it done , plus these smog pumps are good for about 30 runs , and then pop bang , especially the nipindinzo one pictures , so if you going to run one on the street , carry a few spares
 
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