additional crankcase ventilation

You're spelling leaves very much to be desired. I think you get so excited to spout off all of "your" amazing accomplishments that your fingers run rampant over the keyboard. I hardly finish your posts because I get confused. Not with the subject, but with the words you choose to demolish.
 
So I conceder myself an expert on vacuum pumps ,and different smog pumps , I have scoured the wrecking yards , bringing back a wheel barrow load of different kinds to test.

Dude, you consider yourself an expert on everything...one thing I've found about most "experts," is that they don't consider themselves as such. They just do what is needed, and STFU, without telling you about how good they are.

But most will comment when asked about their field.


BTW, $20,000 on a dragster...are you serious? Oh Wow, I wish I could have a dragster for a measly 20 grand. I'm over that in my 1/2 ton and not even halfway done yet.




So it's not a complete hijack, I have a simple breather system on my 12v from an Industrial engine. I've not found anything I like for a 24v, other than the CR setup. Gasser Breathers blow oil all over the place...but I do like the idea of a vacuum pump. Might have to look into that down the road for the 1/2 ton engine!
Chris
 
I think Comp is very accomplished in sucking abilities, judging from his self proclaimed experience.
 
How much vacuum could be created by running a hose to the air inlet of the turbo? like a pvc setup on a gas?
 
What about running the breather hose over into the down pipe and using the exhaust to pull the vapors out like performance gassers do? I'm guessing that the drive pressure might affect the outcome but IDK. I had a friend that did that on his pulling truck, and he said it worked great. But IDK.
 
So how many CFM of suckage are we talking about here, to actually make a difference?

Belt driven only or would a big electric unit suffice?
 
Okay...I almost wore my broom out, but I did my best to clean this thread up a bit....For COMP vs Mr. Robinson...See the thread in the staging lanes..

For crankcase venting talk, we'll discuss that in this thread..
 
What about running the breather hose over into the down pipe and using the exhaust to pull the vapors out like performance gassers do? I'm guessing that the drive pressure might affect the outcome but IDK. I had a friend that did that on his pulling truck, and he said it worked great. But IDK.

I actually found a pic of this today. someone had the old style e-vac in the downpipe and a barbed breather on the side of the valve cover.
form y particular application Im only looking for smoe aditional venting, with high boost I believe that the one stock breather may not be enough. I dont want to vac it down just give it more room to breath. I think with twins it owuld be hard to plumb the e-vac setup, well maybe not hard just kind of goofy to get to the downpipe. I may just add another push in breather with a nipple on it and run a hose down with my original one under the truck
 
I'm using an $85 GM electric vacumm pump on a boost switch so it only runs under load.

Never put a guage on it - dont care - anything to help is better than nothing that we have now

Dont confuse all out performance needs for a 7-10 second run with our everyday street and pull trucks

does it make a difference - you bet
 
hey,i put 2 breathers in my valve cover.what a mess.crap all over engine.smells good in the hot summer.get 2 a&n fittings have them welded in .drill holes in valve cover put 90*elbo run them off to the side .braded steel lines down the side .i will send pics when i can.they call me smelly diesel dually.....for now?
 
What about running the breather hose over into the down pipe and using the exhaust to pull the vapors out like performance gassers do? I'm guessing that the drive pressure might affect the outcome but IDK. I had a friend that did that on his pulling truck, and he said it worked great. But IDK.


I've been wondering the same thing...I pretty much assumed that since you don't hear about it, it's been tried and failed. Also concered about the soot in the exhaust (would the greater density have a negative effect on the suction required to pull a vacuum out of the crankcase).

I dont know, just thinking out loud.
 
I wonder if the 4 vane Moroso vacuum pump, has enough cfm for a built CR engine?

It could only help, since it still pumps 80% of what ours does - I think you can get them from Summit for ~ 6 bills.
Don't think it's for street use, though (lubrication).

What about running the breather hose over into the down pipe and using the exhaust to pull the vapors out like performance gassers do? I'm guessing that the drive pressure might affect the outcome but IDK. I had a friend that did that on his pulling truck, and he said it worked great. But IDK.

As I posted earlier, it's better than nothing.... just use check valves and don't put the bungs too close to the exhaust housing.

So how many CFM of suckage are we talking about here, to actually make a difference?

Belt driven only or would a big electric unit suffice?

One of the manufacturers at SEMA last year told me they were bringing a 12Vdc crankcase evacuation pump to market in December (08), but they couldn't give us any specs like CFM or price - so we went mechanical drive with our kit.

I think with twins it owuld be hard to plumb the e-vac setup, well maybe not hard just kind of goofy to get to the downpipe.

Packaging is tight, but we put one on a common rail with twin turbos, twin CP3s and a liquid/air intercooler.

Just to simplify things.

Who has a street vacuum pump kit?

We do.
 
I've been wondering the same thing...I pretty much assumed that since you don't hear about it, it's been tried and failed. Also concered about the soot in the exhaust (would the greater density have a negative effect on the suction required to pull a vacuum out of the crankcase).

I dont know, just thinking out loud.

As long as the low-pressure high-velocity exhaust (Bernoulli's principle) is connected to the pressurized crankcase (from blowby), suckage is inevitable.

Of course, the internal engine air volume must be otherwise sealed from ambient - leaks compromise the system's effectiveness.
 
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